What should my new mod be?
03-19-2011, 09:22 AM
#1
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 102
What should my new mod be?
Car is a red 2002 automatic GT.
Current mods are
FRPP aluminum driveshaft
MM full length weld in subframes
CC paltes
Lower control arms
Polly spring insulators
Pan hard bar
Bilstein shocks and struts
Steeda sport springs
Steeda underdrive pullies
JLT fender well cold air.
Accufab 70 TB and plenum
Pypes catted x pipe
This week I have rear 2754017 nittos coming from american muscle as well as an SCT tuner
exteriorwise
I have mach one grill delete
mach one chin spoiler and grille (both faded now, they've been on the car since I bought it feb 04)
with silver star lights in faded headlamps.
and the mirrors are now painted to match the body which makes a huge difference IMHO
I don't go to drag races.
I love fast turns.
I hate loud exhausts, if anything I would want to go quieter and better flowing if possible. (When I say I hate loud exhaust I mean I love to hear them on OTHER cars, I just don't want to hear it as I drive everywhere in mine, and I really don't need the cops to hear me when I put the pedal down)
I have frpp 4.10's but wanted to put them in after I have done everything else I can think of.
I would probably want to keep it under $400.
Any suggestions?
Current mods are
FRPP aluminum driveshaft
MM full length weld in subframes
CC paltes
Lower control arms
Polly spring insulators
Pan hard bar
Bilstein shocks and struts
Steeda sport springs
Steeda underdrive pullies
JLT fender well cold air.
Accufab 70 TB and plenum
Pypes catted x pipe
This week I have rear 2754017 nittos coming from american muscle as well as an SCT tuner
exteriorwise
I have mach one grill delete
mach one chin spoiler and grille (both faded now, they've been on the car since I bought it feb 04)
with silver star lights in faded headlamps.
and the mirrors are now painted to match the body which makes a huge difference IMHO
I don't go to drag races.
I love fast turns.
I hate loud exhausts, if anything I would want to go quieter and better flowing if possible. (When I say I hate loud exhaust I mean I love to hear them on OTHER cars, I just don't want to hear it as I drive everywhere in mine, and I really don't need the cops to hear me when I put the pedal down)
I have frpp 4.10's but wanted to put them in after I have done everything else I can think of.
I would probably want to keep it under $400.
Any suggestions?
03-19-2011, 09:33 AM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 395
Smoke lights!!!! lol Not really. Full exhaust would probably help. Be more than $400. But long tubes, keep your catted x-pipe and some 2 or 3 chamber mufflers will be quiet compared to any other exhaust set up. IMO
03-19-2011, 10:20 AM
#6
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 102
I live by Willowgrove PA.
I put the driveshaft in myself.
For automatic cars you have to change the snout on the trans end.
I bought mine back in the day when I first got the car it was like 175 but they have gotten a lot more expensive since then.
I know most people say they don't notice a difference, but when I first put it in I thought I noticed a difference in the higher rpm.
Probably one of those mental things though.
Or maybe since they are direct bolt ins for stick cars and I can't remember hearing of anyone else putting one in an automatic, maybe taking the 20#'s or whatever of rotating
mass off is more noticeable for slush box cars.
I put the driveshaft in myself.
For automatic cars you have to change the snout on the trans end.
I bought mine back in the day when I first got the car it was like 175 but they have gotten a lot more expensive since then.
I know most people say they don't notice a difference, but when I first put it in I thought I noticed a difference in the higher rpm.
Probably one of those mental things though.
Or maybe since they are direct bolt ins for stick cars and I can't remember hearing of anyone else putting one in an automatic, maybe taking the 20#'s or whatever of rotating
mass off is more noticeable for slush box cars.
03-19-2011, 10:25 AM
#7
speed'n
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 2,248
I live by Willowgrove PA.
I put the driveshaft in myself.
For automatic cars you have to change the snout on the trans end.
I bought mine back in the day when I first got the car it was like 175 but they have gotten a lot more expensive since then.
I know most people say they don't notice a difference, but when I first put it in I thought I noticed a difference in the higher rpm.
Probably one of those mental things though.
Or maybe since they are direct bolt ins for stick cars and I can't remember hearing of anyone else putting one in an automatic, maybe taking the 20#'s or whatever of rotating
mass off is more noticeable for slush box cars.
I put the driveshaft in myself.
For automatic cars you have to change the snout on the trans end.
I bought mine back in the day when I first got the car it was like 175 but they have gotten a lot more expensive since then.
I know most people say they don't notice a difference, but when I first put it in I thought I noticed a difference in the higher rpm.
Probably one of those mental things though.
Or maybe since they are direct bolt ins for stick cars and I can't remember hearing of anyone else putting one in an automatic, maybe taking the 20#'s or whatever of rotating
mass off is more noticeable for slush box cars.
03-19-2011, 01:49 PM
#9
1st Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 102
Hey Thanks... I saw AM has then for almost 400 & im like dang lol. Yea i got an auto but wasn't sure just how much difference they make. Im aware they help a bit racing down the strip esp when your making alot of power becuz the oem will snap. Soo the snout on the trans end huh? whats the entail?
I couldn't think of the proper name at the time.
Its the slip yoke.
I think the splines are different.
So when you buy the driveshaft you have to undo the front u joint and swap your old slip yoke into the new shaft.
It was an easy driveway swap.
Worst part was getting the 12 point socket for the four bolts at the diff since I didn't have one.
I am also **** about my car so I bought new bolts from the dealer, they come pre lock tited in the package.
My friend was looking to buy one, I shopped around on the net and I think the cheapest I could find was around $269.
03-19-2011, 03:41 PM
#10
speed'n
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 2,248
You modify the driveshaft itself.
I couldn't think of the proper name at the time.
Its the slip yoke.
I think the splines are different.
So when you buy the driveshaft you have to undo the front u joint and swap your old slip yoke into the new shaft.
It was an easy driveway swap.
Worst part was getting the 12 point socket for the four bolts at the diff since I didn't have one.
I am also **** about my car so I bought new bolts from the dealer, they come pre lock tited in the package.
My friend was looking to buy one, I shopped around on the net and I think the cheapest I could find was around $269.
I couldn't think of the proper name at the time.
Its the slip yoke.
I think the splines are different.
So when you buy the driveshaft you have to undo the front u joint and swap your old slip yoke into the new shaft.
It was an easy driveway swap.
Worst part was getting the 12 point socket for the four bolts at the diff since I didn't have one.
I am also **** about my car so I bought new bolts from the dealer, they come pre lock tited in the package.
My friend was looking to buy one, I shopped around on the net and I think the cheapest I could find was around $269.