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2005 - 2014 Mustangs Discussions on the latest S197 model Mustangs from Ford.

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Price to replace rear brake pads $355?

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Old 04-10-2012, 01:22 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by highline View Post
I will google tonite, but I'm in the same boat...diy or pay someone...I'd rather do it myself, but have never done anything with brakes...Is there a good write up (taco bill?) for the s197? Do i have to bleed? I will be replacing rotors and pads...
If you need help, just give me a shout, you can come over to my house and I will give you a hand. We can get Curartorpatronus (Greg) to come help too

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Old 04-10-2012, 01:30 PM   #22
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haynes, nice suggestion...I may take you up on that oddy...I will order the parts this week...
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:00 PM   #23
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haynes, nice suggestion...I may take you up on that oddy...I will order the parts this week...
Just let me know
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:18 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by highline View Post
I will google tonite, but I'm in the same boat...diy or pay someone...I'd rather do it myself, but have never done anything with brakes...Is there a good write up (taco bill?) for the s197? Do i have to bleed? I will be replacing rotors and pads...
I did not have to bleed them. If you use the proper tool (linked to earlier) to retract the piston properly, there should be no introduction of air into the line, and thus you should not have to bleed the brakes.

Don
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highline View Post
I will google tonite, but I'm in the same boat...diy or pay someone...I'd rather do it myself, but have never done anything with brakes...Is there a good write up (taco bill?) for the s197? Do i have to bleed? I will be replacing rotors and pads...
Here is a decent write up

Fronts are much easier than the backs as no piston rotation is needed. Bleeding is unnecessary.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:26 PM   #26
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I just bought new calibers an rotors an brakes for the back of mine an the parts was just $231 dollars an labor was free its not that hard to do it your self but my best friend wouldn't let me do it alone so he helped me.Not sure who is trying to rip you off but that's what they trying to do.An that price includes 14 extra i had to spend for caliber bracket that bolt broke off in.I am just glad i got it done an i have both back brakes working instead one an didn't know that till tore it apart that explained why she fishtailed in the rain so much.I will know for sure next time it rains though.
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:32 PM   #27
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Be sure to inspect the guide pin boots and check that the pins turn and slide freely without binding. I got in the habit of just pulling the pins, cleaning and re-greasing them with caliper grease whenever I service the brakes.
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:04 AM   #28
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see, this is what scares me...I have no idea what a guide pin boot is, or does...most likely why I'll be having someone else do this...especially with brakes...they seem pretty important to safe driving...
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:06 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDinTexas View Post
Simple answer. NO. And not no, but HELL NO...

You could purchase Hawk HPS pads for front and back and get your OEM rotors turned for alot less than what you are being quoted for just the rear. The only tool you'll need besides your basic socket set is a brake caliper compressor tool. I purchased mine at Harbor Freight for $10.

Do it yourself and save the money for other mods.

Don
and a brake caliper compressor tool can be a 'C' clamp and scrap wood....
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:11 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highline View Post
see, this is what scares me...I have no idea what a guide pin boot is, or does...most likely why I'll be having someone else do this...especially with brakes...they seem pretty important to safe driving...
do you have a father or close friend who's handy or a pesky neighbor? or anyone really to watch over your shoulder? changing your own brakes is along the same lines as changing your own oil.

just make sure that the rubber boots compress nicely and don't have and brakes or tears in them. you should even have to worry about it, really
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Old 04-11-2012, 01:21 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Rylay View Post
and a brake caliper compressor tool can be a 'C' clamp and scrap wood....
In my experience, this is not true for the rears...

I upgraded my rotors to Powerslots and my pads to Hawk HPS pads, fronts and rears. The fronts were compressed just fine with the C-Clamp and scrap wood... When I got to the rears... no go. The rears required the tool and I had to stop my install, grap the keys to my other vehicle and make my way to the local harbor freight. $10 later and with the right tool, the piston on the rear compressed no problem.

Just curious, but have you actually done the rear brakes yourself?

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Old 04-11-2012, 02:54 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by highline View Post
see, this is what scares me...I have no idea what a guide pin boot is, or does...most likely why I'll be having someone else do this...especially with brakes...they seem pretty important to safe driving...
You are correct. Brakes are probably the single most important part of car as far as having them work correctly. It's not a difficult task to do it yourself and I recommend doing it yourself. But, it's also easy to screw it up. Just get someone who's done it before to help you the first time. Then next time you will be good to go.


Oh, and that price is ridiculous.
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:34 PM   #33
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and a brake caliper compressor tool can be a 'C' clamp and scrap wood....
Only for the fronts.

The rear brake piston has to be screwed in and requires the tool. But you can rent the tool for free from places like AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:31 PM   #34
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The rear disc brake pistons have to be turned clock-wise while pressing them back into the caliper housing; this is true when the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper. The HF tool works well for this application; although I had to crank pretty hard to get those pistons turning. You have to turn until the tool binds, then release/re-adjust the collar and repeat until the piston is fully reset.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by 6-Speed; 04-12-2012 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:53 PM   #35
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What is the reason that the ones with parking brakes built in need to be turned while being pushed in?
Just wondering how it works
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:30 PM   #36
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What is the reason that the ones with parking brakes built in need to be turned while being pushed in?
Just wondering how it works
It's a characteristic of the self-adjusting mechanism. You can read about it here if you wish.

See the part on "Disk Parking Brakes".

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake06.pdf
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:26 PM   #37
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So, is paying $355 to replace the rear brake pads a good deal? I have a 2006 Mustang GT.
That price better include buying you dinner.
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Old 04-11-2012, 10:48 PM   #38
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$355.00 is highway robbery. You can but new rotors and pads for well under 200.00 bucks and rent the tool from Autozone for free.

Last edited by pinn; 04-11-2012 at 10:54 PM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:24 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highline View Post
I will google tonite, but I'm in the same boat...diy or pay someone...I'd rather do it myself, but have never done anything with brakes...Is there a good write up (taco bill?) for the s197? Do i have to bleed? I will be replacing rotors and pads...
If you are not getting pulsation on the pedal, you can often get away with just replacing the pads. However, once you get it apart, the rotors are a piece of cake to remove and replace. Hour or two at best for the rears. Ditto for front. Haven't done pads on my S197 yet, but a lot of other cars including Porsche and BMW. It's not a very hard job. Tools: Correct socket to pull the caliper, tool for compressing the caliper, rags, anti-seize compound, BrakeKleen, and plenty of rags. Hint: open the bleed valve when you compress it. The piston will move really easily then. However, fluid will squirt out of the valve on compression. So, take the appropriate precautions.

You should bleed the brakes after it is done. In fact you should be replace the fluid entirely every year or so depending on your use anyway. If you track the car, you probably will be bleeding the brakes after every event.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:45 PM   #40
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Here is a decent write up

Fronts are much easier than the backs as no piston rotation is needed. Bleeding is unnecessary.
Great article!
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:45 PM
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