promustanperformance

Yep, seems pretty straightforward. Biggest decision for me is deciding whether to go with the RHS 180 or 200cc heads, as I will be driving this car over 50 miles every day. Professional products typhoon intake will go well though. They make a lower manifold for the 351. Let me know if you need any parts and I will help you out. Talk to you soon

promustanperformance

Yep, seems pretty straightforward. Biggest decision for me is deciding whether to go with the RHS 180 or 200cc heads, as I will be driving this car over 50 miles every day. Professional products typhoon intake will go well though. They make a lower manifold for the 351. Let me know if you need any parts and I will help you out. Talk to you soon

knucklefux

there is the issue of hood clearance. the 351w is about 3" taller than the 302, and ford reduced the height of the upper plenum in 94 so that it would fit under the lower hood of the sn95 mustang. this is why a 93 gt makes more power than a 94 gt. you do not need swap headers. the bracketry will bolt right up. you should either get your combination professionally tuned (i.e. ecm reflashed) or get a programmer, of which there are two prominent choices. the first is a twEECer, and the second is an anderson ford motorsports piggy back tuner. another option is to get a standalone ecm, which is gonna cost about $2000. the twEEcer and the AFM tuner will cost less than $1000. the cheapest and easiest thing to do is go with carburetion. there is much debate regarding the pros and cons of carbs, but next time you are looking at a top fuel drag car, you will see that they use carbs. this is because a PROPERLY TUNED carb is nearly as efficient as an EFI setup, and MUCH easier to troubleshoot (check engine light, anyone?). you can look on ebay and get a flywheel from "the mustang depot" (just search TMD on ebay's front page) and get a flywheel for $75 plus shipping. you can keep your headers and x/h pipe, but since the 351 is a wider engine, you are going to have to work to get the pipes together.

a windsor-based block will not bolt directly into a mustang manufactured after 1995. the motor mounts are different due to the modular block configuration. if you want to put a windsor block into a 1996 and up mustang, you will need to install a k memeber from an sn95. the wiring harnesses are significantly different, largely due to the lack of a distributor in the modular engine family, but there are other issues as well. once again, the cheapest and eadiest route is to go with a carb.

just to qualify-i have a 351 in my 95 gt right now. i have a professional products dual plane intake, 650 speed demon, and 3" tall k&n filter. i installed a 3.5" cowl hood, and have about 1/4-1/2" of clearance between my hood and my filter lid. some extra clearance can be had by using drop motor mounts, but in my case, my canton oil pan is practically sitting on my rack as it is. my factory tube headers are bolted to a bbk off road x pipe. i had to use some canvas tie down straps to pull the x pipe apart so that i could attach it to my headers. i'm looking at swaping to equal length headers soon, so i'll have to go through that again. i guess i could fork over the cash for the swap headers, but they arent' equal length, so they're not much better than what i have.

to sum it up, the swap can be done. i'm not sure that it's cheaper than just going with a 347, though. it is only a difference of 4 cubes. considering that a rotating assembly can be had for about $700 (from ebay), a 347 may just be a better choice. now if you intend to stroke that 351, well i think that explains itself. sorry for the length. any questions, just email me, or pm me, whichever.

knucklefux

i forgot to mention this part. i think the mustang uses batch fire injection, meaning that each bank of injectors is fired at the same time, and the cobra has sequential, in which the injectors fire one at a time...but don't quote me on that.

95stang_low12s_motor

oil pane - have
balancer - have
flywheel - have
headers - long tube bbk 1519 - 1"5/8"
T-56
accesory brackets - what are these?
intake - i have upper and lower trick flow, lower only needs replacing?
hood - stalker cervini - about 2 inch higher
What other mods are necessary for a 95 gt to go from a 302 to a 351w?
(I have the B&B Tubular K Member and A arms, if that makes a mounting difference)


I just bought a 302 block and a 331 kit (eagle), and i am questioning my decision. I think i could of just got the 351 block and everything else for about the same cash - i paid $1000 for the 302 sportsman block, how much is the 351?

S351R13

They use sequential, not batch fire.

knucklefux

the accessory brackets are what holds the alternator, power steering pump, ac compressor, and smog pump, to the front of the engine. in 94-95 mustang, these will transfer directly from the 302 to the 351.

yes, you can just swap the lower trick flow intake for a piece disigned for use on a 351.

i doubt your hood is tall enough. the 2" hood will be enough to use the trick flow intake on a 302 block, but not a 351. you are going to need some drop motor mounts, such as those from a fox body convertible, or an aftermarket supplier-check ebay. even with the drop motor mounts, i would be surprised of the hood will work with a 351. i am not familiar with the tubular k member, it may help, but i don't know.

don't forget the tuning issues. you MUST do something with the factory ecm, it will not operate a 351w properly. you will need bigger injectors, a matching maf sensor, and a piggyback controller or a professional tune. if you go with the piggyback, you have to learn how to use it-sometimes this isn't too hard and others it's pure misery. also, remember that the increased cubes in the 351 moves the effective range of a 302 camshaft down in the rpm range. to compensate for this, you will need an aggressive 302 cam, which can cause issues like bent pushrods and worn out valve springs and guides-mainly due to the faster ramp rates of more agressive cams. also, most junkyard 351 blocks are not roller cam compatible. you will either have to buy link-bar lifters, or a retro-fit camshaft-which may have a different firing order than a 302. all in all, it is quite a daunting task to accumulate the necessary parts, and perform the swap itself. you are also going to have a hard time with your exhaust system. the 351 is wider, so you will have to force your x-pipe to open up wide enough to mate to your headers; if you leave your headers attached to the exhaust, you will have to pry them up to the heads. either way it's a pain in the ***. you can just buy the 351 swap headers from bbk-they are a little over 200.

if you include the cost of the necessary parts, possible paint and bodywork on a new hood, a pro tune-or ecm controller, and shear headache, a 331 is way cheaper. not to mention that since you have a sportsman block, you can get some form of forced induction and crank up the boost-and that will smoke any naturally aspirated 351.

sporstman 351 blocks costs about 1500-i think. the whole paragraph above becomes much simpler if you just convert from efi to carb. the biggest problem with that conversion is the ccrm (Constant Control Relay Module). it controls the ac compressor, high and low speed fan, fuel pump, and some other crap. it switched things on based on signals from the ecm. you will have to bypass the ccrm in order to make the carb swap work. if youwan tot go that route, i can tell you which wires need to be cut and spliced to relays that you install. a block of four relays can be had from jegs for 40.

as a side note, if you use the 331 and decide to go with forced induction, invest in a main girdle. you don't want to throw the crank.


i am one of the few in my city that has a 351 in a street driven mustang. if you are looking to be unique, there isn't a better way. if you just think that the 351 swap is gonna be easier or cheaper, you are mistaken. since you alreasy have the parts, i tink you would be better off with the 331. if you need any other info, just pm me. i'm glad to help.
i think that answers all of your questions.

knucklefux

my bad on the sfi

S351R13

If you use a stock K-member 94-95 or 96-98 V-6, you can slot the motor mouont holes an inch to inch and a half back and this will help with hood clearance. With a special motor mount you can fit a 351w with a 93 cobra upper under a stock flat SN-95 hood. 94-95 S-351's had stock hoods. When buying motor mounts the Ford vert mounts don't offer much of a drop anymore. If you have an original set of 83 vert mounts E3ZZ part number they lower the motor about 1/2 an inch or more. For the 94-95 you can get Hooker 351 swap headers. No one makes a set though that is emissons legal. A few years ago Ford Racing offered a set, OEM on the Cobra R, but they are no longer available.

knucklefux

explain to me how headers affect emissions. there is no such thing as some headers that will cause more emissions. they MIGHT fail a visual inspection, but the emissions from the vehicle shouldn't change. if you try slotting the k-member, you better have some adjustment left in your trans mount, or be prepared to do some mdofications there, too. if you use a double sump oil pan, the front sump may contact the rack, depending on the dimensions of the pan. i'm not sure what saleen did to squeeze a 351 under a stock hood, and to me the hood on an s351 looks more like a heat extractor hood. bbk p/n 1511 is a shorty 351 swap header. unless you have an inspector who knows the difference between stock tubular headers and the bbk ones, you shouldn't have a problem.

i know all of this because i have a 351 in a 95 gt. my carb won't fit under the stock hood, much less a 9" tall efi intake.