nagata

I want to make a few adjustments/improvements to my 96 GT's suspension. My main goal at this time is to tighten up the whole car, improve the rear end a bit since it's BAD, and I'd like to drop it down a bit.

So, after hours of reading, I'm more or less decided on the following: Maximum Motorsports full length SFCs, Maximum Motorsports Extreme-Duty LCAs w/spring perch & sway bar mounts (X-D for the spherical bushings), and Steeda Sport springs w/ new ISOs all around (which will supposedly yield 1-1.25" of drop, and that's all I want). Not overly important, but I'm also planning to switch to Saleen SC wheels, 17x9 front & 17x10 rear, with 245/45s on the front and 285/40s on the rear.

However, I do have a bit of hesitation resulting from the fact that I have BBK long tubes; I've read about some people having serious clearance problems when they lowered w/ LTs, even mild like 1", but then others say they've dropped 1.5" or more and had no issues. Is this just a case by case issue? I finally went to my storage location and measured the lowest point as best I could (just about positive it's the bottom of the LT collector), and I measured ~4" of clearance. Given that the average speed bump is ~3" tall (some 4"), I'm concerned that I may run into an issue if I go even 1" lower, more if the possibility of 1.25" is reality. I've never run into any clearance issues at the stock height with the LTs, I don't have any outrageous bumps or inclines that I regularly traverse, but there are some bad roads around and speed bumps are a fact of life; chance of issues should be low, but still, smashing up the LTs would certainly put a damper on things.

Will new ISO all around keep the amount of total drop closer to 1" if I go with the Steeda Sports? I'm leaning toward the Steedas because I've seen the least complaints of uneven ride height, and most people report around or slightly more than 1" of drop. I thought about the Ford Racing springs, but read several accounts of virtually no drop whatsoever, and if that's the case, what's the point? Suggestions? Thoughts? Don't bother risking it? I had someone recommend going with adjustable LCAs, but with the lowest point being closer to the front, I don't think having the rear higher is gonna do much good, and while I don't mind a slightly slopped stance, I prefer it to be flat and even. Any input is appreciated!

StriderTacticaL

I have the MM XL series SFC's and MM XD LCA's and they are fantastic. Forget about getting the adjustable LCA's, it's not really needed. I also have recently installed lakewood 50/50's and it made the rear feel so much better at the track.

As far as the springs, it's really up to what you wanna try. I've heard good things about the steeda sports but I would rather go with the FRPP B springs since they are softer in the front compared to the Steedas.

nagata

Thanks Strider, it's always good to hear that people are very satisfied with mods! I'll look into the B springs some, all I've really read about are the C springs I believe. My goal is really a 1" drop if I can do it and not have too much issue with clearance.

StriderTacticaL

A 1" drop sounds good...thats sort of what I am going for...and even less at the back... 1/2" to 3/4", i'm probabbly gonna go with stock Mach 1/bullitt/FRPP B or C rear springs for that.

Yeah it seems that the FRPP B/C springs don't lower the car too much but I've seen lots of pics of them and every car seems to sit differently. I don't think it would be such a bad idea to try the B springs out, just use your stock iso's if you can since new/polyurethane isolators tend to raise the car about a 1/4 inch. These springs also supposedly ride pretty well and almost like stock. They also seem to be pretty decent for the track....

Jazzer The Cat

Nagata... when you say you want to tighten up the whole car, what are you goals here?

I will start as a DD and address the general sloppy nature of the SN95 suspension components. I agree with the very FIRST thing one should do, reguardless of ultimate goals for suspension, is FLSFC's and great to see on your list. This will tighten up the entire car, limit door alignment issues over time and be benificial to help reduce the amount of rattles and such that the Mustang will aquire over time. Your second item is also good, as they will help to reduce some of the "quadra-bind" effects out back. Your drop is a very practicle one and will not have any major issues, but will have to pay more attention to the dimensions of speed bumps and steep driveway entrance/exits. You currently have 4" under your LT's, I have about 2.5" under my whole car and go just about anywhere. I have had several occasions where I needed to back-up or go around an alternate route due to speed bumps and these driveways, but just have to live with it. I don't have LT's, but seems to me these are pretty much between the front wheels, so in theory, you should not have much issue anyway as they will go up as your tires do (could be off the mark here, not sure)

Depending on your ULTIMATE goals for suspension, the next step needs to be decided as quartering and quarnering are different directions via shocks/springs/struts and tires.

Jazzer

SteedaGus

Just out of curiousity, what made you choose MM full length subframes over ours? Was it price? Cause theirs will cost more in time for the DIY or labor if you are paying someone to do it since they dont pre-weld any of the attachment tabs to the subframe connector, they leave that to the welder. They also dont have the torque box reinforcement we do.....

nagata

Great question Jazzer. The end all, be all, ULTIMATE goal for this car is a decently streetable corner carver w/ around 400 RWHP & similar torque. A suspension set up primarily for hitting the twisties (and maybe track days eventually), that will, by the nature of its high quality components and high performance focus, allow me to hit the drag strip REASONABLY well; I know it will never be a strip monster, and I won't get the best launches and 60' times, but I also shouldn't have to worry about breaking parts because I'm launching like a rocket. I want to be reasonable, in that I want to be able to drive this car on the street for longer distances without killing my back. I know I'm talking about a car that's a jack of all trades, master of none, but that's honestly what I'm looking for. The ultimate goal may never be realized, but I want to keep it in mind.

In the end, like I said, there's a long-term goal of a full suspension rebuild. To better explain my immediate desire, I want to get rid of the inherent flex that these cars have (through FL SFCs), and improve the rear a bit to get better traction and make it more predictable. I want to make the car feel more solid and sure footed, as it just feels somewhat "loose" as it sits stock. As such, my understanding is that the FL SFCs will really solidify the chassis; the LCAs w/ spherical bushings will flex less and eliminate some of the inherent binding of the axle, providing improved feel, linear performance (ie predictable), better traction, and better power transfer. Additionally, lowering the car 1" w/ springs that have reasonable rates (650 lb/in front, 200-250 lb/in rear, which I believe is close to stock though I haven't found specific stock numbers) will bring down the roll center just a bit and reduce any body roll; better appearance is probably the biggest benefit I'll get from the springs. Hopefully I'll see overall traction improvement and some braking improvement from these mods.

I want to keep close to stock spring rates to maintain decent ride quality and because I'm not doing shocks/struts right now, given my eventual goal of coil-overs. I'm limiting the drop to 1" to minimize clearance issues and keep the suspension geometry reasonable, so I shouldn't have to deal with C/C plates or a bumpsteer kit. New ISOs should help keep the drop at or just under 1", so that's the route I'm leaning towards.

mrtstang

I'm running BBK long tubes with a 1.5" drop, and no clearence issues to speak of. I don't think the BBK's run any lower than others from what i've seen.

nagata

Honestly, I've chosen MM FL SFCs mostly based on seeing the most positive reviews and recommendations on them. I can't say that I've read bad things about Steeda FL SFCs, but I've not seen nearly as many recommendations for them, not as many testimonials.

Are the pre-welded on attachment tabs guaranteed to locate the FL SFCs exactly where they need to be, or might they end up needing to be tweaked during installation? Could tabs welded on during installation allow a more precise installation, less forcing the pre-fabbed piece to fit? I ask because I'm no expert, but I know that pre-fabbed pieces don't always fit perfectly, and could see the underside of a 15 year old car being different from the day it rolled off the assembly line.

Jazzer The Cat

Nagata.... take a look at my suspension guide and get an idea of what is involved in the route you want to take. This is an expensive road to do it correctly, but will blow you away with the results that can be had.

I would recommend you look into a PHB or WL with a TA to really tame that rear end and eat the twisties alive

Jazzer