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Just another turbo DOHC build thread

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Old 09-26-2011, 02:03 PM
  #51  
kugzgt
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its gonna be one fun ride!
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:55 PM
  #52  
WannaBeGearHead
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Originally Posted by turbo232
i am sure WannaBeGearHead will have an anuerism because a wonderful UPR product has again proven to be crap. reason 1 i would go with that turbo kit is i found out they require UPR to make it work.
No anuerism here. I had zero problems with their stuff on my car.

Looks like you're coming around. Never heard of a person buying a turbo kit just for the suspension it comes with...but whatever floats your boat.
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:57 AM
  #53  
ShadowDrake
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No pictures tonight due to frustration.

Apparently I got a 96-98 cobra timing chain cover. That's fine and dandy. Except my belt tensioner doesn't fit it. And good luck finding a belt diagram for one. Took me about an hour of searching to come to a conclusion. So, more parts on the way from rockauto. Ugh. This is turning into a bit of a monster now.

The continental heads apparently have BOTH freezeout plugs in the back instead of the passenger side one routed to the heater core. The LDC Chicago head cooling mod replaces both. Too bad they're out of business. So the back of neither of my heads will be cooled, but that's fine for now. I just need to figure out how to hook up my heater core and it looks like I'm going to have an ugly hose running across the top of the engine because I don't know how I'd tuck it away otherwise. It won't be permanent, I'd just need a cobra coolant crossover.

Gonna go knock some more of this stuff out tomorrow and hope I don't have to spend too much more money on random junk like this.
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Old 09-28-2011, 12:10 AM
  #54  
ShadowDrake
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Little more done today. Going to go find all the missing oiling components tomorrow before I go into work and pick up a new belt.

My coils have a different connector so it's a little more complex than "swap the polarity." I'm going to assume the polarity definitely has to be swapped (cliffyk, help! Wiring diagrams please?) so I'll snip the connectors off my continental harness when I do it.

Also, while I have adapters already for the 42# injectors, it looks like they won't all clear the intake manifold with the adapters on there. So I may snip the connectors for that off the continental harness too. In for a penny, in for a pound.

More small stuff tomorrow. The goal is to try to leave work super early on Thursday and get the engine up in the car then tackle all the little stuff while waiting for my thermostat housing and belt tensioner to show up.
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:52 AM
  #55  
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Almost there now!

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Old 10-02-2011, 07:59 AM
  #56  
turbo232
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Originally Posted by WannaBeGearHead
No anuerism here. I had zero problems with their stuff on my car.

Looks like you're coming around. Never heard of a person buying a turbo kit just for the suspension it comes with...but whatever floats your boat.
i like how you deleted the "not" in the post of mine you quoted. UPR is crap. a buddy just got a K-member from them, against my advice, and it wouldn't even fit. they told him the heads were probably on backwards. it was 2 inches off center and the left was 1 inch too far forward.....quality piece i tell you.
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:03 PM
  #57  
WannaBeGearHead
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Originally Posted by turbo232
i like how you deleted the "not" in the post of mine you quoted. UPR is crap. a buddy just got a K-member from them, against my advice, and it wouldn't even fit. they told him the heads were probably on backwards. it was 2 inches off center and the left was 1 inch too far forward.....quality piece i tell you.
You're fkn stupid kid. Funny how the post I quoted of yours now says it was edited 2 minutes before you posted this. GTFO
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:14 PM
  #58  
ShadowDrake
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Almost done! Still having problems.

The last 1% to finish my car has been a total bitch.

Last week I went to drive the car home on monday night. I had started it a handful of times before and had about 20 minutes of runtime on the engine. Everything sounded good, (little) leaks, nothing major. It would easily make the 4 mile trip home. Or so I thought.

Got about 3 miles and one of the lines to the oil filter relocation bracket blew off. I didn't realize it for about 60 seconds when I randomly looked down to see zero oil pressure. Immediately shut it off. No adverse effects so far it seems like, but time will tell.

On that trip home, I had warm air coming from the heater core. I replaced the stupid rubber lines with some braided stainless ones from Aeroquip. Went to take the car out tonight. Now I have no warm air in the heater core and no water flowing through the radiator. My ECT sensor works properly and using the diag mode on the cluster I could read the coolant temp. It just kept rising up above 110c before I stopped driving and parked it. It warmed up very quickly (about 5-10 mins) but it just seems like something isn't right. It's still full but I guess I need to check my coolant routing. Does anyone have a coolant routing diagram for the 4.6 DOHC?

Also, my power steering pump is terribly noisy. All the fluid had to be drained to attach the new power steering cooler. I refilled it with some generic Mercon ATF as called for by the manual. I've turned the rack end to end a few times but the pump is still very noisy. And the fluid that's left in the reserve is brown and muddy looking. It was 100% silent before this

Anyone got any tips to offer?
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Old 10-09-2011, 04:36 AM
  #59  
01snake
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I believe modularspeed on M1R had similar problems with his oil relocation blowing off and sid you had to really tighten down on it and watch it.



Same thing happened to him with it blowing off...
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:21 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by 01snake
I believe modularspeed on M1R had similar problems with his oil relocation blowing off and sid you had to really tighten down on it and watch it.



Same thing happened to him with it blowing off...
I bought some braided stainless lines and fittings. $60 per line haha... but it should be good forever now. That's just something that would eat away at me, knowing the lines could fail at any time and it might cost me my motor and turbo. I'm trying to make the build as reliable as possible because it's going to be my DD still.

Now I just have the heater core/radiator/thermostat and power steering problems to fix. Adjust the exhaust, get an alignment. Relocate the wideband. Reinstall the sway bar somehow. And uhh... finally get around to swapping the cruise control cable. Gotta remove the driver's side splash guard for that so I'm not really in a rush there.

Does anyone know how different the 2v and 4v thermostats are? I re-used my SOHC t-stat because it's a 170 and is difficult to find. I compared it to the stock DOHC one I had with my motor and it looks very similar in design. I can't see it causing any problems but what do I know?
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