thrust angle help plz
#12
My new alignment right now seems to control the pulling to the left but i feel wierd.
FRONT
camber left before=-1 actual=-1 right before=-.4 actual=-.4 (!)
caster left before=7.2 actual=7.2 right before=6.9 actual=6.9
toe left before=-.04in actual=.02in right before=.02in actual=.01in
sai left=2.5 right=15.1
included angle left=1.5 right=14.7
cross camber=-.6
cross caster= .3
cross sai=-12.6
total toe=.03
REAR
camber left=-.5 right=.2 (!)
toe left= -.14in right= .12 (!)
cross camber=-.8
total toe= -.02in
thrust angle=-.26(!)
Alot of the measurements is different than before like the rear, when i asked him he didnt seem to know and said previous alignment machine number might be set differently. Any ideas? I also ask him about adj phb and lca but he say it wont do much.
FRONT
camber left before=-1 actual=-1 right before=-.4 actual=-.4 (!)
caster left before=7.2 actual=7.2 right before=6.9 actual=6.9
toe left before=-.04in actual=.02in right before=.02in actual=.01in
sai left=2.5 right=15.1
included angle left=1.5 right=14.7
cross camber=-.6
cross caster= .3
cross sai=-12.6
total toe=.03
REAR
camber left=-.5 right=.2 (!)
toe left= -.14in right= .12 (!)
cross camber=-.8
total toe= -.02in
thrust angle=-.26(!)
Alot of the measurements is different than before like the rear, when i asked him he didnt seem to know and said previous alignment machine number might be set differently. Any ideas? I also ask him about adj phb and lca but he say it wont do much.
Last edited by winkawak; 01-03-2014 at 02:48 PM.
#13
There is no way for SAI on either front wheel to be only 2.5° without it being obvious to a blind man and not physically possible to drive. No way would the camber, caster and toe for that wheel be anywhere near in spec. FWIW, design SAI is somewhere around 15.5°.
This shop apparently doesn't want to do work that is the least bit out of the ordinary, and that apparently includes touching a car with a crash history.
When I first put adjustable LCAs on my car, one of them ended up being one full turn off even though I was pretty fussy about matching the bolt center distances to the OE LCAs. SO I picked one LCA to undo one bolt of, turned the end one turn, bolted it back up, and went for a test drive. Problem solved.
IIRC, mine was about 1/8" at the LCA brackets, or pretty close to your amount off. I can think of a couple of reasons right away how that could have happened, not that it really mattered at the time.
There is way more than 1/8" adjustment available in most if not all adjustable LCAs, and people use adjustable PHBs all the time after lowering the rear of these cars.
"it won't do much" should equate to "your shop won't be doing anything".
On edit, I'm not sure I trust the measurements that either place came up with, so I'd be making my own alignment measurements.
Norm
This shop apparently doesn't want to do work that is the least bit out of the ordinary, and that apparently includes touching a car with a crash history.
When I first put adjustable LCAs on my car, one of them ended up being one full turn off even though I was pretty fussy about matching the bolt center distances to the OE LCAs. SO I picked one LCA to undo one bolt of, turned the end one turn, bolted it back up, and went for a test drive. Problem solved.
IIRC, mine was about 1/8" at the LCA brackets, or pretty close to your amount off. I can think of a couple of reasons right away how that could have happened, not that it really mattered at the time.
There is way more than 1/8" adjustment available in most if not all adjustable LCAs, and people use adjustable PHBs all the time after lowering the rear of these cars.
"it won't do much" should equate to "your shop won't be doing anything".
On edit, I'm not sure I trust the measurements that either place came up with, so I'd be making my own alignment measurements.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 01-03-2014 at 04:49 PM.
#15
There is no way for SAI on either front wheel to be only 2.5° without it being obvious to a blind man and not physically possible to drive. No way would the camber, caster and toe for that wheel be anywhere near in spec. FWIW, design SAI is somewhere around 15.5°.
This shop apparently doesn't want to do work that is the least bit out of the ordinary, and that apparently includes touching a car with a crash history.
When I first put adjustable LCAs on my car, one of them ended up being one full turn off even though I was pretty fussy about matching the bolt center distances to the OE LCAs. SO I picked one LCA to undo one bolt of, turned the end one turn, bolted it back up, and went for a test drive. Problem solved.
IIRC, mine was about 1/8" at the LCA brackets, or pretty close to your amount off. I can think of a couple of reasons right away how that could have happened, not that it really mattered at the time.
There is way more than 1/8" adjustment available in most if not all adjustable LCAs, and people use adjustable PHBs all the time after lowering the rear of these cars.
"it won't do much" should equate to "your shop won't be doing anything".
On edit, I'm not sure I trust the measurements that either place came up with, so I'd be making my own alignment measurements.
Norm
This shop apparently doesn't want to do work that is the least bit out of the ordinary, and that apparently includes touching a car with a crash history.
When I first put adjustable LCAs on my car, one of them ended up being one full turn off even though I was pretty fussy about matching the bolt center distances to the OE LCAs. SO I picked one LCA to undo one bolt of, turned the end one turn, bolted it back up, and went for a test drive. Problem solved.
IIRC, mine was about 1/8" at the LCA brackets, or pretty close to your amount off. I can think of a couple of reasons right away how that could have happened, not that it really mattered at the time.
There is way more than 1/8" adjustment available in most if not all adjustable LCAs, and people use adjustable PHBs all the time after lowering the rear of these cars.
"it won't do much" should equate to "your shop won't be doing anything".
On edit, I'm not sure I trust the measurements that either place came up with, so I'd be making my own alignment measurements.
Norm
Is the car right now safe to drive without damaging anything? i getting so fed up with incompetent dealer mechanics. I wanted to take the complaint up to the manager but figured it would come out wrong again like last dealer. Should i just take it to independent shop and have them align the car? I dont think ill be inclined to do alignment myself due to lack of knowledge and tools.
adj phb and lca will be last resort, i have extended warranty right now and i would lose it if its installed. btw what kind of spec should i see next time at a alignment shop that would tell me my car is in the right specs? i know looking at a number if its within tolerance is not a solid way to go.
Thanks again for your patience, every forum member should look up to you lol.
Last edited by winkawak; 01-03-2014 at 10:14 PM.
#17
I did but its not it, do you know any reputable shops that can install the adj phb, lca and align the car for me?
btw Norm i would like to add to the above post, when i had my car frame checked at a independent collision shop their top mechanic looked over my rear suspension. He told me he didnt see any damage down there but found 2 or 3 bolts were not tight and the phb clip(attach to the chassis phb mount) is installed backward. Its very unlikely something is damaged in the rear suspension. Im thinking its how the car came like the link in the first post............im not sure
im doing alot of reading right now and found sai is not adjustable............so how the hell did he came up with 2.5 on the left, typo? The whole service was less than 30minutes.
Also it seems that on his machine all my specs went up in numbers especially in the rear, its non adjustable at the moment. Could it really be a machine thing?
Come to think of it, i have been dog tracking for over 9k miles now, does it damage suspension?
Too bad this forum doesnt allow "reps" i would give you one for every helpful post
edit
After driving for couple days, car drives normal now but im getting this loud whirl(like when you in reverse)/hum noise between 40-60mph. Did this alignment damage my wheel bearing? It sounds just like the sound in this video..............
btw Norm i would like to add to the above post, when i had my car frame checked at a independent collision shop their top mechanic looked over my rear suspension. He told me he didnt see any damage down there but found 2 or 3 bolts were not tight and the phb clip(attach to the chassis phb mount) is installed backward. Its very unlikely something is damaged in the rear suspension. Im thinking its how the car came like the link in the first post............im not sure
im doing alot of reading right now and found sai is not adjustable............so how the hell did he came up with 2.5 on the left, typo? The whole service was less than 30minutes.
Also it seems that on his machine all my specs went up in numbers especially in the rear, its non adjustable at the moment. Could it really be a machine thing?
Come to think of it, i have been dog tracking for over 9k miles now, does it damage suspension?
Too bad this forum doesnt allow "reps" i would give you one for every helpful post
edit
After driving for couple days, car drives normal now but im getting this loud whirl(like when you in reverse)/hum noise between 40-60mph. Did this alignment damage my wheel bearing? It sounds just like the sound in this video..............
Last edited by winkawak; 01-04-2014 at 04:48 PM.
#18
#19
No, it would be leaking if its bent
Port st lucie, this is pissing me off. Last dealer sloppy job had me in twice for pinion leak and 4 times for rear caliper (had to replace rotor too due to their sloppy install on the metal plates that draging on rotor). Now this dealer, but im not sure if the bad bearing is due to the alignment. i drive with window down 95% of the time so i might had a bad wheel bearing to start with but then again noise was never this loud but im sure its on the driver front. The whirl/hum noise is pretty loud and stands out more on asphalt pavement. i starting to think if extend warranty or any kind of warranty from dealership is worth it.
edit
actually im pretty sure now its the alignment, i drove 40 minutes there with window up and i didnt notice it the noise its when i got the car back i noticed the noise like in the video.
Port st lucie, this is pissing me off. Last dealer sloppy job had me in twice for pinion leak and 4 times for rear caliper (had to replace rotor too due to their sloppy install on the metal plates that draging on rotor). Now this dealer, but im not sure if the bad bearing is due to the alignment. i drive with window down 95% of the time so i might had a bad wheel bearing to start with but then again noise was never this loud but im sure its on the driver front. The whirl/hum noise is pretty loud and stands out more on asphalt pavement. i starting to think if extend warranty or any kind of warranty from dealership is worth it.
edit
actually im pretty sure now its the alignment, i drove 40 minutes there with window up and i didnt notice it the noise its when i got the car back i noticed the noise like in the video.
Last edited by winkawak; 01-04-2014 at 07:11 PM.
#20
Norm............plz tell me you havent abandoned me, we are almost done. After getting this noise sorted out, ill be doing both adj phb and lca end of this week or eaarly next week.
Last edited by winkawak; 01-05-2014 at 03:04 PM.