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I was gonna mention that this is a great forum for information but always call a shop to verify the information you have. Brenspeed is great at not leading you down a sales path and they deal mainly with the auto as far as drag racing so they are experts. U can ask them about turbos and centris and all that ****. But do yourself a favor and call them when u have questions.
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Detroit Rocker Cams, 410's, Saleen Supercharger, afco dual heat exchanger, TCI torque convertor, stage 3 saleen supercharger, dual gt500 fuel pumps, SS Brake Lines, and Power Slot rotors, LCAS, Koni Adjustables, alpine touch screen, PA deep tranny pan, fluidyne radiator, dynotech DS
Spending a few grand here and there won't be enough. It's gonna be at least 10k. With the auto trans getting a proper TC and stall will be key. It's the one mod I am missing.
Outceltj makes a good point. Call up brenspeed and other vendors about your goals, they are very friendly and cool about answering questions.
06 Satin Silver GT - Auto...ROUSH M90 CAI, Afco Dual Fan HE, 4.10s,Truetrac, Detroit Rockers, DSS DS, TCI Rachet Shifter, PA Deep Pan, Eibach Handling, FR P Springs, Strange Shocks/Struts, J&M UCA/LCA, SS Lines/ EBC Slotted/Dimpled Rotors w/Reds, Mickey Thompson SC5, Nitto 255/305, 2011 leather, Pypes LT's/H-Pipe, MBRP Resonators, Borla
2011 NHRA Sportsman Class Hawaii State Champion
12.23 @ 113 mph
Do keep in mind when ur r racing in the 1/4 never let ur shift into OD. Always keep it in D. Ricardo may know 3 people that's had to do that but there are countless others doing the same without upgrading both motor and tranny. A little common sense will go along way. Plus I'd ur tracking the car : or 3 times a year then u should be fine
They were referred to me by one of the members. The hellion turbos from brenspeed are around 6000$, this is around 1800. I know the brenspeed is a kit. Do any of you guys have person experience or have an opinion on this?
btw. you guys are awesome 3 pages of knowledge in <24hrs
Since you are only going to visit a dragstrip a couple of times a year...I would turbo or supercharge with about 6-8 lbs. Likely not hurt anything. Don't bother chasing 11s. Having been there..done that... would not do it again.
The On3 turbo kit is a great kit for a starting kit. You can upgrade the waste gate and blow off valve and run the turbo that comes with it until you can afford to upgrade. The piping that comes with the kit is very good. If you like the sound of big cams then you don't want a turbo. Those type cams are the exact opposite of what a turbo needs. The stock cams work very well with a turbo setup.
If you go with a supercharger the Saleen setup from Brenspeed is a good deal but any of the Twin screw type superchargers kits will work fine. The max I would go with a stock bottom end is 450 rwhp. There have even been failures at this level but most haven't had and problems. Lot's of guys run higher with no problem but with the stock rods it's a ticking time bomb.
With an auto you definitely need a torque converter. I would recommend a Circle or Precision Industries multi-disk with about 3000 stall speed for a mostly street driven car. You will need a set of adjustable lower control arms and a one piece drive shaft. You should be able to use the stock upper control arm at your desired power levels. For a driveshaft save yourself some aggravation and money and get the one from The Drive Shaft Shop http://www.driveshaftshop.com/domest...earance-issues Automatics have a problem with vibrations that manuals don't seem to have. I have been through 3 different companies driveshafts without eliminating the vibration problems until I got this one.
Auto, TurboHorspower TT, Ford GT fuel pumps, Circle-D T/C, DSS Drive Shaft, 3.27 gears with Detroit True-Trac, Moser Axles, Wilwood Frt & Rear Brakes and more.
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