more clutch issues
#1
more clutch issues
so, i bought a new AM clutch cable about a month ago... it's totally shot. wires (that support the black casing??) were sticking out of both ends, and the black cable itself looked like a slithering snake, with bends in weird places and it just looked SCREWED UP! my adjuster or cable was creaking sooooooo bad, i adjusted the adjuster soooo far tightened (screwed out) and it didn't even make one slight difference! the clutch wouldn't even disengage enough to change gears! WOW!
anyway, i put the stock cable in, and it barely fit onto my aftermarket AM double-hook quadrant. i tightened the adjuster as far in as it could go before tightening it drew blood (huge gash from muscle-tightening it) and it BARELY didn't fit all the way (to the first hook, not even the second! is that bad?). so i hooked the under-dash end to the first hook, and then used a crowbar to push the clutch fork forward, like i would be disengaging the clutch, and i clicked the tranny-end into the clutch fork. all done, piece of cake, took like 10 minutes.
so i drove it around and it hooked onto gear better than i can even remember. aftermarket cables are terrible. worst item you could buy for your car most likely. i can't believe in one month the thing was shot to bits.
BUT! huuuuge but. now, the throwout bearing squeals like a little ****in pig!!!!!!!! not a huge, overwhelming screaming, but little chirps that i can pick up at a stoplight while idling, and when i slowly make the rpms rise up i can hear another noise that doesn't sound like ONLY the engine. also, i can feel a good amount of pulsating through the clutch pedal, and even through the brake pedal i feel a tiny amount of a pulsating feeling.
QUESTION: why the hell does it make the noise when i maybe pushed the clutch fork NOT EVEN half an inch forward to put the tranny-end of the cable in the fork, and it even recoiled back a tiny bit because of the shape of the stock cable! with the aftermarket cables, when it was adjusted this far inward (adjuster screwed in, essentially "loosening" the cable) i would hear absolutely no TOB noise. now i always hear it.
is something else wrong here??? anyone have any help?
anyway, i put the stock cable in, and it barely fit onto my aftermarket AM double-hook quadrant. i tightened the adjuster as far in as it could go before tightening it drew blood (huge gash from muscle-tightening it) and it BARELY didn't fit all the way (to the first hook, not even the second! is that bad?). so i hooked the under-dash end to the first hook, and then used a crowbar to push the clutch fork forward, like i would be disengaging the clutch, and i clicked the tranny-end into the clutch fork. all done, piece of cake, took like 10 minutes.
so i drove it around and it hooked onto gear better than i can even remember. aftermarket cables are terrible. worst item you could buy for your car most likely. i can't believe in one month the thing was shot to bits.
BUT! huuuuge but. now, the throwout bearing squeals like a little ****in pig!!!!!!!! not a huge, overwhelming screaming, but little chirps that i can pick up at a stoplight while idling, and when i slowly make the rpms rise up i can hear another noise that doesn't sound like ONLY the engine. also, i can feel a good amount of pulsating through the clutch pedal, and even through the brake pedal i feel a tiny amount of a pulsating feeling.
QUESTION: why the hell does it make the noise when i maybe pushed the clutch fork NOT EVEN half an inch forward to put the tranny-end of the cable in the fork, and it even recoiled back a tiny bit because of the shape of the stock cable! with the aftermarket cables, when it was adjusted this far inward (adjuster screwed in, essentially "loosening" the cable) i would hear absolutely no TOB noise. now i always hear it.
is something else wrong here??? anyone have any help?
#2
How much free play is there in the pedal? When pressing on the pedal with your hand it should move 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" before you feel the throwout bearing start to depress the clutch spring fingers.
If the free play is less than an inch, or not there at all, then the cable is too tight and it is pre-loading the ToB causing it to be spinning all the time, under load, which will wear it out in short order...
If the free play is less than an inch, or not there at all, then the cable is too tight and it is pre-loading the ToB causing it to be spinning all the time, under load, which will wear it out in short order...
#4
Sounds like your throwout bearing is slightly coming in contact with
your clutch spring fingers.Your throwout bearing will fail slowly and the
squealing noise will only get louder and worse as time go's on.
Replace your throwout bearing and since everything will be apart you
could also install a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch!
your clutch spring fingers.Your throwout bearing will fail slowly and the
squealing noise will only get louder and worse as time go's on.
Replace your throwout bearing and since everything will be apart you
could also install a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch!
#5
so, i bought a new AM clutch cable about a month ago... it's totally shot. wires (that support the black casing??) were sticking out of both ends, and the black cable itself looked like a slithering snake, with bends in weird places and it just looked SCREWED UP! my adjuster or cable was creaking sooooooo bad, i adjusted the adjuster soooo far tightened (screwed out) and it didn't even make one slight difference! the clutch wouldn't even disengage enough to change gears! WOW!
anyway, i put the stock cable in, and it barely fit onto my aftermarket AM double-hook quadrant. i tightened the adjuster as far in as it could go before tightening it drew blood (huge gash from muscle-tightening it) and it BARELY didn't fit all the way (to the first hook, not even the second! is that bad?). so i hooked the under-dash end to the first hook, and then used a crowbar to push the clutch fork forward, like i would be disengaging the clutch, and i clicked the tranny-end into the clutch fork. all done, piece of cake, took like 10 minutes.
so i drove it around and it hooked onto gear better than i can even remember. aftermarket cables are terrible. worst item you could buy for your car most likely. i can't believe in one month the thing was shot to bits.
BUT! huuuuge but. now, the throwout bearing squeals like a little ****in pig!!!!!!!! not a huge, overwhelming screaming, but little chirps that i can pick up at a stoplight while idling, and when i slowly make the rpms rise up i can hear another noise that doesn't sound like ONLY the engine. also, i can feel a good amount of pulsating through the clutch pedal, and even through the brake pedal i feel a tiny amount of a pulsating feeling.
QUESTION: why the hell does it make the noise when i maybe pushed the clutch fork NOT EVEN half an inch forward to put the tranny-end of the cable in the fork, and it even recoiled back a tiny bit because of the shape of the stock cable! with the aftermarket cables, when it was adjusted this far inward (adjuster screwed in, essentially "loosening" the cable) i would hear absolutely no TOB noise. now i always hear it.
is something else wrong here??? anyone have any help?
anyway, i put the stock cable in, and it barely fit onto my aftermarket AM double-hook quadrant. i tightened the adjuster as far in as it could go before tightening it drew blood (huge gash from muscle-tightening it) and it BARELY didn't fit all the way (to the first hook, not even the second! is that bad?). so i hooked the under-dash end to the first hook, and then used a crowbar to push the clutch fork forward, like i would be disengaging the clutch, and i clicked the tranny-end into the clutch fork. all done, piece of cake, took like 10 minutes.
so i drove it around and it hooked onto gear better than i can even remember. aftermarket cables are terrible. worst item you could buy for your car most likely. i can't believe in one month the thing was shot to bits.
BUT! huuuuge but. now, the throwout bearing squeals like a little ****in pig!!!!!!!! not a huge, overwhelming screaming, but little chirps that i can pick up at a stoplight while idling, and when i slowly make the rpms rise up i can hear another noise that doesn't sound like ONLY the engine. also, i can feel a good amount of pulsating through the clutch pedal, and even through the brake pedal i feel a tiny amount of a pulsating feeling.
QUESTION: why the hell does it make the noise when i maybe pushed the clutch fork NOT EVEN half an inch forward to put the tranny-end of the cable in the fork, and it even recoiled back a tiny bit because of the shape of the stock cable! with the aftermarket cables, when it was adjusted this far inward (adjuster screwed in, essentially "loosening" the cable) i would hear absolutely no TOB noise. now i always hear it.
is something else wrong here??? anyone have any help?
break on us mustang enthusiasts.The OEM Ford clutch cables are
the strongest and most durable to use.I wouldn't use anything but,
a OEM Ford clutch cable on my mustang.
#6
Sounds like your throwout bearing is slightly coming in contact with
your clutch spring fingers.Your throwout bearing will fail slowly and the
squealing noise will only get louder and worse as time go's on.
Replace your throwout bearing and since everything will be apart you
could also install a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch!
your clutch spring fingers.Your throwout bearing will fail slowly and the
squealing noise will only get louder and worse as time go's on.
Replace your throwout bearing and since everything will be apart you
could also install a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch!
#7
LLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL LLLL
ok so no one has any idea? does this seem odd? how i barely moved the clutch fork out to get the cable in place, and the TOB is still spinning? there is absolutely no play in the pedal and i can feel pulsating....
ok so no one has any idea? does this seem odd? how i barely moved the clutch fork out to get the cable in place, and the TOB is still spinning? there is absolutely no play in the pedal and i can feel pulsating....
#8
i need some serious help on this one. i put my stock cable on after my month old aftermarket cable was completely shot...
i have an American Muscle aftermarket double-hook quadrant, it didn't come anywhere close to fitting on the second hook, so i hooked it to the first hook...
it didn;t get all the way to the clutch fork, so i had to use a crowbar and move the clutch forward to clip it in place. probably about an inch... and it clipped in place...
now the TOB is pulsating through my clutch pedal, and can hear it when at high rpms in, say, first gear... light throttle but high rpms....
anybody???
i have an American Muscle aftermarket double-hook quadrant, it didn't come anywhere close to fitting on the second hook, so i hooked it to the first hook...
it didn;t get all the way to the clutch fork, so i had to use a crowbar and move the clutch forward to clip it in place. probably about an inch... and it clipped in place...
now the TOB is pulsating through my clutch pedal, and can hear it when at high rpms in, say, first gear... light throttle but high rpms....
anybody???
#9
Sounds like your throwout bearing is slightly coming in contact with
your clutch spring fingers.Your throwout bearing will fail slowly and the
squealing noise will only get louder and worse as time go's on.
Replace your throwout bearing and since everything will be apart you
could also install a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch!
your clutch spring fingers.Your throwout bearing will fail slowly and the
squealing noise will only get louder and worse as time go's on.
Replace your throwout bearing and since everything will be apart you
could also install a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch!
Last edited by uberstang1; 12-24-2010 at 05:56 AM.
#10
Are you saying there is zero freeplay in the pedal? If so the clutch is not adjusted properly. I just re-read you're original post and if the firewall adjuster is all the way in and you still can't reach the closest hook on the quadrant theres a problem. With the adjuster all the way in and by using a prybar to connect the cable via the bottom chances are the cable isn't long enough to work with the double hook quadrant and you are actually driving around with the clutch partially disengaged, especially considering you have ZERO pedal freeplay. In basic terms at all times this is simulating the clutch pedal being pushed in a bit if that makes it easier to understand. This will cause premature clutch and TOB failure. When I switched to a solid quadrant I orginally had a double hook, firewall adjuster, and adjustable cable and it was fine because you had adjustability on the bottom of the cable at the clutch fork. When my adjustable cable broke I switched back to the stock cable and the double hook quadrant just wouldn't cut it because the cable was to short and I needed to switch too a triple hook quadrant.
Last edited by uberstang1; 12-24-2010 at 08:46 AM.