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Old 04-23-2012, 06:54 PM   #11
kingrukus
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Since I plan to change plugs more frequently than 100k miles, should I use anti-sieze? will anti-sieze create an error in the torque reading?
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Old 04-23-2012, 06:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
If I did not have a proper torque wrench (a situation I cannot envision), and given the many years I have been doing this sort of work, like JC316 I too would likely torque them based upon "feel". However I would not recommend, or support such a recommendation, being made to anyone else.


Get a 1/4" drive torque wrench, an 8" extension, a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter, and a decent plug socket (Google "extended spark plug socket").
+1! That is the exact torque wrench I bought for the job. Used some Antiseize, set the torque at 12lbs, and havent had an issue yet. I did my plugs at the same time I changed my injectors. Easy job, as long as you dont try and short cut and use you brain.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:01 PM   #13
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Any tips for removing plugs that have never been changed before? Car is 12 years old, but only has 48k miles on it. Perhaps I shouldnt even bother changing them since they are supposed to last 100k miles? The age worries me however.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingrukus View Post
Since I plan to change plugs more frequently than 100k miles, should I use anti-sieze? *will anti-sieze create an error in the torque reading?
It will, however not enough to make any difference at such a low torque. The plug has a M14 thread which if used as a fastener would be torqued to 40 to 45 lb-ft. At 11 to 15 lb-ft the effect of the lubricant is negligible.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kingrukus View Post
Any tips for removing plugs that have never been changed before? Car is 12 years old, but only has 48k miles on it. Perhaps I shouldnt even bother changing them since they are supposed to last 100k miles? The age worries me however.
I would not change them until 85k or more, unlike the fluids spark plugs are one of the things on an engine where age is not a significant concern.

What you should change are the fluids, rear-end, tranny, brake and p/s fluid, and coolant...
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Last edited by cliffyk; 04-23-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
It will, however not enough to make any difference at such a low torque. The plug has a M14 thread which if used as a fastener would be torqued to 40 to 45 lb-ft. At 11 to 15 lb-ft the effect of the lubricant is negligible.




I would not change them until 85k or more, unlike the fluids spark plugs are one of the things on an engine where age is not a significant concern.

What you should change are the fluids, rear-end, tranny, brake and p/s fluid, and coolant...
Thanks. Your website (paladinmicro.com) is also very helpful!
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:45 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
If I did not have a proper torque wrench (a situation I cannot envision), and given the many years I have been doing this sort of work, like JC316 I too would likely torque them based upon "feel". However I would not recommend, or support such a recommendation, being made to anyone else.

It would be quite unwise to not torque the plugs on these engines for at least a couple of reasons; the use of tapered seat plugs in plug bores with minimal threading, and that it is almost commonplace for our engines to spit out plugs that were like not torqued properly or installed in bores damaged by over-torquing in the past.
Done quite a few of these 4.6L motors and I have lost count of how many other engines I have done without a torque wrench and I have yet to have a plug spit out on me. Stuff like head bolts and intake bolts. the torque wrench comes out, but I just never think about it on spark plugs.
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Old 04-24-2012, 05:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Done quite a few of these 4.6L motors and I have lost count of how many other engines I have done without a torque wrench and I have yet to have a plug spit out on me. Stuff like head bolts and intake bolts. the torque wrench comes out, but I just never think about it on spark plugs.
You are obviously an experienced mechanic, quite different thing from telling someone on a forum that they do not need to use a torque wrench--"crank em down till they are tight." I install them all snugly, then it takes less than a minute to torque all 8.

Not using a torque wrench on spark plugs would get a mechanic at a FAA certified repair station fired...
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Old 04-24-2012, 08:52 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
You are obviously an experienced mechanic, quite different thing from telling someone on a forum that they do not need to use a torque wrench--"crank em down till they are tight." I install them all snugly, then it takes less than a minute to torque all 8.

Not using a torque wrench on spark plugs would get a mechanic at a FAA certified repair station fired...

I guess thats the difference between spark plugs at ground level and spark plugs at 13,000 feet eh?
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:35 PM   #19
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On all nissan's and hondas, I always would put plugs in until they felt slightly snug, then added 1/4 turn. I suppose this rule doesn't apply to these 2v Fords eh?
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:27 AM   #20
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Snug plus 1/16th turn for tapered seat plugs--this is from NGK installation guide (Section 2, click here)

Quote:
3. Tighten the spark plug finger tight until the gasket reaches the cylinder head, then tighten about 1/2-2/3 turn more with a spark plug wrench.
(Taper seat: About 1/16 turn more).
Here's a link to a test I did a while back, an additional 1/4 turn requires over 45 lb-ft--I.e. WAY too tight:

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:27 AM
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