About to give up.
#1
About to give up.
3 months ago I purchased a Used 2005 Mustang 4.0 V6 with 82k miles. The car ran like a champ, with no issues for three months. One day I left for work and got a mile away from my house, and all the sudden it started running rough like it was missing cylinders.
I went through the normal, replacing the plugs, plug wires and coil pack, with absolutely no change. The car is still running rough and almost sounds like a vacuum leak inside the intake manifold, as a pulsing hissing. No vacuum leak could be found.
The missing is through out the whole throttle range, but the car pegs and bounces at 4500 rpm.
I gave up and took the car to mineke. They had the car for a few days, charged me $300 to remove and replace the intake, and replace the PCV Valve. No change. The claim the only code the car is throwing is for the Manifold Intake Pressure. I was also told to come pick up my car because their mechanic quit. so I don't even know if all the information I was given was accurate
My car does not have a MAP sensor, just the MAF sensor. And I am at the end of my rope with this thing. Anyone got some insight or suffered similar circumstance that can help?
I went through the normal, replacing the plugs, plug wires and coil pack, with absolutely no change. The car is still running rough and almost sounds like a vacuum leak inside the intake manifold, as a pulsing hissing. No vacuum leak could be found.
The missing is through out the whole throttle range, but the car pegs and bounces at 4500 rpm.
I gave up and took the car to mineke. They had the car for a few days, charged me $300 to remove and replace the intake, and replace the PCV Valve. No change. The claim the only code the car is throwing is for the Manifold Intake Pressure. I was also told to come pick up my car because their mechanic quit. so I don't even know if all the information I was given was accurate
My car does not have a MAP sensor, just the MAF sensor. And I am at the end of my rope with this thing. Anyone got some insight or suffered similar circumstance that can help?
#2
I dont know if this helps. I did my google and you tube searches.
If I unplug the MAF sensor while the car is running, the car immediately dies
I unplugged all the vacuum hoses, and there was an immediate and noticeable difference.
I unplugged the EGR valve and the RGR valve hoses, with no change at all to the way the car was running.
If I unplug the MAF sensor while the car is running, the car immediately dies
I unplugged all the vacuum hoses, and there was an immediate and noticeable difference.
I unplugged the EGR valve and the RGR valve hoses, with no change at all to the way the car was running.
#4
most likely your MAF sensor, sounds very similar to mine when it went out. Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor?
It maxing out at 4500 rpm means its in limp mode (safe mode) because there is an issue. I would try cleaning the MAF and if that does not work take it to a dealership.
Are you able to notice if Meinekie actually did the repair they claim?
It maxing out at 4500 rpm means its in limp mode (safe mode) because there is an issue. I would try cleaning the MAF and if that does not work take it to a dealership.
Are you able to notice if Meinekie actually did the repair they claim?
#5
most likely your MAF sensor, sounds very similar to mine when it went out. Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor?
It maxing out at 4500 rpm means its in limp mode (safe mode) because there is an issue. I would try cleaning the MAF and if that does not work take it to a dealership.
Are you able to notice if Meinekie actually did the repair they claim?
It maxing out at 4500 rpm means its in limp mode (safe mode) because there is an issue. I would try cleaning the MAF and if that does not work take it to a dealership.
Are you able to notice if Meinekie actually did the repair they claim?
I did attrempt to clean the MAF with no change. The car does die if you pull the mad plug while running, which from my understanding means it is functioning.
I did schedule an appoint ment with a Ford dealership for tommorow morning. I may have to sell one of the kids to pay for it, by hopefully I will finally get it fixed.
Thanks for the help.
#6
I actually do not believe anything Meineke had to say. Which is sad. I am fairly new to Vegas and they did an awesome job a few weeks ago with replacing my rack and pinion, wheel bearings and some other repairs.
I did attrempt to clean the MAF with no change. The car does die if you pull the mad plug while running, which from my understanding means it is functioning.
I did schedule an appoint ment with a Ford dealership for tommorow morning. I may have to sell one of the kids to pay for it, by hopefully I will finally get it fixed.
Thanks for the help.
I did attrempt to clean the MAF with no change. The car does die if you pull the mad plug while running, which from my understanding means it is functioning.
I did schedule an appoint ment with a Ford dealership for tommorow morning. I may have to sell one of the kids to pay for it, by hopefully I will finally get it fixed.
Thanks for the help.
#7
So the problems started occurring after they did some "repairs". Sounds like they either didn't fully reconnect a sensor or severly damaged a wire that has now broke.
#8
Hello everyone, I thought I would give an update. After all the drama, 2 different shops and way too much money in labor charges, it turned out the problem was an $11 valve spring. Never made a sound, and the only codes were for the intake manifold, but it was the valve spring. Now the car is back to running and I can start planning on upgrades. Thanks again for all the help!
#10
Apparently the whole time it was a broken valve spring on the #4 cylinder. It was blowing back into the intake throwing all the sensors and sounding like a vacuum leak. Replaced the spring, fired right up and all the codes cleared. Frustrating part was getting the bill for $598 in labor, and $11 in parts.