Spark Plug Anti Seize Question?
#1
Spark Plug Anti Seize Question?
I successfully changed all 8 plugs in my '08, 26,000 mile GT...Woo Hoo!
But I used Loctite Silver grade anti seize, rated to 1600 deg F. The label was covered up - I thought it was nickel grade. A couple of the online videos and the TSB said to use nickel AS, rated to 2300 deg F, and definitely NOT to use aluminum AS.
Am I hosed? Should I remove the plugs, wipe the Silver AS off and reapply Nickel AS? With only 2 minutes of run time on the new plugs, they should come out easy!
Thanks.
But I used Loctite Silver grade anti seize, rated to 1600 deg F. The label was covered up - I thought it was nickel grade. A couple of the online videos and the TSB said to use nickel AS, rated to 2300 deg F, and definitely NOT to use aluminum AS.
Am I hosed? Should I remove the plugs, wipe the Silver AS off and reapply Nickel AS? With only 2 minutes of run time on the new plugs, they should come out easy!
Thanks.
#2
Pull the plugs and reinsert with the nickel anti-seize. There is a reason Ford specifies this. Don't think there will be any issues with getting them out with as little run time as they have. Follow the Ford TSB just in case...
#4
I wouldn't even bother with it. What do you think is going to happen? You'll never get all the anti-seize off the threads of the heads.
Last I heard Ford said not to use any anti-seize and they also said not to use silicon to seal the windshield wiper cowl clips, which I did.
Last I heard Ford said not to use any anti-seize and they also said not to use silicon to seal the windshield wiper cowl clips, which I did.
#6
Being a maintenance mechanic, any bolt that can gauld, I put never seize on it. The nickel stuff when dealing with heat. The trick is to not over do it. Don't paint it on there, just a very light coat. On what I work on, it typically gets to 700 degrees when being cleaned in a hot liquid sand bed. We even run some bolts through what is called keylite. The stuff can still be seen after being run through both of those. You put a bolt in without it, and you will pull a helicoil. Even an 1 1/8" one. Just how I do it and my experiences with the different types of it.
#7
Myself, I would re-do with the nickel stuff. Also, the AS goes only on the smooth barrel shield below the threads, not ON the threads. Lastly, be careful NOT to get any AS on the firing end of the plug as this will cause the plug to short out and misfire.
#8
I'm gonna pull them and apply the nickel AS. It can't hurt, and since they are new, it will take less than an hour. There will definitely be silver AS on the head threads, but nothing I can do about that now. I should have been positive about the grade before I put it on.
Followed the TSB for removal and where to put the AS - on the barrel, not on the threads or ground shield around the plug.
Well, I almost followed the TSB. Instead of turning the plugs 1/8 turn before spraying, I sprayed them with PB Blaster first. After soaking several hours, I turned them 1/8 turn with less than 25 ft-lbs, then left them soaking overnight. TSB said not to exceed 35 ft pounds. I figured more soak time wouldn't hurt.
Followed the TSB for removal and where to put the AS - on the barrel, not on the threads or ground shield around the plug.
Well, I almost followed the TSB. Instead of turning the plugs 1/8 turn before spraying, I sprayed them with PB Blaster first. After soaking several hours, I turned them 1/8 turn with less than 25 ft-lbs, then left them soaking overnight. TSB said not to exceed 35 ft pounds. I figured more soak time wouldn't hurt.
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