Justin00GT

Just bought my 00 GT from the orig owner a little over 2 weeks ago. 98K miles in good overall shape.

Within one week of buying it the check engine soon light came on. It drove fine and I figured the trouble I was having with the locking gas cap was the issue.

So I bought a new cap (non locking) at Napa and even a new battery at Costco because the current one was 4 years old and looking bad. Installed both, start car up and drove and no Check engine soon light.

Fine for 2 days and then cruising at 1200 rpm in 5th and it came back on. Again, drove fine.

Started it up tonight, drove a short trip, parked. Came out 2 hours later and started it to a VER lumpy idle, had to limp it home the 2 miles with it stuttering pretty badly under 2K rpm. Bud then it would randomly feel normal.

I assume from my BMW days that it's a Coil pack issue. I've replaced all six when the same symptoms happened on my E36 M3 and it felt like a new car afterwards.

My questions are:

1) I searched and even looked under the dash, but where is the freakin OBD2 port? I'm used to them being under the hood on older cars. Am I missing it or something?

2) Does the random stuttering sound like a coil pack issue to you guys? Any other ideas?

I have yet to pull any plugs, I just want to find the OBD2 port and get the code(s) read.

Any help is appreciated.

cliffyk

All OBD2 Data Link Connectors (DLCs) are required to be within 2 feet of the steering wheel, and within reach of the driver--only OBD1 and earlier non-OBD DLCs were under the hood. On the '99 to '04 Mustangs it is just to the right and above your right knee as you are seated in the driver's seat.

Your '00 does not have coil packs but rather individual coils on each spark plug, known as COPs (Coil-On-Plug).

Read the codes, look them up here, and post back--there are a bunch on knowledgeable people here that can help out.

Justin00GT

Thank you for your help.

I'll get the codes read, but for now (I read the COP sticky) and they say the ebay ones aren't half bad. I heard a few guys that replaced theirs with the $90 ebay ones like below. Thoughts?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...Q5fAccessories

cliffyk

Get the codes read before you start buying parts.

Have you checked the spark plugs and condition of the COP boots?

Justin00GT

P0455 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (No Purge Flow or Large Leak)

^This guy is the culprit.

Okay, so to the best of my ability I will explain.

1) Car had locking gas cap that I was annoyed by how difficult it was to twist and take off.

2) I bought a NAPA non-locking gas cap and installed it. Car drove fine after battery re-set, check engine light went off.

3) Filled tank up to MASSIVE fuel smell, like really bad. Car even seems to be getting worse gas mileage than I thought it should. No visible fuel leaks though.

4) Gas smell went away as tank dipped below 3/4.

5) 2 days ago check engine soon light came back on while crusing at 1200rpm, 5th gear at 42-45mph. Car drove fine.

6) Started last night to lumpy idle and a "miss" feeling when driving.

7) Just checked codes. Only P0455 came up. Started car after clearing code and it still idles funny. Check light stayed off letting it idle a few min.

I read that some guys who top off their tanks had a filler neck leak. Any other thoughts of leaking area? It does NOT smell of gas under the hood, but DOES in the right side of the trunk.

Any one ever have issues with the gas cap? I still don't "get" these caps, they never click and it never really feels sealed. I must be losing it ugh.

JRad405

Check your filler neck. It could be a worn out seal or whatever the rubber thing is. Gas cap stuff could happen, but if you already replaced it you may need to look further than a gas cap.

Justin00GT

I peeked under the car on the filler side and didn't see where this rubber grommet everyone speaks of is located. Any photo of where I should be looking?

My brand new gas cap rubber seal is soaked with gas. That can't be good.

cliffyk

Here is what the shop manual says about P0455, work the list from the top down. Note that "After-market EVAP hardware (such as fuel filler cap) non-conforming to required specifications." is at the top of the list.

Here's the RnR for the fuel tank, which shows how it all goes together...

Justin00GT

Well I picked up the car today, for those that are following, here's what they fixed for the P0455 Evap large leak code.

"Smoke tested evap system, found large leak by canister area, found vent hose from tank to canister not plugged in, rerouted line so line could reach to canister fitting."

Random huh? They said it looked like previously the tank was dropped and the line was routed the wrong way so it wouldn't reach the canister fitting. Weird, because you'd think that would set off the P0455 code all the time, it was fine when I test drove it before purchasing (though I did smell fuel under the back of the car).

Now I have a new code, P0304, Cylinder 4 misfire traced back to coil 4 crapping out.
Can't wait to get all the new coils in and plugs.

What tools do I need to install the COP's? It looks like the shiny fuel rail cover will be in my way.

cliffyk

Just a 7mm (IIRC) socket to remove the mounting screws--the fuel rails (the chrome "cover" is the fuel rail) do not have to come off as the COP boot is quite flexible. Once the screw is removed they can be taken out from beneath the rail.