School me on suspension..
#21
I have been thinking of getting a MM Panhard bar for a while now, do I need the torqe arm as well, or will I be alright without one and just use the panhard bar?
I have got CHE LCA's and Ford Racing UCR's now.
If I remember correctly, if I use the panhard bar I only need one UCR correct?
Lynn
I have got CHE LCA's and Ford Racing UCR's now.
If I remember correctly, if I use the panhard bar I only need one UCR correct?
Lynn
#22
If you want to do it right and for the best cost buy:
UPR front kmember/coilover kit
UPR adjustable uppers
UPR spherical upper bushings
Megabite jr, ford racing or comp engineering lower control arms (they all relocate the axle mount and actually improve traction unlike the others)
UPR rear coilovers
Which ever shocks/struts you decide to go with try to get adjustable ones.
I don't have any of the above list on my car except for the megabite jrs but I just recently installed all of the above on my friends car and I am really impressed with the quality and performance.
UPR front kmember/coilover kit
UPR adjustable uppers
UPR spherical upper bushings
Megabite jr, ford racing or comp engineering lower control arms (they all relocate the axle mount and actually improve traction unlike the others)
UPR rear coilovers
Which ever shocks/struts you decide to go with try to get adjustable ones.
I don't have any of the above list on my car except for the megabite jrs but I just recently installed all of the above on my friends car and I am really impressed with the quality and performance.
Ok this is what I think I am gonna do for right now. I think I will just get some LCAs, and coilovers all around. I have been looking but havent found megabite jrs or CE control arms anywhere
EDIT: I just found the CE ones at summit what what about the megabite ones
Last edited by jvog; 02-01-2009 at 11:12 AM.
#23
If you're really on a budget, you can bolt on a pair of 26x10 slicks and pull 1.6 60's all day long. Too much is put into adding parts when the tire is the most important and overlooked part. I've seen it done time and time again. Get decent tires first then start adding the RIGHT parts to get where you want to be.
#25
Maybe not the first time out but any sticky tire is gonna do your drivetrain in pretty soon. I would build the rearend before working the suspension if I were to do it all over again.
#26
i agree with jayc to an extent, because if you bolt on slicks you WILL pull good 60's but WILL blow out the bushings.
and if you pull the same 60s with a drag radial and drag suspension vs. bolting on slicks what difference is it to your differential, if its gonna break its gonna break.
and if you pull the same 60s with a drag radial and drag suspension vs. bolting on slicks what difference is it to your differential, if its gonna break its gonna break.
#27
If you want to do it right and for the best cost buy:
UPR front kmember/coilover kit
UPR adjustable uppers
UPR spherical upper bushings
Megabite jr, ford racing or comp engineering lower control arms (they all relocate the axle mount and actually improve traction unlike the others)
UPR rear coilovers
Which ever shocks/struts you decide to go with try to get adjustable ones.
I don't have any of the above list on my car except for the megabite jrs but I just recently installed all of the above on my friends car and I am really impressed with the quality and performance.
UPR front kmember/coilover kit
UPR adjustable uppers
UPR spherical upper bushings
Megabite jr, ford racing or comp engineering lower control arms (they all relocate the axle mount and actually improve traction unlike the others)
UPR rear coilovers
Which ever shocks/struts you decide to go with try to get adjustable ones.
I don't have any of the above list on my car except for the megabite jrs but I just recently installed all of the above on my friends car and I am really impressed with the quality and performance.
#30