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4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:34 AM   #51
VTX1800N1
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I think we are going to remove the K member for two reasons. We are going to POR 15 the entire engine bay. There is some rust in there and the POR 15 will permanently eliminate it and make everything a nice satin chassis black. Taking it out means we can paint it separate and get between it and the chassis much easier. It will also make hooking up the starter and exhaust much easier as we reinstall the engine. The only tight quarters then will be hooking the steering shaft to the rack, but I think that will be easier than the exhaust and starter.

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Old 07-11-2014, 01:21 PM   #52
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My brother has a Steeda Tri-ax shifter somewhere in his garage from his Ford days, before he went to the dark side. He's going to give it to my son since it fits the Tremec 3650 in this Mustang.

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Old 07-11-2014, 09:20 PM   #53
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Regardless of the symptoms there is no reason to immediately assume engine destruction. Faulty ignition components are some of the most common issues and will cause these motors to run like *** and sound horrible. The failure that you have run across in your motor is one in a million and very bizarre.

Faulty factory cam hardware installation and/or faulty service done on the heads down the road caused this chain reaction. Its too bad but at least once you are done the thing is fresh and will last a very very long time if properly serviced.

If you immediately tore down every engine with bad noises without changing or inspecting anything I have a feeling youd waste quite a bit of money over a life time. But maybe thats the crazy in me.
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Old 07-12-2014, 01:49 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hangwire View Post
Regardless of the symptoms there is no reason to immediately assume engine destruction. Faulty ignition components are some of the most common issues and will cause these motors to run like *** and sound horrible. The failure that you have run across in your motor is one in a million and very bizarre.

Faulty factory cam hardware installation and/or faulty service done on the heads down the road caused this chain reaction. Its too bad but at least once you are done the thing is fresh and will last a very very long time if properly serviced.

If you immediately tore down every engine with bad noises without changing or inspecting anything I have a feeling youd waste quite a bit of money over a life time. But maybe thats the crazy in me.
My point was, I know what a mechanical problem sounds like, especially when using a stethoscope to pinpoint it combined with codes showing misfire in the same location. Nor did I tear down the engine without doing an inspection. I pulled codes, listened with a stethoscope, swapped plugs and coils, and finally did an oil pressure and compression test before tearing it apart. That's a rather complete diagnostic. After listening to the engine run, there was no doubt in my mind that it was a mechanical problem on the top with #3 and #4, and I was exactly correct.

I can't imagine this was a factory defect and the engine "survived" 143K miles. It would have self-destructed long before this. Someone was in this engine and didn't bother to torque the cam bolts properly. We are ordering new heads, fully assembled. I am for sure going to check the torque on the cam bolts. I will probably remove the cams and make sure there is plenty of assembly lube and then reinstall and torque them to factory specs. I actually think the rockers fell out as we were removing the valve cover. We heard some strange noises from under the cover as my son was removing the bolts around #3 and #4 on the cover.

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Old 07-12-2014, 12:29 PM   #55
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Quote:
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I actually think the rockers fell out as we were removing the valve cover. We heard some strange noises from under the cover as my son was removing the bolts around #3 and #4 on the cover.
That had to been an "oh ****" moment.
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Old 07-12-2014, 12:38 PM   #56
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Quote:
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That had to been an "oh ****" moment.
A little confusing, actually. I could hear them fall one by one in rapid succession, and we both looked at each other, wondering what that sound was. It wasn't till the valve cover was off, of course, that I had any idea that the engine had ejected them.

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Old 07-12-2014, 05:07 PM   #57
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We pulled the front bumper to get a better look at the radiator frame damage. I found a replacement piece at Rock Auto for ~$80. Just have to get a body shop to cut the old one out and install a new one.

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Old 07-13-2014, 03:50 PM   #58
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Well, Rock Auto wanted over $70 to ship the radiator support. LMR sells the same part for $109 with free shipping. I also ordered Hawk ceramic front and rear brake pads so that I could get the order over $250 to qualify for $10 off with the Get10 coupon code.

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Old 07-14-2014, 06:51 PM   #59
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Looks like I'm not the only one to find this problem on the 4.6L!!!

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Old 07-15-2014, 12:20 AM   #60
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Quote:
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There's not much room on the back side between the engine and firewall.
For what?

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Old 07-15-2014, 12:20 AM
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