Suspension install tips?
#1
Suspension install tips?
Hey guys, for the last few weeks ive been looking up threads about certain setups for my suspension in my 13 gt/cs. I was hoping you may be able to give me any tips or tricks that made it easier for you.
I purchased an eibach pro kit locally for $140.00 (it was used for 3k then guy traded car in) i purchased for Koni STR.T's from auto anything for $309.00. I still have to purchase GT500 strut mounts from tousley ford for $85.00 and also an adjustable panhard bar, more than likely BMR.
I was just curious if flipping the GT500 strut mounts, facing the arrow in toward motor really helps with camber.
Also curious about bump/jounce stops, i know nothing about these, but found the FRPP ones on tousley for 19.00. Does anyone know if Koni oranges include the top strut nut or if that will be reused? Wasn't sure if i needed any new hardware for anything.
Im not sure how much this setup will affect my pinion angle, but do plan on an adj UCA in the future.
I also have no experience with "rubber isolators". The springs came with a rubber sleeve but im not sure if thats what they mean. My ultimate goal is just to not have any squeeks or creeks
If anyone here has any experience they'd like to share i would be very greatful. I read alot of threads with "i wish i would have known" scenarios. Any tips are greatly appreciated, thanks for your time!
I purchased an eibach pro kit locally for $140.00 (it was used for 3k then guy traded car in) i purchased for Koni STR.T's from auto anything for $309.00. I still have to purchase GT500 strut mounts from tousley ford for $85.00 and also an adjustable panhard bar, more than likely BMR.
I was just curious if flipping the GT500 strut mounts, facing the arrow in toward motor really helps with camber.
Also curious about bump/jounce stops, i know nothing about these, but found the FRPP ones on tousley for 19.00. Does anyone know if Koni oranges include the top strut nut or if that will be reused? Wasn't sure if i needed any new hardware for anything.
Im not sure how much this setup will affect my pinion angle, but do plan on an adj UCA in the future.
I also have no experience with "rubber isolators". The springs came with a rubber sleeve but im not sure if thats what they mean. My ultimate goal is just to not have any squeeks or creeks
If anyone here has any experience they'd like to share i would be very greatful. I read alot of threads with "i wish i would have known" scenarios. Any tips are greatly appreciated, thanks for your time!
#2
If it were me (and it was a year ago), I'd get caster/camber plates instead of the GT500 strut mounts. That way, you can mount them correctly and adjust caster and camber to your specifications. I went with Maximum Motorsports plates.
Keep the rubber isolators.
Eibach Pro springs will not affect your pinion angle. I'm running the same springs and shocks you will be, and I have no pinion angle problems. I also don't have any bump-stop problems (I'm still using the unmodified OEM parts).
Keep the rubber isolators.
Eibach Pro springs will not affect your pinion angle. I'm running the same springs and shocks you will be, and I have no pinion angle problems. I also don't have any bump-stop problems (I'm still using the unmodified OEM parts).
#3
Flipping the GT500 mounts will increase positive camber (around .75+).
Koni STR.T's do not come with new strut top nuts or shock hardware. You will have to re-use the originals or get new ones.
Reuse your bumpstops, they will be fine. Also reuse your strut dust covers.
Transfer the rubber/plastic sleeve from the bottom of your stock springs to the new ones. Like stock, leave about an inch of the end last coil showing.
Lastly, tighten the hell out of the sway bar links while being careful not to snap the stud. It is a sucky design, but they have to be tight as sh*t.
Koni STR.T's do not come with new strut top nuts or shock hardware. You will have to re-use the originals or get new ones.
Reuse your bumpstops, they will be fine. Also reuse your strut dust covers.
Transfer the rubber/plastic sleeve from the bottom of your stock springs to the new ones. Like stock, leave about an inch of the end last coil showing.
Lastly, tighten the hell out of the sway bar links while being careful not to snap the stud. It is a sucky design, but they have to be tight as sh*t.
#6
The Fays2 is the least expensive and doesn't require you to change out your diff cover.
#7
I just dropped my car over the weekend with the SR springs and GT500 mounts from AM. Install took about 4 hours start to finish. An impact would have made things quicker, but it is certainly doable with just hand tools. I did install the GT500 mounts "backwards" with the arrow pointing in. I haven't been to the alignment shop yet, I'm waiting a couple weeks for the springs to settle. You'll need some deep well metric sockets (specifically an 18 and a 21mm).
#8
I just dropped my car over the weekend with the SR springs and GT500 mounts from AM. Install took about 4 hours start to finish. An impact would have made things quicker, but it is certainly doable with just hand tools. I did install the GT500 mounts "backwards" with the arrow pointing in. I haven't been to the alignment shop yet, I'm waiting a couple weeks for the springs to settle. You'll need some deep well metric sockets (specifically an 18 and a 21mm).
#9
I'd be interested to know what difficulties you come into .... cause I will be doing this some point soon, I am planning most likely the steeda pro / sport springs with adj panhard... Not sure if I'll need UCA/LCA yet, that I guess I'll have to check pinion angle..
What about those camber bolts that AM sells?
What about those camber bolts that AM sells?
#10
Ill report back with any difficulties bud. It may be 1-2 weeks before my buddy and i get around to installing though. I ordered a set of eibach camber bolts from AM. My car is a DD with minimal track use. Surely they will be fine for my 1" drop up front.
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