Opinions needed for my 351w build
#1
Opinions needed for my 351w build
Hello all,
I recently acquired a complete 351w out of a 69 Mach 1. I am not sure if the engine runs or not (was told that it ran, but you never know), but wanted to do a simple rebuild to get my 66 mustang back on the road. Originally I wanted to go all out (forged guts and the whole works) and realized that at this moment in my life and trying to save for a house, I don’t have $5 – 10k to spend. Plus, if I had a 600hp beast, I would need to upgrade my brakes, trans, and rear which could be another $5k.
Soooo this is where I need your opinion… This is what I want to do:
- Buy a simple engine rebuild/ Re-ring kit from summit for $185. Hone the cylinder bores and rebuild the engine myself.
- COMP Cams Thumpr hydraulic Flat Tappet cam and lifters, etc. $379.
- 200cc/ 64cc chambers alum heads that are assembled. built buy a local builder $650 – not ported.
- Edelbrock or Holley carb.
- Etc.
Do you think this would be a good route to get my 66 back on the road without spending big bucks and blowing up the rear or trans?
I am looking to get close to 400 hp with the set up. Do you think its doable?
Any recommendations?
How much does the typical machine shop charge if machining was needed?
Extra info: my 66 has drums on all 4 corners, Ford HD T-5, and an 8” auburn pro built diff with 3.90 gears. Trying to keep the budget under $2k.
P.S. I have spent several days on this forum looking for info.
I recently acquired a complete 351w out of a 69 Mach 1. I am not sure if the engine runs or not (was told that it ran, but you never know), but wanted to do a simple rebuild to get my 66 mustang back on the road. Originally I wanted to go all out (forged guts and the whole works) and realized that at this moment in my life and trying to save for a house, I don’t have $5 – 10k to spend. Plus, if I had a 600hp beast, I would need to upgrade my brakes, trans, and rear which could be another $5k.
Soooo this is where I need your opinion… This is what I want to do:
- Buy a simple engine rebuild/ Re-ring kit from summit for $185. Hone the cylinder bores and rebuild the engine myself.
- COMP Cams Thumpr hydraulic Flat Tappet cam and lifters, etc. $379.
- 200cc/ 64cc chambers alum heads that are assembled. built buy a local builder $650 – not ported.
- Edelbrock or Holley carb.
- Etc.
Do you think this would be a good route to get my 66 back on the road without spending big bucks and blowing up the rear or trans?
I am looking to get close to 400 hp with the set up. Do you think its doable?
Any recommendations?
How much does the typical machine shop charge if machining was needed?
Extra info: my 66 has drums on all 4 corners, Ford HD T-5, and an 8” auburn pro built diff with 3.90 gears. Trying to keep the budget under $2k.
P.S. I have spent several days on this forum looking for info.
#2
actually im on the same path with my 70, and my aim is simply 300rwhp, i ended turning it into a clevor motor. those heads are salty i dont think you will get where you want to be, if you just eye up craigslist for a few weeks you will land better deals and cheaper prices your block might need a bore. for 400hp crank or rw? new heads, cam at least a 650dp carb, intake and rebuild. your going to need aftermarket support. but for 2k i think its possible again use craigslist
#3
What's a clevor motor? Are you talking about a Cleavland? if so, I think I will have shock tower clearance issues.
Everything will be aftermarket for except for the pistons, rods, and crank. I would like for 400rwhp from what I pan to do. Heads and cam are should almost be enough to get to that point.
Everything will be aftermarket for except for the pistons, rods, and crank. I would like for 400rwhp from what I pan to do. Heads and cam are should almost be enough to get to that point.
#4
clevor motor= cleveland heads and windsor block. keeping stock bottom end might be iffy, but to get a better answer i would simply call up jegs or summit explain to them your goal they could help with your build greatly heads cam intake carb and headers pending on your pick and choose might make for a bad combo. i know the bragging right of having a nice mach 1 motor, but honestly there is so much more potential from the 94 and newer blocks because of their roller cams give you wider selection on your build but again you already have the motor so this might not be an option.
Last edited by stangowner8687; 01-16-2010 at 03:20 AM.
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