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Decisions, Decisions. I need a little advice.

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Old 05-11-2012, 06:37 PM   #21
S197GT07
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He is using the spring compressor. There is no better guide than Hammeron's here on the site. Pretty sure its a sticky in the tech section. I used that when I installed a set of hotrods and it was spot on.
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:40 PM   #22
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I'm about to head out to eat but I'll definitely read it when I get back!


edit: I'm sitting here waiting so I looked for the thread and couldn't find any posts by hammeron. If you know where it's located it would be a big help.


edit: never mind, found it while looking at s197forum. lol.


edit again: Here is the link: http://mustangforums.com/forum/gt-s1...ion-guide.html

However, he uses the valve spring compressor as well.
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:37 PM   #23
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Really? Bush

All you have to do is back the cam caps off to the point where you can fish out the 3 non loaded followers when the motor is at the 12:00 position
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Old 05-11-2012, 07:56 PM   #24
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The cam caps are the things holding the cam in place, right? I'm not sure which 3 followers to pull but i'll look when I get back.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:39 PM   #25
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The non-loaded followers should be the ones not engaged by a cam lobe.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:43 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by siggyfreud View Post
The non-loaded followers should be the ones not engaged by a cam lobe.
Okay. Going from Hammeron's install, it would be these then, for the right side?

Quote:
RH SIDE: Using the Valve Spring Compressor, remove
the 3 camshaft roller followers, shown in the illustration.


CAUTION: Do not allow the valve keepers to fall off the valve or the
valve may drop into the cylinder.

NOTE: The camshaft roller followers must be installed in their
original locations. Record camshaft roller follower locations.

NOTE: It may be necessary to push the valve down while compressing
the spring.

Click the image to open in full size.

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Currently selling: FRPP 3.55 Gears for 8.8" rear end, OEM GT Throttle Body. PM me if interested.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:03 AM   #27
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Looks right. In the pic all three lobes are pointing away from the cam.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:27 AM   #28
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I'm on my phone so my searching capabilities are limited but the three lobes that aren't pushing on a valve?
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:57 PM   #29
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Hamerons. DIY is spot on. Its what I used too.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:18 PM   #30
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Sounds good! I just talked to a buddy who has done this before and is gonna help me do it. I feel a lot more secure having someone experienced there with me.
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Currently selling: FRPP 3.55 Gears for 8.8" rear end, OEM GT Throttle Body. PM me if interested.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:39 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roush05 View Post
Sounds good! I just talked to a buddy who has done this before and is gonna help me do it. I feel a lot more secure having someone experienced there with me.
Thats a very good idea. While the swap is not overly difficult you could f*ck up your stuff real bad if you dont pay attention to all those pesky followers.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:38 AM   #32
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There's that, and then the distinct possibility that I would knock the timing chain wedge loose and have to have someone re-time my engine. I don't even know what that entails, but it has to be expensive.
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Currently selling: FRPP 3.55 Gears for 8.8" rear end, OEM GT Throttle Body. PM me if interested.
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:49 AM   #33
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As soon as you pull the valve covers, go CRAZY with the sharpie!

Get the engine to 12:00, and mark the **** out of the phaser and chain so you KNOW if you jumped a tooth. Also, when swapping the cam out, have person #2 just hold the phaser with tension so there is no WAY it could jump. Thats how I did it and I didn't feel as if there was a possibility to skip a tooth.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:42 AM   #34
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Will do. The guy isn't shipping until Monday so I don't know when it will be here :/ What exactly happens if it were to slip?
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:49 AM   #35
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If it skipped a tooth, you need to take the front cover off and re-time the engine. It's fairly straight forward, but lets cross that bridge if we have too.

Again, if you have somebody hold the phaser with some tension on the chain while you go get the new cam you shouldn't have an issue.

If it skipped a tooth and you didn't know it, the car would run like crap.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:23 PM   #36
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Gotcha. We'll be extra careful. Either tomorrow or Tuesday I'm going to attempt the header install. I'll keep you updated.
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:15 PM   #37
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Sounds good man. Header install is easy!

Take off intake & remove battery tray to get the top 8 studs.

Have fun with the bottom 8, some are fun to get at. A closed end ratcheting wrench will be your friend.

Then drop the starter to get the pass side header in, and remove the steering rack for the drivers side.

So easy, a caveman could do it!
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Old 05-13-2012, 03:31 PM   #38
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I assume the lift is gonna make it a lot easier?
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Old 05-13-2012, 03:54 PM   #39
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Lift for a header install...........not really needed. You better have a 13mm flexhead racheting box wrench and a pair of gloves thats for sure. Otherwise frustrations will run high and blood loss will be significant!! Anybody whom has installed them knows what I'm saying. Expect it to take at least one day too.

You do NOT want to fubar your timing..........get a timing wedge or make one.
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Old 05-13-2012, 04:50 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roush05 View Post
I assume the lift is gonna make it a lot easier?
A ton. After you get the top ones, you just lift it up, take out the midpipe, and go to work on the bottom studs.

As 808 said, gloves are a must.
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Old 05-13-2012, 04:50 PM
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