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Battery Tender info request

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Old 09-29-2009, 06:59 AM   #21
badass84gt
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I have the battery tender jr and when I store the car I bring the batteries into the basement on plastic milk crates so they stay in a climate controlled area so the cold doesnt get to them.
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:11 PM   #22
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I've used Battery tenders also, and it always seems that I get longer life out of a battery when I use one.

Also, I wouldn't down on the OE batteries too badly... I just got 6+ hard years out of the one in my Wifes mountaineer.
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT Bob View Post
I've used Battery tenders also, and it always seems that I get longer life out of a battery when I use one....
Your (and others) response is what I was looking for. TY

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Originally Posted by GT Bob View Post
...Also, I wouldn't down on the OE batteries too badly... I just got 6+ hard years out of the one in my Wifes mountaineer.
I'm not trashing ALL of the Motorcraft OE batteries. But considering the # of reports of issues on the S197's, a larger than normal percentage seem to die prematurely. I'd LOVE to have been able to get all of the s/n's from those OE batteries that have died just to see if it was a specific lot or from a specific factory. Must be the engineer in me.
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Old 09-29-2009, 05:24 PM   #24
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Quote:
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What is this 1.3 to 1.5 amps of parasitic draw you keep posting time after time after time? The parasitic draw should not exceed 50 milliamperes.
The $500 Fluke meter dont lie.
And I have a basic stripped down V6 and the parasitic draw is 1.3 - 1.5 amps
doors closed ignition off all accessories off. Just sitting there. Its amazing
these bayyeries last any time at all just sitting.
Should not and does are two different things.
Get the old DMM out and check it yourselves...
I will be sure and get a picture next time I
do any battery disconnecting and check it then for ya'll nay sayers..
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:42 PM   #25
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1.3 -1.5 amps DOES sound high but I've come to trust 157db's info ('til proven otherwise). If that IS the case, then the Battery Tender Jr, with it's 0.75 A output, would STILL allow the battery to slowly discharge. Even the Battery Tender Plus is only rated for 1.25A out. I may have to do a little experimenting of my own...
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:35 PM   #26
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Well, db157, are you letting everything wind down for at least 40 minutes before you take the current reading? I could believe a reading of 1.5 amps before everything goes to sleep, but not for a long period of time.

The workshop manual says no more than 50 milliamperes of parasitic draw. The dealer tested mine, and reported that my car draws 40 milliamperes. There is a TSB that says typical is 20-30 milliamperes.

If you have a 60 Ah battery, and a parasitic draw of 1.5 amps, then wouldn't the battery would be stone cold dead in 40 hours if the car were parked?

Are you doing the test as specified on page 414-00-16 of the 2007 workshop manual?
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:49 PM   #27
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good point Art161. all fords since 2004 have a memory timer in the PCM that does a 10 minute countdown to kill accessory power and lights.

if you were to do a check during that timer...then I can very well see the power draws you are talking about.


also, how much power does that "Anti-Theft" thingy in the dome light pull?
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Old 09-30-2009, 01:05 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke View Post
1.3 -1.5 amps DOES sound high but I've come to trust 157db's info ('til proven otherwise). If that IS the case, then the Battery Tender Jr, with it's 0.75 A output, would STILL allow the battery to slowly discharge. Even the Battery Tender Plus is only rated for 1.25A out. I may have to do a little experimenting of my own...
Get the battery tender plus...you wont regret it!
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:44 AM   #29
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I went with the CTEK.
http://www.jegs.com/i/CTEK/181/56-158/10002/-1

Know someone who had one of those battery tender jr things and it eventually killed the battery on his Harley...
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:52 AM   #30
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I use one unit for all the different batteries I have. It works great.
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:00 AM   #31
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Funny I just threw one on my truck last night, because it sits for weeks without being driven. I have the Battery Tender Jr. so we will see how well it works. Checked it out when I got home this morning the the indicator light is still red so apparently it is still charging. I am curious to see how long before the green charge light comes on. I have heard nothing but good things about them.
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:05 AM   #32
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Funny I just threw one on my truck last night, because it sits for weeks without being driven. I have the Battery Tender Jr. so we will see how well it works. Checked it out when I got home this morning the the indicator light is still red so apparently it is still charging. I am curious to see how long before the green charge light comes on. I have heard nothing but good things about them.
When I first got mine hooked up it was right after my battery had been drained from sitting. It took quite some time to change from red to green, maybe even a day or two if I remember correctly. If it's hooked up correctly and you are not getting the blinking red then give it some time, should go green soon.
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Old 09-30-2009, 03:00 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art161 View Post
Well, db157, are you letting everything wind down for at least 40 minutes before you take the current reading? I could believe a reading of 1.5 amps before everything goes to sleep, but not for a long period of time.

The workshop manual says no more than 50 milliamperes of parasitic draw. The dealer tested mine, and reported that my car draws 40 milliamperes. There is a TSB that says typical is 20-30 milliamperes.

If you have a 60 Ah battery, and a parasitic draw of 1.5 amps, then wouldn't the battery would be stone cold dead in 40 hours if the car were parked?

Are you doing the test as specified on page 414-00-16 of the 2007 workshop manual?
Oh yea, waiting the proper time
Have printed workshop manual and follow it like the bible.
These S197s take special procedure to test things
unlike vehicles of yesteryear.
I let the stang sit for the proper time.
I observed the draw and battery voltage for more than 24 hours
to collect data for my custom charger logic/voltage setpoints.
I have the charge leads and seperate voltage sense leads
for the control circuitry unlike the 'battery tenders' who can
only guess battery voltage over the same two wires carring
the charging current. Bad design.

If and when my alternator looses a diode or two, I will have to
get Oscope pics of what that looks like as well.
Internal diagnosis of the alternator on the vehicle....
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:15 PM   #34
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I just purchased a Battery Tender Plus for use on my car over the winter storage months. I will be leaving the battery connected and in the car through this time. Could someone please tell me which post of the battery is grounded so I can properly hook up the tender (1 clamp to battery post, one clamp to chassis). I tired looking for an answer but couldnt find what I was looking for. Thanks!
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Old 11-27-2012, 07:19 PM   #35
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... Could someone please tell me which post of the battery is grounded so I can properly hook up the tender (1 clamp to battery post, one clamp to chassis). I tired looking for an answer but couldnt find what I was looking for. Thanks!
Really???

The Battery Tender comes with alligator clamps plus ring lugs; the latter for direct, permanent connection to the battery. If you're not using the latter, then just go ahead and use the alligator clamps on the battery terminals. And black is negative, red is positive. If you're color blind, ask for help.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:06 PM   #36
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Thanks for the clarification there. The instructions for the tender were a little confusing when explaining the difference between charging with the battery in the vehicle and when you pull it to charge. Just wanted to make sure before I went and fubar'd something up. It sure is easier to ask a stupid question than have to make a stupid repair. All is well now though!
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:15 PM   #37
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So Nuke... Do you still need a tender?
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:25 AM   #38
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What is this 1.3 to 1.5 amps of parasitic draw you keep posting time after time after time? The parasitic draw should not exceed 50 milliamperes.
This is when the sheitter 500 goes berserk
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:25 AM
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