stock clutch cable to tight??
#1
stock clutch cable to tight??
ok guys just finished everything with installing my tranny and new clutch, so i when i first started up the car the clutch pedal was to loose so i did the self adjustment with the cable by pushing up on the clutch pedal and pushing down, i heard a click and then it immediatly became much harder to push the clutch in, when i look at the TOB from the clutch cover i see when the car is off in neutral the TOB is already sitting the the fingers of the clutch, should this be? also i can feel the clutch not fully disengaging, so how do i add more slack onto the cable and if i can't i guess ill get a adjusting kit, any help is much appreciated guys, it sucks not being able to drive the car after all this work!!
#2
well, first off, ford designed (terribly i might add) the TOB to sit on the fingers - this is where that stupid TOB squeek comes from, due to the TOB wearing out alot faster because its always on those fingers.. there are a couple fixes to this. one involves a return spring which pushes or pulls the arm back to pull the TOB off the fingers. the other is a design where someone took that stupid lead block off the arm, and put a magnet that attaches to the transmission where the "inspection" port panel is, just far enough that when the clutch is fully released, it pulls it back farther about 1/8th of an inch to clear the fingers. i cant remember who did this, but there's a video somewhere, and probably a search of the forums will give results.
now, are you sure the clutch is not fully disengaging? i would take a peek while at full travel to see if you can tell, or actually drive it a bit to see if it is or not. the pedal is "self adjusting" so theoretically it should adjust itself...
but one OTHER upgrade, is to go with a solid quadrant and a firewall adjuster. stick with the stock cable, its the best there is, as most aftermarket stuff is junk.
now, are you sure the clutch is not fully disengaging? i would take a peek while at full travel to see if you can tell, or actually drive it a bit to see if it is or not. the pedal is "self adjusting" so theoretically it should adjust itself...
but one OTHER upgrade, is to go with a solid quadrant and a firewall adjuster. stick with the stock cable, its the best there is, as most aftermarket stuff is junk.
#3
I got the bbk kit from a vendor near me the quadrant is a double hook looks rele nicr I also got the firewall adjusted and it came with the adjustable cable but I tried both cables and both were to short they wouldn't reach the fork even with the firewall adjusted all the way in , am I missing something I spent a good 2 hours trying to get it to work Idk what I'm doing wrong??
#4
first off, ditch the adjustable aftermarket cable, they are garbage. ONLY use STOCK OEM cables.
2nd, you said its a two hook quadrant? that means that each hook is also an adjustment. you can use either of the hooks depending on how stretched out your cable is. you simple use the hook that is "closer" so that there is more slack, then adjust the slack out with the firewall adjuster until its in a position where you want it...
2nd, you said its a two hook quadrant? that means that each hook is also an adjustment. you can use either of the hooks depending on how stretched out your cable is. you simple use the hook that is "closer" so that there is more slack, then adjust the slack out with the firewall adjuster until its in a position where you want it...
#5
yeah i tried that i had the firewall adjuster all the way in towards the firewall so i could have as much slack as i needed but that still wasn't enough for the cable, if i would put it on then it would still have to much tension on the TOB to the clutch fingers, some people say it should be preloaded but some say that bad and it wear on the TOB so idk i might need a longer cable what do u think? thanks man!!
#6
you tried both hooks on the quadrant?
and the bearing will possibly rest on the fingers of the clutch pressure plate, its almost unavoidable (without a return spring/magnet). ford designed it this way. its a bad design.
i'm going to refer you to this install article from AmericanMuscle.com:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...t-install.html
step 12 is what you need to pay attention to, it sounds to me like you installed it on the wrong hook. if you have a dual hook quadrant, there are two hooks the end of the cable can sit on. one will increase tension, the other release tension. i have a 3 hook, and right now i'm on the middle hook.
i've never heard of anyone making a longer cable.
worst comes to worse, take that stuff back to the place u bought it and say its junk and get a refund.
and the bearing will possibly rest on the fingers of the clutch pressure plate, its almost unavoidable (without a return spring/magnet). ford designed it this way. its a bad design.
i'm going to refer you to this install article from AmericanMuscle.com:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustan...t-install.html
step 12 is what you need to pay attention to, it sounds to me like you installed it on the wrong hook. if you have a dual hook quadrant, there are two hooks the end of the cable can sit on. one will increase tension, the other release tension. i have a 3 hook, and right now i'm on the middle hook.
i've never heard of anyone making a longer cable.
worst comes to worse, take that stuff back to the place u bought it and say its junk and get a refund.
#7
im going to upload a couple pics, so the cable itself is long enough if i weren't for the firewall adjuster, i basically need about 1-1.5 inches more max of the cable to be able to have the TOB not sit onto the clutch fingers, everyone says 1/4-1/8 of an inch off the fingers, i drove the car after installing the cable (OEM) with the FWA and quadrant (yes im using the closest one to the firewall so im using as much slack that is available to me) and it smells like a little bit of burnt clutch, so i only drove it like 1/4 mile and went back into the garage it went in and out of gear just fine and pulled very hard and nice the clutch pedal wasn't to heavy either but it shuttered ehh maybe very slightly before releasing the pedal all the way from the floor, so i think either i need a quadrant that has a slightly closer hook to the FWA for more slack or maybe a smaller FWA or a longer cable, somehting that would provide me with 1-2" more slack and that would be perfect, i have the BBK quadrant so lmk if there is one that has one with a closer hook for more slack, if the stopper wasn't there where the cable goes through the trans hook i would have enough slack, if you look at the 3rd pic the bigger part on the other side of the cable so it stops, if that wasn't there i would be golden, but any help is appreciated, i want to be able to drive my car ahhh lol!
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#8
i have the UPR 3 hook quad + FWA, and i have tons of slack.
can u get a picture of your FWA and quadrant? that would help.
if i had to get another one, i'd get a Maximum motorsport tho, my UPR didnt come with enough washers to support it fully so i ended up having to steal some more from my dad so it wouldnt wiggle around (not that big of a deal, i was just being picky)
can u get a picture of your FWA and quadrant? that would help.
if i had to get another one, i'd get a Maximum motorsport tho, my UPR didnt come with enough washers to support it fully so i ended up having to steal some more from my dad so it wouldnt wiggle around (not that big of a deal, i was just being picky)
#9
yeah ill post a pic of the FWA and the quadrant just one sec, does everything look right in the pics though, this is my first clutch install and im pretty sure i installed everything right, but since the TOB is riding on the clutch fingers all the time its like ridding the clutch causing the "burnt" smell right? i can't see how ford would allow this or how it would run properly unless im not getting something?
#10