avexhype

I wanted to start a thread for those guys looking to squeeze some more power out of their cars and keeping it driveable on the street yet when needed, show a vette or other well known fast vehicle's what a lil ol' boosted 2v can do. These guys would be on limited budgets UNDER $2500-3000k ish.

Ok so heres my dilema:

I want to add some more power to my car. Its pretty much maxed out on the stock shortblock (makes well over 400 rwhp).

My goal: fast street car. Not looking to run 9's or put down 1000 rwhp. 550-650 rwhp MAX is ideal.

So since im not rich either what would be cheaper and the better route to take for my goals? I know one should never mix up cheap and fast but i know for a fact its deffinetly possible to get a good motor set up for under $2000.

Option 1: Just buy an MMR ready build shortblock ($2,200 MINIMUM for the mmr600)

Option 2: Build my current motor. Buy a rotating assembly with forged crank, rods, pistons (can easily be peiced together for under $1,100) Seems cheaper off the bat right? Well,

PROBLEM: How much is it going to cost to prep the block and balance the assembly ect.. as well as other misc work that a machine shop will have to do to put it together?

My skill: Ive never done more than basic routine maintenance and exhaust work, nothing major. BUT, i know very well how to work a wrench and where everything is on the motor and what it does. If i have step by step instructions, i am capable of doing EVERYTHING.

Im short on money, but have PLENTY of time. This is NOT my daily driver.

Thanks for any input.

Mustang_NTriangle

Well you are just better off buying MMR short block and believe the MMR600 is 2400 bucks. I am going route of forging my own block but having master mechanic my brother assemble it for me. He is charging $400 bucks for the build. I would imagine a shop would charge 800-1000 for engine build plus install cost.

Do the math and MMR block is a good deal. You will need deep pockets to much of 500 rwhp because you need to upgrade fuel system, 8 rib pulley etc. This is way for me I am going with 475-500 rwhp so I won't need cobra dual pumps etc. And 500 rwhp is very very fast.

avexhype

your right, 500 rwhp is plenty for a street car. I have a fuel system support 600 rwhp as well as the 8 rib kit, and supporting mods. the only thing holding me back is the stock internals.

So the mmr600 uses a stock GT crank no? How good is the stock crank in holding up to revs around 6400-7000 rpm as well as 500-600 rwhp? i would think not very well but to make 600 rwhp you need to rev past 6k and that maybe what the mmr600 uses...

fausty

I think mmr uses a ford racing cast iron crank for the mod 600(good for 600) and for the 800 they use a forged cobra crank .

avexhype

oh is it? in that case...the mmr600 should be fine

Mustang_NTriangle

Yes - MMR600 cast crank is go for 600 rwhp. If you wanted to save more money, order that kit less the crank since your stock one is good for 600 rwhp.

Fobra

most shops would do a basic internal build for around 500-800 bucks, the problem is that not to many places mess with modulars. But whatever you buy, try you best to get an enforceable warranty

mustangman281

You guys are all getting ripped off especially the guy with his brother doing the work. I bought my rotating assembly for $1500 (forged kellogg crank, manley forged pistons, mod max forged Hbeam rods with bearings and rings all good to 1000hp) The machine shop charged $250 for balancing, $100 for boring .020, and assembly $150. ARP main studs cost $100. Total cost of the shortblock was $2100. So basicly I have a shortblock that is stronger then the MMR900 block for less then a MMR600.

avexhype

triangle: sounds like a good idea but isnt the point of the MMR block to be already assembled and balanced from their shop?

cause if i ordered it from the site as it sells, MINUS the crank wouldnt i have to redo all the machining work to take out MY crank and put it in the new mmr block?

ok so 5-800 doesnt sound too bad but the mmr 12 month warranty sounds good

avexhype

ok see, i just called a local machine shop and they quoted me assembly ALONE would be $900. i asked alot of questions so maybe they got confused but everything like you said was quoted $2100 (balancing, boring and assembly)

mustangman: im pretty sure im not using the correct terminology or asking the right questions to these shops. i just called houston engine and balancing and they said 1800 for all the work. YES i said i will supply all the parts for the rotating assembly