Rear differential leak
#21
OK, just got a nice 1/2 cachet wrench with a rubber grip from the Auto-Zone, waaaay overpriced, and the 1/2 to 3/8 adapter, and there was indeed the red locktite on the plug, but I was able to turn it allright, and surely it was still full of lube inside... I guess I will check every 10000 or a month... Its just that I am going on a 6000 miles road-trip from East Coast to the West Coast, going from PA to CA. Death Valley, Las Vegas, Utah and sh*t like that so I don't wanna have problems somewhere in the middle of nowhere... Hope it holds...
#24
Hello pHiLthy5.0,
My name is Deysha from Ford Customer Service. Has this issue been resolved for you? If not, message me with your VIN, mileage, contact info, and dealer so I can escalate this for you.
Deysha
My name is Deysha from Ford Customer Service. Has this issue been resolved for you? If not, message me with your VIN, mileage, contact info, and dealer so I can escalate this for you.
Deysha
#25
i notice the underside of my differential housing is wet and i also notice fluid that drips on the driveway whenever i park it on a slope with the nose lower than the rear.. it doesnt so it any other time... whats the damage hopefully nothing to bad.
#27
#28
My dealer had fixed the issue, it wasn't very expensive, something like 250+ dollars, but... They charged me for the full capacity synthetic oil, while they told me to have the oil changed would cost me 100$ plus oil. So I assumed they didn't change the oil actually, and I had been topping it off with about a quart of semisynthetic without adding a friction modifier. So eventually a chatter developed, and I proceeded to change the oil myself, and added some cheap a&& auto zone ford spec friction mod, about 50% more than required but I still get quite a noticeable chatter from the rear end. Is this normal? Should I add even more? Get the dealer stuff? The leak is gone though...
#29
Not a big deal for a pinion seal to leak. It's just a seal. Seals go bad. They can get nicked, etc. It's a $6 part. Replacing them ain't tough (it's the only think I've had to do that wasn't just routine maint)..
If you don't have a lift, it'd be a major PITA. Someone on this tread stated you have to replace the crush sleeve. Don't attempt to do this at all as it sets the pinion depth. Simply scribe a line on the pinion shaft and the nut... after replacing the seal, just tighten it back up to the line you scribed (you'll know when you're there as you'll feel it when you bottom out against the sleeve).
You don't have to drain the pumpkin to do this, just replace what you loose while the pinion seal is out. If you drain the pumpkin, you'll spend about $75 on Mobil 1. Don't forget the limited slip additive.
If you don't have a lift, it'd be a major PITA. Someone on this tread stated you have to replace the crush sleeve. Don't attempt to do this at all as it sets the pinion depth. Simply scribe a line on the pinion shaft and the nut... after replacing the seal, just tighten it back up to the line you scribed (you'll know when you're there as you'll feel it when you bottom out against the sleeve).
You don't have to drain the pumpkin to do this, just replace what you loose while the pinion seal is out. If you drain the pumpkin, you'll spend about $75 on Mobil 1. Don't forget the limited slip additive.
#30
So eventually a chatter developed, and I proceeded to change the oil myself, and added some cheap a&& auto zone ford spec friction mod, about 50% more than required but I still get quite a noticeable chatter from the rear end. Is this normal? Should I add even more? Get the dealer stuff? The leak is gone though...
Motorcraft fluids are specially formulated for the best performance, and I've heard quite a few people say it reduced the chatter in their Mustangs. Give it a try.
~Natasha