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I have a 2007 4.6 GT with a dipstick-less transmissions they are designed to be flushed by hooking the cooling lines up to a machine draining and filling simultaneously. It is a fairly new method as I understand it the torque converter is flush well during this process and with a cleansing fluid added before the new fluid to remove any built up residue before fresh fluid is put back in. During the first 30k flush no filter was replaced as the dealership informed me that the cleansing fluid would also clean the filter, any metal would not be significant enough to replace the filter at 30k. I do not trust dealership or much of any other people working on my vehicles I do most all work myself. I really want the best job possible done that is why I like to do it myself. I mainly want to inspect and replace the filter. I like to see few if any metal and if it is excessive I want to see it not be told about it.
The dealership Transmission fluid flush seems to be a great method I had it done before 30k miles I am at 62k now.
I think I can do the fluid change myself by opening the drain plug and unhooking both the cooling lines using a 5 gallon bucket to catch the old fluid and a 2 gallon pump-up sprayer to force new fluid into by attaching it to the return fluid line (removing the spray nozzle so the fluid flows faster in the open line) until I see good color going into the bucket... Watching for over flow at the drain plug controlling it with the pressurized 2 gallon sprayer valve... (in neutral, engine running at idle) (force fluid out of the cooler with compressed air)
This is what the machine at the dealership does, with a cleansing fluid added first before the new transmission fluid. I will pay the dealership to do the change if I am able to watch their flush. If they give me some kind of insurance purposes reason to not let me watch I will most likely do it all myself I just need the cleansing fluid whatever that is???
Sound feasible?
bad idea, you will make a hell of a mess. depending on if the trans there is either a stand pipe that is used to set level and drain the unit, or a hex cap in the place of the old style dipstick, under it there is a small stub stick used to measure level. there are procedures for both and since setting the level is crucial i would get a manual and look up the procedure.
most shops wont let you watch the job from anywhere close to the vehicle, it is due to insurance, if the inspector from the company came by he would ream the owners azz. if this is due to the fact that they would be liable for your injuries /loss of work/pain and suffering/whatever else people sue for if u got hurt.
This is why I like to watch the procedure, I do not know if I should open or keep the "stand" pipe plugged. I do not think it would make a mess with a compression fitting on the line of the pressurized 2 gallon pump sprayer. The other line will drain into a 5 gallon bucket with a small hose to direct the flow.
Large Graduation marks on both the sprayer and bucket are needed to match the flow going in with the flow coming out...
Personally I think the dealer is blowing smoke up your azz. No cleaner could ever be all recovered. And all the junk left in the pan is just nuts. You can refill your trans through the speed sensor hole. Just remove the sensor don't disconnect it.Ford was out to lunch when the eliminated the trans. dipstick. I know others have done it also.
I have swapped the fluid with the special adaptor and the POS snorkel drain bolt. Horribly messy and frustrating. Now the easy way. Performance Automatic and Summit racing have deeper pans available with dip sticks. Get one of those. Then you can drain the fluid then fill via the dip stick. I swap my fluid every year as I do 75-100 passes a year at the drags. Yes you dont get a complete fluid swap this way but you get a majority of it. And your not getting hosed by a dealer.
I found a 10 quart pressurized container for transmission fluid selling for $150 hand pump only. The one I am making has a hand pump and a tire valve so it can be pressurized with a compressor. I have less than $50 in mine...
When I put the compression fitting on the line with valve like in the above picture I will only need to take off the "Hot" transmission fluid line and screw the pressurized container line to the male cooler fitting instead of the return line. It will just run the fresh fluid through the cooler as it returns to the transmission. You guys are a lot of help this process is getting better everyday...
Never heard of them using a cleaning agent... Any of that crap left behind after a flush would interfere with proper operation of the tranny. The 5r55s is extremely fickle as it doesn't engage and disengage each gear, it slips in and out of them and overlaps them.
It's a simple flush system where they push fluid in one end and let it flush out the other. They run it until the fluid coming out looks clean.
I can not find anything about a cleaning agent either. I ask another dealership about it and they said only new transmission fluid is used as it is the cleaning agent as well as the lube. These dealerships that tell me BS and think we won't ask around to get the real deal are sadly mistaken. Just another reason not to give them maintenance business. If you want it done best we have to learn and do it ourselves... So this is what I am going to do;
I am at 62k now I will run 2 gallons in while 2 gallons comes out running at idle and operating temperature. At around 85k-90k I will drop the pan clean it and change out the filter. Inspecting for excessive metal fragments... I just wonder what anyone else have found in their transmissions and what mileage did they drop their pan?
11-09-2015, 10:50 AM
Dipstick-Less Transmission Flush?
