Headers and Gaskets and Bolts and Tools
#1
Headers and Gaskets and Bolts and Tools
Hey all,
I just ordered a set of ARH headers for my 05 GT. I've got a few questions. Sorry it's a long one, but I figured one long post is better than several separate threads.
GASKETS
=======
I've been reading around a bit on the whole gasket thing and I'm still not sure about the options. From what I can tell there are basically 4 options:
1) Reuse the existing gaskets
2) Use new Ford OEM gaskets
3) Use the gaskets that come with the headers (if applicable)
4) Use an aftermarket gasket.
I'm not much of a fan of the whole reusing option (sounds too much like a problem waiting to happen). I'm pretty sure the ARH headers don't come with gaskets, so that one is out. That leaves the OEM or aftermarket options.
From what I have seen the only aftermarket option that is often discussed is the Percy's. Are there others? Is there much of a true difference between the aftermarket and OEM gaskets?
What about using the copper gasket sealant? Is it generally recommended, or can it cause problems down the road?
BOLTS
=====
What about bolts? There seem to be two options:
1) Reuse the OEM bolts and studs.
2) Use aftermarket locking bolts.
I like the idea of the locking bolts, but I'm curious about getting them to lock. The ones I see the most talked about are the Stage 8 bolts. Do you have to get them turned just right to get the locks to fit, or will they fit no matter where the toque turns the lock to?
TOOLS
=====
I've read that I need an adjustable ratcheting 13mm wrench to make things go easier. A couple of questions:
1) Anyone know where I can buy just one, and not the whole set?
2) Are the aftermarket locking header bolts like the Stage 8 bolts still 13mm heads?
3) I hear that it makes life easier, but that makes me wonder is there not enough room to get a torque wrench in there to get them torqued properly?
Any other tools I'll need? I've got a big *** breaker for the steering knuckle. Got a good work light. No creeper, but I'm still pretty young. Got some fairly high SUV jack stands to use up front. Got both mechanic gloves and nirilite gloves. What else am I missing, besides a buddy?
I just ordered a set of ARH headers for my 05 GT. I've got a few questions. Sorry it's a long one, but I figured one long post is better than several separate threads.
GASKETS
=======
I've been reading around a bit on the whole gasket thing and I'm still not sure about the options. From what I can tell there are basically 4 options:
1) Reuse the existing gaskets
2) Use new Ford OEM gaskets
3) Use the gaskets that come with the headers (if applicable)
4) Use an aftermarket gasket.
I'm not much of a fan of the whole reusing option (sounds too much like a problem waiting to happen). I'm pretty sure the ARH headers don't come with gaskets, so that one is out. That leaves the OEM or aftermarket options.
From what I have seen the only aftermarket option that is often discussed is the Percy's. Are there others? Is there much of a true difference between the aftermarket and OEM gaskets?
What about using the copper gasket sealant? Is it generally recommended, or can it cause problems down the road?
BOLTS
=====
What about bolts? There seem to be two options:
1) Reuse the OEM bolts and studs.
2) Use aftermarket locking bolts.
I like the idea of the locking bolts, but I'm curious about getting them to lock. The ones I see the most talked about are the Stage 8 bolts. Do you have to get them turned just right to get the locks to fit, or will they fit no matter where the toque turns the lock to?
TOOLS
=====
I've read that I need an adjustable ratcheting 13mm wrench to make things go easier. A couple of questions:
1) Anyone know where I can buy just one, and not the whole set?
2) Are the aftermarket locking header bolts like the Stage 8 bolts still 13mm heads?
3) I hear that it makes life easier, but that makes me wonder is there not enough room to get a torque wrench in there to get them torqued properly?
Any other tools I'll need? I've got a big *** breaker for the steering knuckle. Got a good work light. No creeper, but I'm still pretty young. Got some fairly high SUV jack stands to use up front. Got both mechanic gloves and nirilite gloves. What else am I missing, besides a buddy?
#2
I can tell you have done your research, good job. I got my flex head 13mm wrench from sears. They do sell singles and that tool will save you hours of time, pints of blood and a whole lotta frustration. I used Percy gaskets. Stockers are ok if they are undamaged and not too many miles on them. I used stock hardware except when I needed a shorter bolt. I believe there are 3-4 spots mostly on drivers side that you have to have a shorter bolt. You won't be able to get a wrench on it. Timmbo has a great writeup, do a search with his name and headers, it's what I followed.
I used 4 jack stands to get the car high, also laid a carpet under there to ease the pain. No need for the copper sealant IMO. There are some people that claim to do it in 4-6 hours. Realistically expect to spend an entire weekend. It's a lot of work. Installing my supercharger went faster. Good luck and enjoy it. Your car will sound like no other will LTs.
I used 4 jack stands to get the car high, also laid a carpet under there to ease the pain. No need for the copper sealant IMO. There are some people that claim to do it in 4-6 hours. Realistically expect to spend an entire weekend. It's a lot of work. Installing my supercharger went faster. Good luck and enjoy it. Your car will sound like no other will LTs.
#4
Been a few years since I installed LT's on my 06 GT & a friends. You will need a deep well 15mm socket, for the exhaust manifold to H-pipe flange bolts & the other exhaust bolts. Would also help to have a 6 or 8mm box wrench for the exhaust manifold studs, can't remember which size, but I'm thinking 6mm.
You will need a floor jack & piece of wood. Plan on removing the motor mounts & starter, and jacking up the engine to install the LT's. Did not need to remove/disconnect the steering shaft on mine. Disconnect & remove the battery as well, will help with access.
I reused my exhaust manifold bolts & nuts, had to cut 2 of them down to clear a primary tube. Friend used the Stage 8 locking bolts, all your preference, both held fine. I don't remember if the Stage 8 bolts were 13mm. Took a little more time installing the locking bolts.
I used new gaskets that came with headers, friend re-used his stock manifold gaskets.They both did not leak after 3-4 years.
Seriously consider replacing your motor mounts with prothene mounts at this time. May prevent you from doing at a later date. Greatly reduces or eliminates any steering shaft rub during hard cornering.
You will need a floor jack & piece of wood. Plan on removing the motor mounts & starter, and jacking up the engine to install the LT's. Did not need to remove/disconnect the steering shaft on mine. Disconnect & remove the battery as well, will help with access.
I reused my exhaust manifold bolts & nuts, had to cut 2 of them down to clear a primary tube. Friend used the Stage 8 locking bolts, all your preference, both held fine. I don't remember if the Stage 8 bolts were 13mm. Took a little more time installing the locking bolts.
I used new gaskets that came with headers, friend re-used his stock manifold gaskets.They both did not leak after 3-4 years.
Seriously consider replacing your motor mounts with prothene mounts at this time. May prevent you from doing at a later date. Greatly reduces or eliminates any steering shaft rub during hard cornering.
#5
I used a set of new OEM gaskets and a combination of OEM studs/nuts and the bolts provided with the headers, depending on how easy they were to get to. The stock nuts are self-locking, which is why I reused a lot of them.
Getting to some of the bolts is a PITA. It may help to remove the motor mount bracket while you do one side (although I didn't). Some bolts I worked in 1/8-1/4 a turn at a time.
Having a variety of 13mm wrenches and sockets and extensions and a universal, will make it easier.
Be careful of the heat shields on the k-member; some of the sheet metal bolts may be in the way and you may need to remove one on each side to prevent hitting.
The headers were a challenge to get up into the engine bay; raising the car up high enough makes it easier, just be careful.
The steering column bolts are not that tight, but they do have loctite on them.
They will fit, after all the work...and they sound great!
Getting to some of the bolts is a PITA. It may help to remove the motor mount bracket while you do one side (although I didn't). Some bolts I worked in 1/8-1/4 a turn at a time.
Having a variety of 13mm wrenches and sockets and extensions and a universal, will make it easier.
Be careful of the heat shields on the k-member; some of the sheet metal bolts may be in the way and you may need to remove one on each side to prevent hitting.
The headers were a challenge to get up into the engine bay; raising the car up high enough makes it easier, just be careful.
The steering column bolts are not that tight, but they do have loctite on them.
They will fit, after all the work...and they sound great!
#6
Like 808 already said GET YOURSELF A 13MM FLEX HEAD!!!!! Its a hugeeee advantage when squeezing your arm to try and tighten/loosen the header bolts. Also lets you get at them from and angle.
Took me about 6-8 hours and isnt very hard at all, just takes patience and time. I did mine on 4 jackstands in my garage in PA
Took me about 6-8 hours and isnt very hard at all, just takes patience and time. I did mine on 4 jackstands in my garage in PA
#9