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Old 02-20-2012, 09:08 PM   #1
EddyG
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Default 5th gear grind

My 98GT grinds 5th gear. Only when shifting normally. When I take it to higher rpms it usually doesn't do it. My clutch grabs about 1 inch from the top. And I also have a pro 5.0 shifter.

Could It be that the clutch needs to be adjusted?
Could it be the pro 5.0 short throw?

Help tell me some possibilities.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:33 PM   #2
1998Slow 'Stang
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Have you tried lifting up (by that I mean pulling towards you with your foot behind the pedal) the pedal? If not, that might fix it unless you have an aftermarket quadrent (Stock is white/yellow plastic). Or if you have a firewall adjuster you could adjust that out.

Also, do you know the age of your clutch and if it was slipped alot like in traffic, or lots of hard launches. If adjusting doesn't work, it could be time for a new clutch......
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:46 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by 1998Slow 'Stang View Post
Have you tried lifting up (by that I mean pulling towards you with your foot behind the pedal) the pedal? If not, that might fix it unless you have an aftermarket quadrent (Stock is white/yellow plastic). Or if you have a firewall adjuster you could adjust that out.

Also, do you know the age of your clutch and if it was slipped alot like in traffic, or lots of hard launches. If adjusting doesn't work, it could be time for a new clutch......
No slipping at all also if I pull up on the pedal It just has maybe a couple of centimeters of play. Nothing happens. I don't know if my car has an after market quadrant. But I know for sure it doesn't have a firewall adjuster.
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:06 AM   #4
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FWIW, there is a TSB referencing difficult shifting into reverse and perhaps locking in to reverse, caused by the 5th/reverse shift fork--this may or may not be related to your issue...
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:09 PM   #5
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FWIW, there is a TSB referencing difficult shifting into reverse and perhaps locking in to reverse, caused by the 5th/reverse shift fork--this may or may not be related to your issue...
Yea I think this may be my issue because my reverse is kind of hard to get into. And sometimes grinds. If I am in first and push down the clutch and put it in reverse it won't go in. I have to put it in neutral let out the clutch push it back in then put it into reverse and I goes In fine. But I don't get what the article means on the link. What would I have to buy and do to fix it?
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:28 PM   #6
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Yea I think this may be my issue because my reverse is kind of hard to get into. And sometimes grinds. If I am in first and push down the clutch and put it in reverse it won't go in. I have to put it in neutral let out the clutch push it back in then put it into reverse and I goes In fine. But I don't get what the article means on the link. What would I have to buy and do to fix it?
The TSB clearly explains what has to be done. You have to remove and disassemble the transmission, then follow instructions 1 through 7 to determine which 5th/reverse fork is needed. Then obtain that fork, install it, and reassemble and re-install the transmission.

To be frank, that you ask "What would I have to buy and do to fix it?" indicates that you may not have the knowledge and experience to do this which brings up another issue.

It is not overly complex a task, but would I guesstimate take 5 to 6 hours, maybe a whole day, for a good mechanic. That could be $500 to $1000+ depending on who does the work.
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum,
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New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq


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Old 02-23-2012, 03:14 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by cliffyk View Post
The TSB clearly explains what has to be done. You have to remove and disassemble the transmission, then follow instructions 1 through 7 to determine which 5th/reverse fork is needed. Then obtain that fork, install it, and reassemble and re-install the transmission.

To be frank, that you ask "What would I have to buy and do to fix it?" indicates that you may not have the knowledge and experience to do this which brings up another issue.

It is not overly complex a task, but would I guesstimate take 5 to 6 hours, maybe a whole day, for a good mechanic. That could be $500 to $1000+ depending on who does the work.
yea theres no way i could do this myself. but if it keeps grinding because of this problem. will it eventually strip out my 5th gear. where it wont engage?
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:30 PM   #8
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yea theres no way i could do this myself. but if it keeps grinding because of this problem. will it eventually strip out my 5th gear. where it wont engage?
It will not get any better all by itself, that is for sure. When was the fluid last changed, in situations like this it is not unusual for new fluid to help a bit--at least it will not hurt...
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum,
Delta Force tuned, Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel,
RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq


Engineering is, at its base, making what you want from what you have.
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:38 PM   #9
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It will not get any better all by itself, that is for sure. When was the fluid last changed, in situations like this it is not unusual for new fluid to help a bit--at least it will not hurt...
all fluids were changed when the pi swap was done. about 3-4 weeks ago
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:44 PM   #10
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Well that blows that theory... :-)
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SOLD! - 2003 GT, UPR X, FRPP 24lb/h, Magnaflow, PP 70mm TB & plenum,
Delta Force tuned, Steeda UDPs, Ralco flywheel,
RAM HDX clutch, 3.73s, 262 rwHP/305 lb-ft.

New ride (7/1/2013) 1998 Mercedes SL500-5.0L 32V VVT 326/347 HP/tq


Engineering is, at its base, making what you want from what you have.
At its extreme it is making what you want from what you can get.
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:44 PM
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