2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery
02-07-2007, 02:27 PM
#41
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Posts: 106
RE: 2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery
I wanted to update everyone on this. As I posted ealier, on 1/23 I found that my battery had died after sitting at the most,2 weeks. I charged up the battery and found I indeed had left the radio on. I ran the car for a bit, turned off the radio and shut of the car. It's been sitting since then, which is almost exactly another two weeks. I went and checked it now and it started right up. The battery was fine. So this seems toconfirm (in my mind) that leaving the Shaker on is what is draining the battery.
Food for thought.
Dave Kegel
Food for thought.
Dave Kegel
02-19-2007, 03:48 PM
#42
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Posts: 106
RE: 2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery
car was at dealer for a week. picked up thursday. drove friday, sat. went out to start dead. went to dads to get charger came back it started but barely turned over. i turned off the radio everyday i have had it back. they also replaced the original shaker 1000 head unit. sunday car is dead again, i just tried jumping it and it wont turn over so its being towed to the dealer again. any other ideas????? ford dealership sure dont have any.
02-20-2007, 02:27 PM
#43
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Posts: 106
RE: 2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery
they just put in a new battery. i think they re just trying to mask the problem until the car goes off warranty. if i get the extended warranty does it take care of electrical problems? the car has 28000 now, if it takes car of electrical issues i'm goingto buy the extended.
02-25-2007, 12:12 AM
#44
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1
RE: 2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery
Well my battery keeps draining too. I have an 07 GT wtih aftermaket alarm. Which i thought was the cause of my drain issues.
The alarm installer did find some drains issues with the alarm and replaced some relays. But my battery is still draining to this day although not as quickly . And It is still the original battery, so it may be weak now.
Note that oringally my car died after about 1 week sitting around.After jumping it and driving around inoticeed a gradual decrease in the amount of time it took the battery to drain. (eg 3 days, 2 days, 24 hours, 12 hours, 6 hours, etc) Eventually six hours was the most i could get out of it, even after driving around for 1 hour.
All this was before getting the alarm relays replaced.
Now that the alarm issues ared fixed, my drain issue has still not gone away. Hower it's imporant to note, i can still start my car after 2 days, if i drive the car around every day for at least 1-2 hours. At5 days of no driving, by battery is so dead the the interior lights wont even come on.
So i beleive that this problem now consists of the fact the my battery is weak along with the nominal current drainage. And the fact that the alternter doesnt' have suffuciant power to fully recharge the battery as descibed in this post
"NOTE TO ALL: Your alternator WILL NOT charge your battery unless it is 140-200AMP alternator. OEM alternator does not put out enough amps to charge the battery so don't get confused. I learned this after talking to a ton of mechanics. "
I decided to run some tests. I hooked an ammter between the neg battery and here is what i found.
- As soon as i closed the doors. The amps reading was about 3.3 amps
- Afterthe interior light when Off the reading droped to 2.2 amps.
- then after about 40-60 secs, the reading dropped to about 0.180 amps
Im sure that my alarm draws about 0.040 (amps). The would mean that my Musang alone should draw between 0.120 to 0.150 (amps) when everything is off.
Now all this so far seems to be ok. Since modern cars do drain about 0.100 (amps) in stand by mode (OFF).
I do not see any exesive power loss. For a battery to drain as quickly as a week, you need a good 1.0 (amps or more).
Not that i have not tried testing with the radio in the ON position, all the above readings were from the radio being OFF. Since i wanted to eliminate from any drain issues.
I will shorting be gett my clamp-on DC ammter. And will be able to run some better tests. I will also test the Radio ON/OFF theory to see if infact anything remains on after the ignition key is in the OFF position.
I want to have as much info as possible when i take this problem to the dealer, this they are bunch of ********* and only fix whats on TSBs.
I'll follow up shortly.
The alarm installer did find some drains issues with the alarm and replaced some relays. But my battery is still draining to this day although not as quickly . And It is still the original battery, so it may be weak now.
Note that oringally my car died after about 1 week sitting around.After jumping it and driving around inoticeed a gradual decrease in the amount of time it took the battery to drain. (eg 3 days, 2 days, 24 hours, 12 hours, 6 hours, etc) Eventually six hours was the most i could get out of it, even after driving around for 1 hour.
All this was before getting the alarm relays replaced.
Now that the alarm issues ared fixed, my drain issue has still not gone away. Hower it's imporant to note, i can still start my car after 2 days, if i drive the car around every day for at least 1-2 hours. At5 days of no driving, by battery is so dead the the interior lights wont even come on.
So i beleive that this problem now consists of the fact the my battery is weak along with the nominal current drainage. And the fact that the alternter doesnt' have suffuciant power to fully recharge the battery as descibed in this post
"NOTE TO ALL: Your alternator WILL NOT charge your battery unless it is 140-200AMP alternator. OEM alternator does not put out enough amps to charge the battery so don't get confused. I learned this after talking to a ton of mechanics. "
I decided to run some tests. I hooked an ammter between the neg battery and here is what i found.
- As soon as i closed the doors. The amps reading was about 3.3 amps
- Afterthe interior light when Off the reading droped to 2.2 amps.
- then after about 40-60 secs, the reading dropped to about 0.180 amps
Im sure that my alarm draws about 0.040 (amps). The would mean that my Musang alone should draw between 0.120 to 0.150 (amps) when everything is off.
Now all this so far seems to be ok. Since modern cars do drain about 0.100 (amps) in stand by mode (OFF).
I do not see any exesive power loss. For a battery to drain as quickly as a week, you need a good 1.0 (amps or more).
Not that i have not tried testing with the radio in the ON position, all the above readings were from the radio being OFF. Since i wanted to eliminate from any drain issues.
I will shorting be gett my clamp-on DC ammter. And will be able to run some better tests. I will also test the Radio ON/OFF theory to see if infact anything remains on after the ignition key is in the OFF position.
I want to have as much info as possible when i take this problem to the dealer, this they are bunch of ********* and only fix whats on TSBs.
I'll follow up shortly.
ORIGINAL: tempman
I've had dead battery problems as well with my 05 GT standing for just 2 days - after 1 day its a little hesitant when starting.
having trawed several forums It is clear this is a common issue !
This is where I am up to: a quote from my post on another forum :- dead battery
"
does anyone here know if 0.12 amps is a reasonable current draw when everything is "off"`including the alarm ??
I am in the Uk so cant get any warranty help from Ford.
I've had dead battery problems as well with my 05 GT standing for just 2 days - after 1 day its a little hesitant when starting.
having trawed several forums It is clear this is a common issue !
This is where I am up to: a quote from my post on another forum :- dead battery
"
Ok, I just got in from testing my cars current drain in the cold -2.0c which for us brits is chilly!
the car has been stood for a 24 hours & before I started, I checked the battery voltage and it was down from 12.4 yesterday to 11.8v !
I unclamped the negative cable from the battery and used an amp meter in line between the negative post on the battery & the cable .
for the first 30 secs or so the amps fluctuated around 2 to 2.5 amps then settled at a steady 1.1amps during this time the interior light stayed on . I couldnt see from the manual which fuse to pull to turn it off so I just opened & closed the drivers door to force it to switch itself off. that done the amps reading dropped to a steady 0.39amps
then I pulled the shaker 1000 amp fuses - fuse 6 & fuse 9 . Fuse 6 caused a drop to 0.12 amps . Fuse 9 made no difference, I then prceeded to pull in turn every other fuse and relay in the power box under the hood but no change from 0.12 amps. I tried the fuses inside the car but could easily get to them all so only pulled about half. no change to the amperage though.
so in the end I pulled both shaker 1000 fuses ie 6& 9. and the amperage remained at 0.12amps.
there is clearly something wrong with the fuse 6 circuit but I dont know how to proceed from here.
The car just about fired up & after running it for 10 mins or so the battery voltage was 12.80 . I guess I need to check it again tomorrow to see if the voltage loss is reduced."
the car has been stood for a 24 hours & before I started, I checked the battery voltage and it was down from 12.4 yesterday to 11.8v !
I unclamped the negative cable from the battery and used an amp meter in line between the negative post on the battery & the cable .
for the first 30 secs or so the amps fluctuated around 2 to 2.5 amps then settled at a steady 1.1amps during this time the interior light stayed on . I couldnt see from the manual which fuse to pull to turn it off so I just opened & closed the drivers door to force it to switch itself off. that done the amps reading dropped to a steady 0.39amps
then I pulled the shaker 1000 amp fuses - fuse 6 & fuse 9 . Fuse 6 caused a drop to 0.12 amps . Fuse 9 made no difference, I then prceeded to pull in turn every other fuse and relay in the power box under the hood but no change from 0.12 amps. I tried the fuses inside the car but could easily get to them all so only pulled about half. no change to the amperage though.
so in the end I pulled both shaker 1000 fuses ie 6& 9. and the amperage remained at 0.12amps.
there is clearly something wrong with the fuse 6 circuit but I dont know how to proceed from here.
The car just about fired up & after running it for 10 mins or so the battery voltage was 12.80 . I guess I need to check it again tomorrow to see if the voltage loss is reduced."
I am in the Uk so cant get any warranty help from Ford.
02-26-2007, 11:17 AM
#47
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Posts: 250
RE: 2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery
Turn radio off AND remove all cd's from Shaker. Mine's an 05. Sounds stupid but last year I left cd's in the system and battery died. This year, took them out and so far, three months later(in storage) still starts without charge. Solved my battery problem!?!?
02-26-2007, 03:47 PM
#49
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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Posts: 106
RE: 2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery
and one more thing, when they replace my shaker head unit they left the cds in there so im out six cd's which they arent going to replace. they said i should have taken them out before bringing it in, i said didnt know you were going to replace that unit. then they said thats is tough luck, they will try to get them back for me, no word on them yet
02-26-2007, 09:39 PM
#50
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Posts: 168
RE: 2005 Mustang GT Dead Battery
This weekend I will be doing the shaker scoop install, if it gets here. It will be 2 weeks since running. The shaker radio is off, has 5 cd's in it as always, alarm is on, doors locked. It has always started so far after 2-3 weeks sitting this winter. After this weekend I will try leaving the radio "on" and see what happens.
Hope you get your cd's back.
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Hope you get your cd's back.
[IMG]local://upfiles/53664/69D0078E93484D2CBE8A16651BF1641B.jpg[/IMG]