Car is real crap right now....
#11
#12
As for the car dying on me in the streets, turns out my gt500 power wire to the battery was crimped in a spot and when the car hits a hard pump, it would cause the power to shut off to the fuel pump and the car would die. I was lucky this never happened at WOT!!!
TURBO 2.8 :
I diidnt change anything with the gt500 fuel pump i bought. I just plugged it right up so im not sure what gauage wiring is used but no independent relay was used.[/QUOTE]
when you mentioned the car dying , and that you changed the fuel pump , I was thinking it was somewhere in your wiring . this is a helpful article from VMP tuning , if you go to VMP's home page . there are wiring diagrams . just look to the right of page and click on VMP tuning form, click on the how to section . then click fuel pump wiring up grade
Justin@VMP
Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Orlando/Daytona, FL
Posts: 861
Default Fuel Pump Wiring Upgarde for 05+ Mustangs
Upgrading the wire powering the FPDM (Fuel Pump Drive Module) will result in ~10% drop in duty cycle. The factory wire is small gauge and has to run through a few relays and the inertia switch, this results in a voltage drop by the time it gets to the FPDM in the trunk. The wiring from the FPDM to the pump can be upgraded as well, but just running a larger wire to the FPDM will result in good gains.
For single pumps I recomend a 10 or 12ga wire, for dual pumps I recomend an 8 or 10 ga wire. You will need a fuse holder with 30amp fuse, ~15' of wire, a relay with socket, and a butt connector.
Run a fused circuit from the battery. You can hook it up to the side of the battery, run it under the battery, into the fenderwell (remove the wheel and fender liner), in the back of the fenderwell there is a rubber grommet going through the firewall into the passenger footwell area. You can then run the wire behind the kick panel, under the door sill, under the back seat, into the trunk, and to the back of the spare tire well.
Use a standard 4/5pin automotive style relay. The center pin is not used. The two side pins, 85 and 86, are for the relay coil, they trigger the relay when ground and +12v is applied. Run one of them to ground, the other one will be hooked up to the white wire going into the FPDM, coming from the harness. We will use the factory FPDM power signal to trigger the relay. 30 is the input for the relay, connector your heavy gauge wire to this pin. 87 is the output for the relay, connect this to the white wire going into the FPDM.
__________________
Justin Starkey - VMP Tuning - Ford & GM Tuning
Mobile DynoJet 224xLC Load Control
Justin@VMPTuning.com 321-206-9369 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 321-206-9369 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
TURBO 2.8 :
I diidnt change anything with the gt500 fuel pump i bought. I just plugged it right up so im not sure what gauage wiring is used but no independent relay was used.[/QUOTE]
when you mentioned the car dying , and that you changed the fuel pump , I was thinking it was somewhere in your wiring . this is a helpful article from VMP tuning , if you go to VMP's home page . there are wiring diagrams . just look to the right of page and click on VMP tuning form, click on the how to section . then click fuel pump wiring up grade
Justin@VMP
Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Orlando/Daytona, FL
Posts: 861
Default Fuel Pump Wiring Upgarde for 05+ Mustangs
Upgrading the wire powering the FPDM (Fuel Pump Drive Module) will result in ~10% drop in duty cycle. The factory wire is small gauge and has to run through a few relays and the inertia switch, this results in a voltage drop by the time it gets to the FPDM in the trunk. The wiring from the FPDM to the pump can be upgraded as well, but just running a larger wire to the FPDM will result in good gains.
For single pumps I recomend a 10 or 12ga wire, for dual pumps I recomend an 8 or 10 ga wire. You will need a fuse holder with 30amp fuse, ~15' of wire, a relay with socket, and a butt connector.
Run a fused circuit from the battery. You can hook it up to the side of the battery, run it under the battery, into the fenderwell (remove the wheel and fender liner), in the back of the fenderwell there is a rubber grommet going through the firewall into the passenger footwell area. You can then run the wire behind the kick panel, under the door sill, under the back seat, into the trunk, and to the back of the spare tire well.
Use a standard 4/5pin automotive style relay. The center pin is not used. The two side pins, 85 and 86, are for the relay coil, they trigger the relay when ground and +12v is applied. Run one of them to ground, the other one will be hooked up to the white wire going into the FPDM, coming from the harness. We will use the factory FPDM power signal to trigger the relay. 30 is the input for the relay, connector your heavy gauge wire to this pin. 87 is the output for the relay, connect this to the white wire going into the FPDM.
__________________
Justin Starkey - VMP Tuning - Ford & GM Tuning
Mobile DynoJet 224xLC Load Control
Justin@VMPTuning.com 321-206-9369 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 321-206-9369 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
#13
Turbo, thats a good read man. I will probably do this when i up the boost when i actually need to worry about my duty cycles. Thanks
#14
I have a 2008 V6 with the Shaker 500. My CD changer did the same thing. There was no way to fix it so the dealer replaced it. Fortunately, it still was under warranty. I made it to the dealer with EXACTLY 35,999 miles on the ODO.
#15
i love my dealer. Glad they didint void anything and they actually want me to come back for them to check everything before the warranty ends next tuesday. All the service guy told me was, "you know you got on a blower and check engine light on right?" and i replied, "yep, no cats on the car" and he was like "oh, that makes sense".... Mac Haick Ford FTW in Houston/Katy TX!
#17
#19
Oh s!@#, yeah that would very bad. My guess would have been alt since it was running and dying during a trip but glad they found it. I guess you'll eventually find out if its alternator issues if this new batt dies.
I replaced my stocker when it kicked the can with an optima yellow top. Heavy bastard...but I left my keys in the ignition the other night with the stereo on and the volume down (large amp) after working on the car. It started right up the next morning. Love the yellow top!
I replaced my stocker when it kicked the can with an optima yellow top. Heavy bastard...but I left my keys in the ignition the other night with the stereo on and the volume down (large amp) after working on the car. It started right up the next morning. Love the yellow top!
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