10-20-2015, 10:13 AM
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Did I buy a lemon?
06-26-2014, 06:59 PM
#11
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,329
you might want to find another dealer. They've already BSed you about codes clearing when you restart the car, now they're feeding you this line.
06-27-2014, 08:04 AM
#13
You can also remind them that they have three attempts to fix this and if its still coming back again for the same crap...its officially a Lemon and they will need to consider paying you for buying it back or finding you a suitable replacement. Put a report in with the Ford Customer Service dept and get yourself a documented case number detailing the problem and the date or dates of when it went into the dealership. And keep all records of work done by the dealer with digital copies forwarded to the Ford Customer Service dept under the case number they open up.
If they muck this up...doing the above will make the push for a new replacement much easier. And if the timing is spot on with it...you could find yourself pulling an s550 out of them as that suitable replacement.
Patience and methodical followup on this will be the foil for that dealer and deservedly so for blowing smoke up your rear in the first place. Kill em with the reuse of cordial understanding and kindness...then shove the knife in and slowly start twisting it until you get this resolved.
Just saying.
---
If they muck this up...doing the above will make the push for a new replacement much easier. And if the timing is spot on with it...you could find yourself pulling an s550 out of them as that suitable replacement.
Patience and methodical followup on this will be the foil for that dealer and deservedly so for blowing smoke up your rear in the first place. Kill em with the reuse of cordial understanding and kindness...then shove the knife in and slowly start twisting it until you get this resolved.
Just saying.
---
06-28-2014, 07:21 PM
#15
well I didn't take it to the dealership who initially told me that codes aren't stored. I actually have 4 or 5 ford dealerships between where I live and work. Anyway, I got the car back today and was told that they could not replicate my issue and that I should return when it occurs again. They found an error code but didn't know what it meant so they contacted a Ford Hot Line for "detailed pinpoint information." They printed out Ford's response which is below. Most of it sounds chinese to me:
Dealer: Cust states that after driving around 1/2 hour, the traction control and traction control off lights come on/if restarts car, lights go off. Have found one code DTC C1A41 for clutch pedal sensor circuit. DTC info not found in workshop manual. Need to know what pinpoint test to use for this code.
Ford Hot Line Response: We have seen previous reports with this code present and the cause has been customer driving habits, therefore it would be recommended to reproduce the symptom and if unable to duplicate yourself, it may be helpful to ask the customer when this code appears or to have the customer drive the vehicle in the way they do when the code appears and traction control lamp comes on. Also inspect for any add on or aftermarket accessories such as a remote starter, alarm system, snap shot device, etc that may be present. These systems have been seen as causes for various electrical symptoms.
However, if the system can be duplicated without the customer you can then refer to page 31-1 of the online EVTM in order to diagnose a fault on the clutch pedal position switch or the switch itself. When the switch is at rest (not pressed) there is ground provided to the PCM on circuit CE904(GN-VT) to the PCM. When the clutch pedal is pressed, this switch becomes open and therefore the ground is removed as this circuit becomes open indicating the clutch pedal has been pressed to the PCM. It may also be helpful to check the PCM for any other codes that may or may not be present as this may be a plausibility issue with another input that does not agree with the input received from the clutch pedal switch input. If no other codes are present, then disconnect end connectors at the PCM and clutch pedal position switch and load test these circuits with a suitable load such as a bulb and supply power and ground to each circuit. With the circuit loaded, measure the voltage dropped across the bulb and compare it to source voltage. A voltage drop (difference) or 0.3V or more indicates a circuit fault is present and you can either overlay or repair as needed. If all circuits prove out, then ensure G104 is both clean and secure and if so, suspect the clutch pedal position switch.
Drove the car for a while today and the lights didn't come on but I didn't take it on the freeway which is normally when things go downhill. Guess I have to go back next week when the issue occurs.
Of course I don't have any aftermarket items installed and my driving habits are conservative -- no burnouts, no abrupt stops, no excessive speeding and accelerating, etc..
Dealer: Cust states that after driving around 1/2 hour, the traction control and traction control off lights come on/if restarts car, lights go off. Have found one code DTC C1A41 for clutch pedal sensor circuit. DTC info not found in workshop manual. Need to know what pinpoint test to use for this code.
Ford Hot Line Response: We have seen previous reports with this code present and the cause has been customer driving habits, therefore it would be recommended to reproduce the symptom and if unable to duplicate yourself, it may be helpful to ask the customer when this code appears or to have the customer drive the vehicle in the way they do when the code appears and traction control lamp comes on. Also inspect for any add on or aftermarket accessories such as a remote starter, alarm system, snap shot device, etc that may be present. These systems have been seen as causes for various electrical symptoms.
However, if the system can be duplicated without the customer you can then refer to page 31-1 of the online EVTM in order to diagnose a fault on the clutch pedal position switch or the switch itself. When the switch is at rest (not pressed) there is ground provided to the PCM on circuit CE904(GN-VT) to the PCM. When the clutch pedal is pressed, this switch becomes open and therefore the ground is removed as this circuit becomes open indicating the clutch pedal has been pressed to the PCM. It may also be helpful to check the PCM for any other codes that may or may not be present as this may be a plausibility issue with another input that does not agree with the input received from the clutch pedal switch input. If no other codes are present, then disconnect end connectors at the PCM and clutch pedal position switch and load test these circuits with a suitable load such as a bulb and supply power and ground to each circuit. With the circuit loaded, measure the voltage dropped across the bulb and compare it to source voltage. A voltage drop (difference) or 0.3V or more indicates a circuit fault is present and you can either overlay or repair as needed. If all circuits prove out, then ensure G104 is both clean and secure and if so, suspect the clutch pedal position switch.
Drove the car for a while today and the lights didn't come on but I didn't take it on the freeway which is normally when things go downhill. Guess I have to go back next week when the issue occurs.
Of course I don't have any aftermarket items installed and my driving habits are conservative -- no burnouts, no abrupt stops, no excessive speeding and accelerating, etc..
06-28-2014, 07:29 PM
#16
You can also remind them that they have three attempts to fix this and if its still coming back again for the same crap...its officially a Lemon and they will need to consider paying you for buying it back or finding you a suitable replacement. Put a report in with the Ford Customer Service dept and get yourself a documented case number detailing the problem and the date or dates of when it went into the dealership. And keep all records of work done by the dealer with digital copies forwarded to the Ford Customer Service dept under the case number they open up.
If they muck this up...doing the above will make the push for a new replacement much easier. And if the timing is spot on with it...you could find yourself pulling an s550 out of them as that suitable replacement.
Patience and methodical followup on this will be the foil for that dealer and deservedly so for blowing smoke up your rear in the first place. Kill em with the reuse of cordial understanding and kindness...then shove the knife in and slowly start twisting it until you get this resolved.
Just saying.
---
If they muck this up...doing the above will make the push for a new replacement much easier. And if the timing is spot on with it...you could find yourself pulling an s550 out of them as that suitable replacement.
Patience and methodical followup on this will be the foil for that dealer and deservedly so for blowing smoke up your rear in the first place. Kill em with the reuse of cordial understanding and kindness...then shove the knife in and slowly start twisting it until you get this resolved.
Just saying.
---
06-28-2014, 07:42 PM
#17
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,329
Dealer: Cust states that after driving around 1/2 hour, the traction control and traction control off lights come on/if restarts car, lights go off. Have found one code DTC C1A41 for clutch pedal sensor circuit. DTC info not found in workshop manual. Need to know what pinpoint test to use for this code.
Ford Hot Line Response: We have seen previous reports with this code present and the cause has been customer driving habits, therefore it would be recommended to reproduce the symptom and if unable to duplicate yourself, it may be helpful to ask the customer when this code appears or to have the customer drive the vehicle in the way they do when the code appears and traction control lamp comes on. Also inspect for any add on or aftermarket accessories such as a remote starter, alarm system, snap shot device, etc that may be present. These systems have been seen as causes for various electrical symptoms.
However, if the system can be duplicated without the customer you can then refer to page 31-1 of the online EVTM in order to diagnose a fault on the clutch pedal position switch or the switch itself. When the switch is at rest (not pressed) there is ground provided to the PCM on circuit CE904(GN-VT) to the PCM. When the clutch pedal is pressed, this switch becomes open and therefore the ground is removed as this circuit becomes open indicating the clutch pedal has been pressed to the PCM. It may also be helpful to check the PCM for any other codes that may or may not be present as this may be a plausibility issue with another input that does not agree with the input received from the clutch pedal switch input. If no other codes are present, then disconnect end connectors at the PCM and clutch pedal position switch and load test these circuits with a suitable load such as a bulb and supply power and ground to each circuit. With the circuit loaded, measure the voltage dropped across the bulb and compare it to source voltage. A voltage drop (difference) or 0.3V or more indicates a circuit fault is present and you can either overlay or repair as needed. If all circuits prove out, then ensure G104 is both clean and secure and if so, suspect the clutch pedal position switch.
So the stability control (traction control) system needs to know what you're doing with the clutch pedal in order to know what to do. And what the PCM is reading from the clutch pedal switch occasionally doesn't make sense.
07-13-2014, 10:43 AM
#19
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 19
i would definitely get your codes scanned. then i would change out the sparks , and plugs, make sure you get better than oem quality. if that doesn't fix it probably your coil packs. Check the exhaust system to make sure all bolts are tight.
Change all filters including fuel filter, run a bottle of the techron or lucas fuel treatment.
Drop that oil make sure its clean and get a good oil filter. Might want to think about an oil catch can it helped me lots catching all that oil. And if you still don't like the way its idling. clean the throttle body and check maf sensor. This might all sound Chinese but keep up with your maintenance and throw a couple of aftermarket parts in there.
Change all filters including fuel filter, run a bottle of the techron or lucas fuel treatment.
Drop that oil make sure its clean and get a good oil filter. Might want to think about an oil catch can it helped me lots catching all that oil. And if you still don't like the way its idling. clean the throttle body and check maf sensor. This might all sound Chinese but keep up with your maintenance and throw a couple of aftermarket parts in there.
07-25-2014, 05:52 PM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: California
Posts: 399
I was just stating as if he had no choice but to keep it...