hpwrestler220

Well my car has been refusing to stay running at idle for the past couple of weeks.

-About 2 weeks ago, i went to start the car and it turned over but then died.. After it died, I started it with the throttle down and it started up, but then died once i let off the gas. I did the same thing for my 3rd attempt (throttle down), but kept the throttle pulsing and it eventually stayed running once i got off the throttle.

-The last couple of days, the car has been having the same problem. I start it up, it turns over, than it instantly falls flat on its face. It only stays running if i hold the throttle, but once i let off the throttle, it dies again..

After a couple people pointing me in the right direction, and a little bit of searching, i believe that it is my IAC valve.

Now listen - I heard that if you take the IAC valve off, but keep the harness connected and turn the key to the "ON" position, you will be able to see the IAC butterfly valve turn inside the IAC. I looked today and the IAC valve would NOT budge. I felt the electrical current going through the IAC valve, but the butterfly valve will not budge a bit.

I tried to clean out the IAC valve by using some carb cleaner and WD40, but both attempts failed. I let both of those substances sit in the IAC valve for about 5-10 minutes, and then i tried to see if the ubtterfly valve would move when turning the key to the "ON" position, but it still wouldn't budge.

Is this true that if the valve inside of the IAC will not turn, that i probably need to get a new one? I heard that it is SUPPOSED to turn in order for the car to idle.. If it sticks, i need a new one.

Can somebody shed some light please?

Thanks for reading. Kinda long, but interesting nonetheless.

smitty2919

im not totally sure how exactly the IAC works in terms of butterfiles and whatnot. but i would say to get a new one, if it idles right then problem solved. if you read/heard its supposed to open and it doesnt, then i would say a bad IAC...

hpwrestler220

Well i am pretty sure that i read what i read on this thread..
https://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6-...-cruising.html
but i can't seem to find where it is in the thread again..

I just need some confirmation that the IAC valve is supposed to move when the key is turned to the on position. because mine didn't budge for sh*tttt

smitty2919

well for the cost of a IAC id just go get one and see if that butterfly moves... if it does then put it on.thats prob your fix, if it doesnt then keep it for a while until you find the culprit and return it later.


will prob run you less than $100....worth a try

hpwrestler220

Yeah i guess i can always just get it and return it if it didnt fix the problem lol..

Here is the exact link i found out about turning the key to the "on" position.
http://www.2carpros.com/how_does_it_..._iac_works.htm

I didnt SEE anything move, but i felt the electrical surge of the IAC when my father turned the key to the on position..

smitty2919

after reading that i still say get a new one and go from there

Black*Death

I believe you can buy a voltmeter and test the electrical signal. You think the mechanical part has failed? ..... If you truely need one, try a used one from someone parting out an engine. likely much cheaper

smitty2919

i wouldnt buy used electronic/mechanical parts such as a IAC...its not that expensive to grab a new one and you dont have to worry about it going bad more often than a "used" one would...

bopiela

ive seen them priced out from a couple distributors and rock auto in the low 60's. also murrays (o'reillys) gave me a price of mid 60's i think when i was looking into that. mine worked much better after cleaning it, so i didnt need a new one. but since urs didnt clear up at all, call ur auto parts store. see what they got.

Z28KLR

Someone around here on a related thread recently mentioned that IAC's aren't serviceable, and the only real answer is replacement.