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New Wheels, New Tires, Car Still Shakes (F**king Pissed)

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Old 04-25-2014, 11:55 AM   #1
whosniffedme
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Default New Wheels, New Tires, Car Still Shakes (F**king Pissed)

I've been having a problem where my steering wheel will shake. I can't find a pattern, it seems to be fine one day, then scare the **** out of me the next. It will obviously get worse at higher speeds. I recently replaced the strut mounts and tie rods, and just put on 4 new Forgestars and Nittos because I thought the problem were my ****ty wheels and tires.

I don't know what to do anymore people. I've spent over 2 grand on my car trying to eliminate this problem to no avail, actually broke my jack I've used it so many times trying to find the problem.

If anyone knows a top notch mechanic in Austin area, please let me know, or if you have any suggestions for things to check out. I just want to enjoy driving my car again instead of getting bent out of shape. Here's some photos I took at the Greenbelt after getting the new shoes.

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Old 04-25-2014, 01:07 PM   #2
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the one time this happened in my car (not a Mustang at the time) was due to a stuck front brake caliper. The rotor had a slight warp/thickness runout and the caliper wasn't releasing.

if you drive down the highway then come to a stop, is one of the front wheels hotter than the other (or are both sizzling hot?)
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Old 04-25-2014, 01:32 PM   #3
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I got new tires last year. Had a shimmy around 50-60 mph.
Tire shop swore up and down the tires were fine and the balance was fine.
Got a Roadforce Match/Mount balance done and the shake/shimmy was gone.
Even when the car was new i took it to dealer for steering wheel shake and it took them
a few balances to get it right.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jz78817 View Post
the one time this happened in my car (not a Mustang at the time) was due to a stuck front brake caliper. The rotor had a slight warp/thickness runout and the caliper wasn't releasing.

if you drive down the highway then come to a stop, is one of the front wheels hotter than the other (or are both sizzling hot?)
I am getting some brake noise on my rear driver (high pitched squeak in low RPMs) and my front passenger (creaks while braking). Both of those noises only happen on hot days, or if I do a lot of driving, but I've checked the calipers several times and they all seem fine. I'll double check after I head to work.

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Originally Posted by rls82959 View Post
I got new tires last year. Had a shimmy around 50-60 mph.
Tire shop swore up and down the tires were fine and the balance was fine.
Got a Roadforce Match/Mount balance done and the shake/shimmy was gone.
Even when the car was new i took it to dealer for steering wheel shake and it took them
a few balances to get it right.
I tried getting this done, but the shop said my tires were too bad for them to be able to do it, so then I bought some new ones and just had a standard balance and mount done. I know they're probably going to charge around $150 bucks for all four wheels, and I would be very angry if it didn't make a difference but I do want to try that. I still don't see how just that could change from better to worse from a balancing issue though, maybe something is making my alignment constantly change?
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:42 PM   #5
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Try using beads instead of weights. My tires come out of balance all the time. I spend $50/mo getting them balanced every month like it's a utility bill. The consensus is that when I take off hard, the tire actually slips a little on the rim before going in motion. Thus causing it to go out of balance.

When I save enough dough to replace these tires, I will be going the bead route. Basically, they put a boat load of plastic beads inside your tire. When sitting still, they all just hang out down at the bottom. When you take off though, the force pushes them into all the uneven spots and they stay there til you stop again.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:43 PM   #6
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Also, check your CV joints.
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Old 04-25-2014, 02:51 PM   #7
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+1 on caliper sticking/failing. Happened to me caused CRAZY wheel shake on my Camry. Needed a new caliper on passenger side.
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Old 04-25-2014, 03:05 PM   #8
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From all the threads I read about balancing nightmares, I wonder if the people mounting tires take note of the red or yellow dots on tires when mounting tires. Those dots are to help get the tire somewhat balanced before balancing.

Some wheels have a dimple to show the low spot on a wheel, a red dot on the tire shows the high spot of the tire. The two should be lined up when mounting. If there isn't a dimple on the wheel, line up with the valve stem.

A yellow dot should be lined up with the valve stem for best initial balance.

If a tire has both, the red dot takes precedence.

See if yours has any dots and where they are located.
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Old 04-25-2014, 04:29 PM   #9
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if your local shop is charging $150 for a balance of 4 tires then find a new shop. where did you buy the tires? same place that charges 150 for the balance?
not sure if you have one in your area but discount tire has always been my tire "go-to" place. a couple sets it took them a couple shots to get the balance right..but since i bought the tires from them they never charged for the balancing after i drive off the first time...and even then i think its only MAYBE 50 bucks tops for a balance and rotate
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Old 04-25-2014, 09:00 PM   #10
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$150 for balancing is insane. It's also asinine to expect that balancing doesn't get right the first time. If you even have to return that should be a red flag.

Also, anyone who brings their Mustang to chain-style mechanic shops like Jiffy Lube, Discount Tire, Mavis etc should be ashamed of themselves, IMO. All those places are trash. Find a good local mechanic or do the work yourself.
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:51 AM   #11
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I only skimmed through this thread...but nobody mentioned removing the front rotor clips found attached to the lug bolts...you must remove them before installing any aftermarket wheel:

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Old 04-26-2014, 01:35 PM   #12
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So upon inspecting my brakes to the best of my ability, the caliper that's giving a creak when it gets got has some hot spots on the rotor. I can touch it with my bare hand after driving though, so I don't think it's stuck. Theoretically if it's a stuck caliper, when I apply the brakes the shaking should go away correct? Also, should I turn a slotted/drilled rotor?

Also, I see no harm in letting Discount Tire balance your wheels, not like they're tuning your car.

Waykooljr: I did notice these lines on the new tires, although since I've done some driving they've faded already. I always wondered what those were supposed to be.

Magnido: I have aftermaket rotors
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:00 PM   #13
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Rotors could be warped, and certainly sounds like it if you can see hot spots.
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:21 AM   #14
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I'm going to make a really simple suggestion...don't get offended. I concur with Magnido45.....Based on the experience I had after upgrading my brake rotors, calipers and pads along with new wheels for summer and winter use and appropriate tires for each seasonal rotation.....

I reinstalled the rotors and put the factory retainers back onto the wheel studs. I found that when I went from the Winter tires and wheel combo, which were OEM spec Leguna Seca wheels...to the Summer tire and wheel combo... that there was a little bit of wiggle/wobble that I just couldn't pinpoint.

The OEM style wheels actually have a recess around the back side of the stud holes that takes into account the retaining clip...therefore there will always be a flush fit when these wheels are installed.

However, the Forgestars don't have this recess. They are flat and therefore when they are installed with the retaining clip on the rotor...they actually will never install flush. Which was what was causing the ever so slight wiggle feeling in the steering.... Although on certain road conditions it was not as noticeable. But on a really smooth tarmac surface...I could feel it. And the electronic power steering was likely trying to nibble away at it which caused for the bit of erratic feel....only on the forgestars.

On a lift my father... examined the the difference in the wheels...and the fact that the clips were likely the cause of it.

The fix?

Remove the clips. They apparently are only installed at the factory while on the assembly line to keep the rotors in place as they are being conveyed down the plant. And with your wheels torqued into place...there is no need for them.

Once I removed these clips....the wiggle went away on the summer wheels.

Maybe this is not the case for you? But, its worth a look. Because if all else considered and you've done everything you have thus far.... its not unlikely to be something as simple and stupid as a simple retaining clip.

Just my 2 cents....

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Old 04-27-2014, 10:35 AM   #15
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sure it's not a tyre flat spot?
even a brand new tyre can develop this after a few weeks..mine shakes if left for a week..
these cars are very ancient design susspension and steering...unless everything is spot on they drive like crap..
all my 3 mustangs had a slight shimmy at 65mph..even my low milage 2010 has it very slightly..
as posted above if u have aftermarket wheels u have to remove the rotor retaining clip..
do u have the tpm system on the new wheels?
maybe thats come off it's band..that will realy throw your wheels off
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Old 04-27-2014, 02:04 PM   #16
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There are no retainer clips on my car, they're all aftermarket rotors and wheel studs. Also, even when my car had different wheels and was riding on OEM rotors it ran great, all this started happening about three or four months ago and varies between butter smooth and oh my god I'm pulling over bad. I noticed today that it is more noticeable when I'm steering my car to the left.

I got my car aligned before I got the new tires and wheels and the thing was on point but still shook so bad I couldn't drive it on the freeway, wheels were semi balanced too (one had a slight bend). That's when I decided I needed new wheels and tires, and here we are.

I've taken it to a shop a couple times and the guy insists that everything is straight under the car, and from what I can see I agree but something is clearly ****ed up. I'm going to try and find a legit mechanic tomorrow to get a balance and alignment check (even though I just had one), and also to have him check all the steering and brake components for failures.

Also before anyone says it, I replaced my axles in December so it's not that.
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Old 04-27-2014, 03:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whosniffedme View Post
There are no retainer clips on my car, they're all aftermarket rotors and wheel studs. Also, even when my car had different wheels and was riding on OEM rotors it ran great, all this started happening about three or four months ago and varies between butter smooth and oh my god I'm pulling over bad. I noticed today that it is more noticeable when I'm steering my car to the left.

I got my car aligned before I got the new tires and wheels and the thing was on point but still shook so bad I couldn't drive it on the freeway, wheels were semi balanced too (one had a slight bend). That's when I decided I needed new wheels and tires, and here we are.

I've taken it to a shop a couple times and the guy insists that everything is straight under the car, and from what I can see I agree but something is clearly ****ed up. I'm going to try and find a legit mechanic tomorrow to get a balance and alignment check (even though I just had one), and also to have him check all the steering and brake components for failures.

Also before anyone says it, I replaced my axles in December so it's not that.
Then I'm going to suggest the only other thing that caused similar outcomes for me....

1. A universal joint on the drive shaft

Depending on the year of the car

2. Steering rack and/or pump

3. A motor mount

4. Transmission mount.



Just a few things that have caused steering issues for me on various cars.


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Old 04-27-2014, 04:03 PM   #18
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Steering wheel shake right?

Steering rack is the culprit...
Ford can't build a rack worth a damn past 30K miles it seems.
They won't break or get really worse but you'll have that shake at about 60mph.
My car does it, and so is most of the people I know with 05/09 cars.
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:16 PM   #19
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Well my power steering fluid is on point, I don't know if it's ever been flushed however as I haven't owned the car it's entire lifespan. When I get the thing on a lift tomorrow I'll check the motor mounts and transmission mounts. What can I do to check and see if it has something to do with the steering rack?

Also, if my pump was out wouldn't I just have no power steering? My old Mustang was like that I actually kind of liked it hahaha
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:42 PM   #20
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'k, wait. you have aftermarket rotors, studs, and wheels. how are the wheels centered? Are they hub centered (flat lug nuts) or stud centered (tapered lug nuts?) Do the wheels have spacers on your car?
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Old 04-27-2014, 05:42 PM
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