4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

fuel cell vs sumped tank?

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Old 07-02-2011, 04:34 PM
  #11  
zero2005
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the heads are MHS stage 1's, think it lists the specs on their site, along with the their stage 2 turbo cams.

not planning on turning it more than 6600-6700, pushing probably as much boost as i can (22ish psi?).
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:05 PM
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at that much boost alone I say go for the Eddie, I could only pull mine to 5800 due to my converter unlocking and with MMR stage 3 heads/custom blower cams/eddie vic jr manifold it was still skyrocketing at this point, my vote is for the eddie, I also sent mine to MMR and they port matched it to my heads
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Old 07-03-2011, 04:28 AM
  #13  
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nice. i heard one guy over at MHS put the plastic intake to the test, stage 2 heads with stage 2 cams, and got just a tad under 700, with the eddie he made it past the 700's on 20lbs. so i'm hoping for close to the same with just a few more psi. gotta get it sorted out tho, first off is getting it to run right, then next up is the fuel system.
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:17 AM
  #14  
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thats crazy , but with the right setup definitely possible. What will your CR be? Also, fuel will play a HUGE role as well. Good luck with everything
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Old 07-03-2011, 08:19 AM
  #15  
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I think MMR build it for a 9.55 CR, but with the MHS heads i think it might be just a tad less. not sure how much a stage 1 P/P would effect it?

corse, i need to get it up and runnin first off. well it runs, just gotta figure out what the hell is causin it to run so rough...

Last edited by zero2005; 07-03-2011 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 07-09-2011, 10:19 AM
  #16  
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nother question: regarding fuel feed line - i was thinking of running a -8 fuel line (dual lines from the sump, 1 line to each external pump, then into a Y-block). but i'm unsure of what line to use. i'd like to keep the price down and weight isnt a huge issue.

originally thought, hey braided stainless with AN fittings. but now i see that its a pain in the *** to work with and assemble, i found nylon line, which apparently is just as strong (slightly less heat resistant), and usually cheaper? from what i've found, all resources state that no matter Stainless or Nylon braided, the inner part of the line (rubber) will fail in a fire before the outter nylon or steel portion.

just wanted to see if anyone had any suggestions based on experience with fuel lines, or fittings. i want what ever is most affordable, with the most benefits(eg easy to work with, lightweight, cost effective, safety). -8 should be fine for a feed line for 60-70lb injectors IIRC? (700-800 rwhp). plan on running a 1:1 boost ref FPR, at 43 PSI, so at 20 psi that would yield a max'ish of 63 psi

i plan on using the stock returnless line as the new return line.

edit:
also, can the stock inertia switch be wired into the relay's for the fuel pumps to give them the automatic shutoff incase of a crash? i plan on also wiring in other options just in case, but that would be a nice feature to retain...

Last edited by zero2005; 07-09-2011 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 07-09-2011, 11:50 AM
  #17  
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I decided on stainless lines mostly because of the fact juuuuust in case something were to puncture the line beneath the car I would have extra assurance. They are a PITA thought with cutting/them fraying on the ends, and getting AN fittings on. Not TOO bad but still a pita. I run a relay for each pump and if I remember correctly 30 amp fuses
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:07 AM
  #18  
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yea i thought as a "2nd runner up" nylon braided. enough to handle punctures or bends, more likely to show damage tho. i've heard some people complain about stainless that the braid could be fine, but the inner lining could get damaged. the inner lining on all that i've found fails at 300 degrees so thats the limiting factor.

i also found that summit had some stuff that had different connectors than AN/NPT known as "socketless" basically alot less pain in the ***, still NHRA legal (tho i'm not really concerned about that) and if anything i'd toss on some zip ties or torque bands (or w/e the hell they're called, cant remember lol) to keep anything from popping off.

the socketless is the cheapest line wise, and probably also connector wise.... none braided though guess i'll check the FLAPS as soon as i get back to compare pricing a bit more...
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Old 07-11-2011, 05:38 PM
  #19  
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Are you running the master power turbo on that kit or have you upgraded? Ever thought about the precision turbo billet wheel? From what ive heard the 67mm should outperform the mp70, and im not sure but i think they make a 70mm. You may want to do the on3 kit because i've heard they upgraded the wastegates to handle the turbo.
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Old 07-12-2011, 04:19 AM
  #20  
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running the 1st gen kit of the on3 kit, stock wastegate/BOV for now, i've been planning on upgrading the turbo, but fuel system is first. might just grab a .83 AR for the MP, as its only like 100-200$ for the housing... upgraded wastegate will come (with electronic boost control), and i dunno about the BOV, cuz i really like the sound of the On3 BOV and it does its job fine.

the precision turbo might be good, but i havent seen any number from them or any maps or anything. i know how the MP performs, so its "predictable". alot of them are expensive too. no need for ball bearing, journal is fine for me. depending on the T70's reaction to the cam's, i might go bigger to a 76mm...

first thing first obviously fuel system. then i need a tune - bad lol. i'll see how much i can get out of it this way, then upgrade. i really need to ditch the returnless.

i'm even thinking about non-braided lines or hell even mostly hard line. i cant really see a need for the braided lines. and soft lines just make it slightly easier to install.

Last edited by zero2005; 07-12-2011 at 04:23 AM.
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