Oil Oil Oil. . .
#1
Oil Oil Oil. . .
I've been stickin with Motorcraft oil sense ive owned my '00 GT(about 25,000 miles). Thinkin about changin oil, but I've heard you have to run stuff through your car to get the other brand oil and and then put the new brand in and jump through all these damn hoops. My questions are: Do you really need to do that if you change oil brand, and if I were to change the kind of oil I use, what should I switch to? Or should I just stick to good ol' motorcraft?
#5
#6
I have heard that too, but not from any credible sources, not unless u conscider the 18 year old working at autozone to be a credible source. It doesn't seem to make any sense to me why one couldn't change between synth. to regular or vise versa.
#8
I learned quite a bit from a GM powertrain engineer about oil.
All SM spec oil is basically semi synthetic even if it doesn't say it, and the SM spec is so tight it doesn't really matter whose name is on the bottle anymore.
Only other option is a high ZDDP oil like a racing or diesel spec, SM foced the level of ZDDP into the basement for cat converter reasons.
IMHO - for a regular daily driver use whatever floats your boat, if racing a lot use a diesel or racing spec. Rotella straight 30W is the easiest and cheapest high ZDDP oil to find now, I use it in most everything but I would not use it if the temp is below freezing.
All SM spec oil is basically semi synthetic even if it doesn't say it, and the SM spec is so tight it doesn't really matter whose name is on the bottle anymore.
Only other option is a high ZDDP oil like a racing or diesel spec, SM foced the level of ZDDP into the basement for cat converter reasons.
IMHO - for a regular daily driver use whatever floats your boat, if racing a lot use a diesel or racing spec. Rotella straight 30W is the easiest and cheapest high ZDDP oil to find now, I use it in most everything but I would not use it if the temp is below freezing.
#9
I learned quite a bit from a GM powertrain engineer about oil.
All SM spec oil is basically semi synthetic even if it doesn't say it, and the SM spec is so tight it doesn't really matter whose name is on the bottle anymore.
Only other option is a high ZDDP oil like a racing or diesel spec, SM foced the level of ZDDP into the basement for cat converter reasons.
IMHO - for a regular daily driver use whatever floats your boat, if racing a lot use a diesel or racing spec. Rotella straight 30W is the easiest and cheapest high ZDDP oil to find now, I use it in most everything but I would not use it if the temp is below freezing.
All SM spec oil is basically semi synthetic even if it doesn't say it, and the SM spec is so tight it doesn't really matter whose name is on the bottle anymore.
Only other option is a high ZDDP oil like a racing or diesel spec, SM foced the level of ZDDP into the basement for cat converter reasons.
IMHO - for a regular daily driver use whatever floats your boat, if racing a lot use a diesel or racing spec. Rotella straight 30W is the easiest and cheapest high ZDDP oil to find now, I use it in most everything but I would not use it if the temp is below freezing.
Is ZDPP really relevant to our modular motors? I always thought the amount of this in an oil was more important when using the oild in an older push rod type motors with flat tappet cams and such. I had considered moving to diesel syn oil because of the zdpp debate but am not really sure it's relevant. I don't drive my GT often but when I do I make it worth while and tend to drive it pretty hard ya know. I'm not very easy on it and longevity concerns me when picking my oil. I am currently running Castrol Edge. Also as far as running straight 30w, isn't that bad in these cars? Aren't they to tight of a tolerance motor to be running straight 30w? Any insight you guys have would be great for both me and my hard driven stang I know I should take it easier on her but, hell that's why Ford built them !