RODS AND PISTONS...OR CRANK TOO??
#1
RODS AND PISTONS...OR CRANK TOO??
im rebuilding a 2v windsor out of a 99 GT. should i purchase the entire assembly? (forged crank, rods, pistons, rings, bolts and balance) or should i leave the stock crank and get everything else.
this is being rebuilt due to a rod knock. i havent pulled the crank yet to know whether it needs to be replaced yet. assuming the crank is in good working order, should i still purchace a new one or should i leave it and get the rest. (price difference of $800)
also... are the bolts on the camshaft cap clusters torque-to-yield??
this is being rebuilt due to a rod knock. i havent pulled the crank yet to know whether it needs to be replaced yet. assuming the crank is in good working order, should i still purchace a new one or should i leave it and get the rest. (price difference of $800)
also... are the bolts on the camshaft cap clusters torque-to-yield??
#2
There was a post on here the other day and i remember a lot of people saying that the rods and pistons are the only really weak point on our motors until you really get up there with the hp. It all depends on your plans. If you have the money for it honestly i would spend the $800.
#5
i went through the same question about 2 weeks ago. honestly, you can get a forged cobra crank WAY cheaper than $800. I just bought a BRAND NEW 8 bolt cobra crank on corral for $300 shipped. The guy even gave me the 8 bolt flex plate considering I'm a built auto. Now all i need is forged rods/pistons. I wasn't going to go forged crank, but like said just to be safe...why not? your going to kick yourself to know after building yout motor, that your limited to 600 hp.
#6
I agree that swapping to a forged crank now could save you headaches and potentially money in the future. If there does ever come a day where you have extra cash laying around you feel like dropping into the car for some insane numbers, it'd be easier to do the work now while the engines out, than have to repeat the process all over again. If you really look around, you should be able to find a decent priced forged crank. You could probably even find a used one, and as long as it checks out okay at a machine shop, you're good to go.
#7
im rebuilding a 2v windsor out of a 99 GT. should i purchase the entire assembly? (forged crank, rods, pistons, rings, bolts and balance) or should i leave the stock crank and get everything else.
this is being rebuilt due to a rod knock. i havent pulled the crank yet to know whether it needs to be replaced yet. assuming the crank is in good working order, should i still purchace a new one or should i leave it and get the rest. (price difference of $800)
also... are the bolts on the camshaft cap clusters torque-to-yield??
this is being rebuilt due to a rod knock. i havent pulled the crank yet to know whether it needs to be replaced yet. assuming the crank is in good working order, should i still purchace a new one or should i leave it and get the rest. (price difference of $800)
also... are the bolts on the camshaft cap clusters torque-to-yield??
#9
just went through this with a MMR engine. I stayed with cast crank because I plan on going with a 2.1 KB and staying just under 600 hp. I saw a good sale on a forged rotating assembly before they started my build and asked about paying the diff for a forged crank. (around 300). From what I was told the build price would have went up closer to 800 based on the balancing.
By the way engine shipped across country in about 5 days, but has been stuck in Norfolk for a week (30 miles away) While they catch up on all the delays they have had from bad weather. Can't stand it.
By the way engine shipped across country in about 5 days, but has been stuck in Norfolk for a week (30 miles away) While they catch up on all the delays they have had from bad weather. Can't stand it.
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