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what do I need for 11sec 1/4 mile

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Old 12-06-2011, 03:13 AM   #41
stealth_GT
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Not sure about 11s, but I bet you could get very close with a twin screw or TVS @ 10 psi w/93 octane tune (dyno tuned, even better)

a high stall torque converter (3k), one piece drive shaft, lower control arms and either MT ET Streets bias ply racing tires on 17s.

Maybe 4.10s into that mix
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:06 AM   #42
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What makes that sound? Is it all the cam?

Likely a combination of things to get that sound (although unintended). Car has Comp SPR 127650 cams. Would not recommend for a daily. That sound is not street legal, in fact car is no longer street-legal (surrendered license plate). Car is going through a total rebuild right now for low 9s.

Pic of motor in car at time of that video.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by forensicsteve; 12-06-2011 at 06:09 AM.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:57 AM   #43
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What makes it so bad on the street ?
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:11 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stealth_GT View Post
Not sure about 11s, but I bet you could get very close with a twin screw or TVS @ 10 psi w/93 octane tune (dyno tuned, even better)

a high stall torque converter (3k), one piece drive shaft, lower control arms and either MT ET Streets bias ply racing tires on 17s.

Maybe 4.10s into that mix
I have everything included in his statement minus the driveshaft. My Saleen is the stage 3 with 410 and torque convertor. I should be in the 11s hopefully I'll find out this spring. Im currently in the process of upgrading my brakes. I should have everything after Xmas.

To the op I would look at whatever shop ur gonna deal with and what they specialize in as far as which kit to go with. U can literally read all the pros and cons for every kit and drive urself nuts
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Old 12-06-2011, 09:12 AM   #45
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Oh and when u do go to the track turn off the TCS and remember to never shift into OD even if ur driven hard on the street
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:39 AM   #46
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What makes it so bad on the street ?

Just a lumpy rough idle, not particularly user-friendly for stop n go traffic and such. Those 11s that you mention...that's a dragstrip time only. Back on regular paved highways with street tires.....forget that. There are some that drive on DRs etc.....but stickier the tire, the worse it will be at evacuating water.
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Old 12-06-2011, 01:00 PM   #47
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an older article and not going for 11's, but it has good info to get 12's with just bolt ons.

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...rts/index.html
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Old 12-06-2011, 02:38 PM   #48
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Wow. Location fail on my part, my bad fellas. I'm just conditioned to sympathize with anyone who owns a mustang in California.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:30 PM   #49
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Wow. Location fail on my part, my bad fellas. I'm just conditioned to sympathize with anyone who owns a mustang in California.
Ontario, canada lol. I need to change that
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:34 PM   #50
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Click the image to open in full size.

What rims and tires are these? They look sweet. Are these tires bad to use on the street? Do they wear fast? How bad are they in the rain?(unusable or be careful)
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:46 PM   #51
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Click the image to open in full size.

What rims and tires are these? They look sweet. Are these tires bad to use on the street? Do they wear fast? How bad are they in the rain?(unusable or be careful)
Only use those for the strip. U get FI do not use street tires on the track
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:03 PM   #52
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Only use those for the strip. U get FI do not use street tires on the track
i ment more so can i use track tires on the street. Just to save from buying another set of rims.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:26 PM   #53
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I believe those are racestar wheels with prolly Mickey Thompson tires and they are not street tires. They would wear out fast. You can get some DR ie drag radials that can handle street driving but they dont last very long on the street. I swap tires at the track every time I race. Many times I race friday and saturday night in a row. Swapping tires is a part of racing IMO. I would never run my car without the proper tires. I had little traction before I went FI.
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:39 PM   #54
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stay away from nitto nt05r. i spin alot with them no matter how i heat them. i once ran a 12.004 with 122.85 mph.
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Old 12-10-2011, 04:25 PM   #55
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wow. those times are horrible!

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Old 12-11-2011, 10:21 AM   #56
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11's aren't hard to pull from 2005-2010 GT's. Basically.. You need to look at your overall goal. You don't want to be buying stuff now that you will be replacing later. For example; don't buy an mid pipe (X/H-Pipe); if you plan on changing to Long tubes later on.

-I would start with 4.10 gears since your wanting to drag race, the 4.10's provide the best gearing for finishing the 1/4 @ a good RPM.

-Heads/Cams are an expensive altercation and really don't provide numbers to support the fiscal investment. Heads/Cams would cost you 2,500.00 easy and you would be lucky to get over 375 wrhp. (This is a good gain over stock; however, not enough to get in the 11's)

-Superchargers: Superchargers are expensive, but doesn't require too extensive of an installation. You will however need a tune for any aftermarket power adder, so take that in to consideration. A good Dyno tune starts around $400 and can cost much more.

-Turbos: Turbos are relatively cheap to build and have less limits than a supercharger. You will have a little more in installation and many parts will be necessary to complete the job. The On3 Performance turbo kit would easily put you in the 11's with proper tuning and the complete part list would only cost you about 2,300.00 bucks. Unlike superchargers that will require upgrades in order to run higher boost; a good turbo will support much more boost than your stock 3V can handle safely. Which I would assume would be about 8-10lbs (450-500hp).
Agg=reed
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:30 PM   #57
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Recipe for 11s with an Auto S197

Any twin screw blower around 10psi
LCA and relocate brackets
4.10s
Custom tune
Decent Drag radial
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:33 PM   #58
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Agg=reed
Im not a fan of turbos for our cars. A PITA to keep tuned and tinker with all of the time. No thanks.
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:12 PM   #59
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Im not a fan of turbos for our cars. A PITA to keep tuned and tinker with all of the time. No thanks.
Everyone has their own opinions. I don't know what tinkering and tuning you are talking about with a turbo. If it is tuned correctly you don't have to change the tune for any reason and as far as tinkering I haven't had to touch mine all year. I would much rather have a turbo and be able to change the boost with my EBoost2 and not swapping pulleys. I also don't have to worry about throwing a belt all the time. Every form of FI has it's good points and bad points, it's a matter of choice.


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Old 12-12-2011, 12:35 PM   #60
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Everyone has their own opinions. I don't know what tinkering and tuning you are talking about with a turbo. If it is tuned correctly you don't have to change the tune for any reason and as far as tinkering I haven't had to touch mine all year. I would much rather have a turbo and be able to change the boost with my EBoost2 and not swapping pulleys. I also don't have to worry about throwing a belt all the time. Every form of FI has it's good points and bad points, it's a matter of choice.


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Definitely
I would imagine if you want maximum potential and typically go to the race track, you want some big turbos for that top end power.
If you want some extra power around the street, supercharge it. I love my s/c around town because I reach full boost 3500-4000 rpm which is great. At 3k it really kicks in, below that it feels N/A. How often am I near redline where i'd reach full boost with turbo? Not often

Turbo = more duct work/harder install, more heat, more power potential overall and at high RPM
Supercharger = Less ductwork/easier install, less heat (especially centrifugal like mine), more power at low/mid RPM but less overall potential

Oh and turbos with a nice BOV sound, nothing beats it
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Old 12-12-2011, 12:35 PM
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