You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Well decided to go with headers. Now I'm trying to decide to witch one to go with. I was looking at long tubes they are more expensive and cost more to put in. And I will have to change out my xpipe. But whenI did some searching on the net every site said around 15 to 20 hp gain is this correct. Also read that shorties don't realy give much more than stock. If the hp gain is acurate then it would be worth the expected price of around $1200 installed. If not I wonder how much it would cost to install some stage one cames or even stage two. And no I don't want to go FI.
This ad is not displayed to registered or logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Mustang Forums!
__________________
04 gt with o/r xpipe, flowmaster exhaust, 373 gears, acufab plenium an t/b 70mm, and cai, sct xcal 3 tune,maf 90mm, and triax shifter,subframe connectors,steeda udp,Steeda upper and lower control arms. 8.87 seconds in the 1/8th.
if you are going to change the stock manifolds, then go with the LT's. shorties dont provide much of a gain for the several hundred you would spend to get them and have them installed...plus they provide a tad bit bigger gain than the shorties. personally i cant see spending close to $1k for 15hp from longtubes. which is why i dont have them.
i would much rather take that $1k and get a nice nitrous kit and get 100hp out of my $1k instead od 10-15hp.
__________________
Tokico HP Blues - shocks & struts, ford racing "c" springs
You are getting incorrect information. We beat this topic to death on another forum. And its been discussed on this forumas well. What started the discussion was a post where before and after dynos (over a stock exhaust) showed only a 7 rwhp gain. Before and after dyno runs show that long-tube headers, mid-pipe and a tune (all three) will get you 7-20 rwhp depending upon other mods and the tune. You already have a mid-pipe so you will not see that much gain over your current setup. Since I believe that the mid-pipe is most of the gain, you might see a 3-4 rwhp gain for your $1200. Shorty headers are not totally useless. They increase mid-range torque which increases overall performance.
__________________
370 rwhp/377 rwtq
Procharger P1SC; BBK 75mm TB/Plenum
BBK LT Headers/catted mid-pipe
Miezere Electric Water Pump
13" Cobra brakes
What you should do is establish your goals for your car. (Will use it for drag racing, autocrossing, show, daily driver, other? How much power do you want to make? What route will you take to achieve that power level: N/A, blower, turbo, nitrous? How well do you want it to handle?) Establish an overall budget and think about your cash flow so you can plan your purchases. Once you have your goals and budget defined, choose your parts so that everything is designed to work together. Keep in mind how much power the various parts can handle and identify everything that needs to be upgraded.
A lot of people just start throwing parts on their car to "make it faster" without having an overall vision and end up wasting money when they buy the same parts over again (e.g. - you have to replace the h-pipe because you suddenly decided to go with long tube headers - been there, done that). If you have deep pockets, that's not necessarily a bad thing since other guys with not-so-deep pockets will benefit when you resell your parts cheap because you bought something that you can't use with your new combo.
</personal opinion>
__________________
97 Cobra
Ported and polished aluminum ashtray
Titanium lugnuts
5 hp window motors
Full synthetic antifreeze
LT headers provide most of their benefit between 2500 and 4500 rpm where scavenging is most effective, this makestalking aboutpeak HP only whendiscussing tuned headersmeaningless. [/align][/align]You need to examine the entire torque curve to make any sort meaningful analysis of their benefit, I would gladly trade 10 HP just before I shift for 10 HP at 3k rpm where you canactually use it.[/align]
__________________
-cliff knight- My Mustang
2003 GT, UPR X, Magnaflow, 180° stat,
PP 70mm TB & plenum, Sniper tuned
3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 ft.lb.
Multi-fuel: burns gas and rubber...
Lt's you get the power and the sound. Idk know how you are but im big on sound plus why not go all out if your gonna go for the pita header install you might as well get the most out if it.
__________________
npi block compression 10.6:1
stage I ported pi heads/stage I comp cams/PI intake/24# injectors
Cobra oil pump/High output water pump/Mac UD Pullies
Exhaust/Intake:
MAC LT headers/O/r H-pipe/American Thunder catback
p&p tb-pl/C&L cai
Drivetrain:
King Cobra Clutch/Motive 4.10's/Steeda Pro 5.0
Suspension/Tires:
Black cobra r 275/40
Conservative 87/89 Dyno
290rwhp 320rwtq
Next up:
Upr+lwr Control arms & subframe connectors
What you should do is establish your goals for your car. (Will use it for drag racing, autocrossing, show, daily driver, other? How much power do you want to make? What route will you take to achieve that power level: N/A, blower, turbo, nitrous? How well do you want it to handle?) Establish an overall budget and think about your cash flow so you can plan your purchases. Once you have your goals and budget defined, choose your parts so that everything is designed to work together. Keep in mind how much power the various parts can handle and identify everything that needs to be upgraded.
A lot of people just start throwing parts on their car to "make it faster" without having an overall vision and end up wasting money when they buy the same parts over again (e.g. - you have to replace the h-pipe because you suddenly decided to go with long tube headers - been there, done that). If you have deep pockets, that's not necessarily a bad thing since other guys with not-so-deep pockets will benefit when you resell your parts cheap because you bought something that you can't use with your new combo.
</personal opinion>
Excellent advice. Make a plan, build to the plan. I read a post once about a guy who put a in a forged stroker kit, heads, and a high performance cam and was very disappointed with the numbers. He didn't realize that the stroker kit was for more for low end torque, the heads he picked were more mid-range, and his cam was for high rpm performance. All were performance enhancing parts that are often discussed on these forums. He just didn't think about how they would perform together.
__________________
370 rwhp/377 rwtq
Procharger P1SC; BBK 75mm TB/Plenum
BBK LT Headers/catted mid-pipe
Miezere Electric Water Pump
13" Cobra brakes
What you should do is establish your goals for your car. (Will use it for drag racing, autocrossing, show, daily driver, other? How much power do you want to make? What route will you take to achieve that power level: N/A, blower, turbo, nitrous? How well do you want it to handle?) Establish an overall budget and think about your cash flow so you can plan your purchases. Once you have your goals and budget defined, choose your parts so that everything is designed to work together. Keep in mind how much power the various parts can handle and identify everything that needs to be upgraded.
A lot of people just start throwing parts on their car to "make it faster" without having an overall vision and end up wasting money when they buy the same parts over again (e.g. - you have to replace the h-pipe because you suddenly decided to go with long tube headers - been there, done that). If you have deep pockets, that's not necessarily a bad thing since other guys with not-so-deep pockets will benefit when you resell your parts cheap because you bought something that you can't use with your new combo.
</personal opinion>
+1 again. I have an excel spreadsheet with everything I want, prioritized, with price and seller info where possible. I also take into account which items should be purchased in groups (wheels/tires, gears/tuner, tb/plenum) on in a particular order so that it makes sense. I also have planned group installation (heads, cams, headers) to that I save on labor charges unless I do the work myself.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company