Rebuilt engine, bad knocking sound
#21
Pulled the timing cover today. Both banks were timed correctly, so that is not the cause of Bank 2 being low on compression. I was really hoping that was it. There was a lot of dirt down in the spark plug holes for the Bank 2 cylinder head- so much in cylinder 8 that I could not even get a socket on the plug. I had to dig around it with a flat screwdriver and then blow the dirt out several times before I could remove the plug. I suppose with all that dirt, I may not have been able to get a good seal with the compression tester adapter. I have a leak down tester on the way and it will be here Monday.
I found that the cam sprocket gear bolt on Bank 1 was less than finger tight. The sprocket was rattling around. The upper bolt on the straight guide for Bank 1 wasn't missing, it had broken off. I have an easy out and will try to extract the remainder of the bolt this weekend or early next week. The bolt head must have dropped down in the oil pan. If we are lucky, it will come out with an oil change.
We removed the cams, replaced all the lash adjusters and cam followers, and reinstalled the cams and re-timed the engine today. Obviously I cannot install the Bank 1 straight timing guide until I get the broken bolt out and replaced. I'll stuff the front of the engine with rags and hold a shop vac near the ez-out while I drill into it. That hardened bolt isn't going to be fun.
I'm not exactly sure what caused the bolt to break. It could have been the loose cam sprocket rattling around, or it could have been over torqued when installed, or some combination thereof. If I can't get it out... the head has to come off and that means that the engine has to come out. What a mess....
I found that the cam sprocket gear bolt on Bank 1 was less than finger tight. The sprocket was rattling around. The upper bolt on the straight guide for Bank 1 wasn't missing, it had broken off. I have an easy out and will try to extract the remainder of the bolt this weekend or early next week. The bolt head must have dropped down in the oil pan. If we are lucky, it will come out with an oil change.
We removed the cams, replaced all the lash adjusters and cam followers, and reinstalled the cams and re-timed the engine today. Obviously I cannot install the Bank 1 straight timing guide until I get the broken bolt out and replaced. I'll stuff the front of the engine with rags and hold a shop vac near the ez-out while I drill into it. That hardened bolt isn't going to be fun.
I'm not exactly sure what caused the bolt to break. It could have been the loose cam sprocket rattling around, or it could have been over torqued when installed, or some combination thereof. If I can't get it out... the head has to come off and that means that the engine has to come out. What a mess....
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 06-24-2015 at 09:02 PM.
#22
sounds like whoever did your engine work previously did a crap job, and cross threaded the bolt and snapped it off as well as not tighten some of the fasteners. i would be calling them up if it was my car
#23
I'm setting all the bolts to the proper torque values and using loc-tite to keep them in place.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; 06-24-2015 at 09:58 PM.
#25
Rebuilt engine, bad knocking sound
I'm using blue Loctite on the chain guide bolts and tensioner bolts. They will still be removable, but the Loctite will ensure they do not loosen on their own. The chain guide bolts only get torqued to 106 in-lbs.
#28
#29
Rebuilt engine, bad knocking sound
Well, I got the cylinder leak down tester yesterday. Today I put it on the cylinder with the lowest compression, #5. I set it at TDC and it's leaking past the rings so fast that my little 5 gal compressor can't keep up. I don't know what they screwed up or how they managed to make all the screw ups on Bank 2, but the engine will have to come out and be completely disassembled for a second time.