LOUD "DIESELING" NOISE AT IDLE
#1
LOUD "DIESELING" NOISE AT IDLE
Just bought an '08 GT in April. 90k miles. Put a few thousand miles on it with no issues. At 95K I got a loud "diesel-like" knocking noise at idle after the car warms up. The first time came with P0345. Changed Cam Pos. sensors...no Change. New alternator...no change. New pulleys and belt...no change. Changed oil last Sunday at 100k... noise got worse and vomited the following codes...P0022, P0340, P0344 and P0345. Happens at almost every idle now since last oil change. Happens when the car is warm. All the gauges look stable and within normal parameters. Goes away when I bring RPM's over 1,500+. I could reproduce the noise on an incline before the last oil change. Now, it happens 60% of the time I stop and idle after the car is warm. If I pull it into the garage at night and turn it off while the noise is present, then I will hear it immediately upon startup the next day but it will disappear immediately after that.
The car is stock with the exception of FRPP springs.
Scheduled the dreaded appointment at the local Ford dealer.
Anybody got any ideas?
The car is stock with the exception of FRPP springs.
Scheduled the dreaded appointment at the local Ford dealer.
Anybody got any ideas?
#3
6th Gear Member
I thought this sounded very familiar... Try this: https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...ttle-load.html
#4
I thought this sounded very familiar... Try this: https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l...ttle-load.html
Sounds close, doesn't it? I've read a few posts here and there and my greatest concern would be some sort of internal blockage preventing good oil pressure to access the chain tensioner. I hypothesized a bad tensioner from the beginning of this mess. But I'm not a tech, so what do I know.
The distressing part of that thread you posted was no closure. The poster never divulged the real trouble. So I'm at square one, ready to shell out the several hundred bones in diag fees at the Ford dealer. We'll see.
#5
#7
Update. One trip to the dealer and $144 later...dealer says I have 15psi oil pressure at idle and 40psi at 2,000 rpm. Mother effing bummer. They tell me they can't really get to pinpointing the source without tearing the thing down. Heh. Not sure what my next move is here. Anybody have a good line on quality shortblocks?
#9
Update. One trip to the dealer and $144 later...dealer says I have 15psi oil pressure at idle and 40psi at 2,000 rpm. Mother effing bummer. They tell me they can't really get to pinpointing the source without tearing the thing down. Heh. Not sure what my next move is here. Anybody have a good line on quality shortblocks?
#10
Out of spec. Spec is 30 and 75.
After a brief chat with a shop foreman for the largest Ford dealer in the region(who also builds and races modular Mustangs, either the oil pump is bad(which, he thinks is improbable but possible) or the car's been beaten on severely by a previous owner who may not have been minding the oil properly while in between beatings(i.e. redlining with low oil volume, longer oil change intervals, etc.
Next step....auction block. Doris...I loved ya, baby.
After a brief chat with a shop foreman for the largest Ford dealer in the region(who also builds and races modular Mustangs, either the oil pump is bad(which, he thinks is improbable but possible) or the car's been beaten on severely by a previous owner who may not have been minding the oil properly while in between beatings(i.e. redlining with low oil volume, longer oil change intervals, etc.
Next step....auction block. Doris...I loved ya, baby.