Went to track for first time with nitrous!
12-05-2011, 04:40 PM
#21
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I would suggest making 1 or 2 passes without nitrous and then a couple with it for comparison on trap speeds. A 100 shot should pick you up a decent gain in trap speed. About a 100rwhp gain picked up my trap by 8-9mph.
Is it a wet or dry kit?
Is it a wet or dry kit?
Last edited by TRUEBLUE3934; 12-05-2011 at 04:42 PM.
12-07-2011, 07:36 AM
#24
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Also if it matters, i didnt purge when i got up to the line, it just completely slipped my mind for some reason.
As for the fuel and nitrous jets..let me check when i get home, cause i honestly cnt think of it off the to of my head haha
As for the fuel and nitrous jets..let me check when i get home, cause i honestly cnt think of it off the to of my head haha
12-07-2011, 03:40 PM
#25
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Not purging it will make it hit softer when it activates. There is likely to be a brief lag and a rich spike if the nitrous has not been purged. I still have not added a purge kit to my set-up, but it will be done before next spring.
I'd be very interested to know what size each of the jets are. I assume that you have not had a custom tune made for the nitrous usage?! Do you have a nitrous pressure gauge in the system and a bottle warmer? The bottle pressure is important as well.
I'd be very interested to know what size each of the jets are. I assume that you have not had a custom tune made for the nitrous usage?! Do you have a nitrous pressure gauge in the system and a bottle warmer? The bottle pressure is important as well.
12-07-2011, 08:50 PM
#27
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Bottle pressure is an important aspect of nitrous systems. Ideally, you want to target between 950-1000psi. Significantly more or less can have noticeable results.
The .046 and .030 jets in my car would be rich. A little rich is safer than a little lean, but the .046 nitrous jet goes perfect with a .028 fuel jet in my car. I am not suggesting that you should make that change if you had your car tuned with those jets.
However, I can say that the .046 nitrous & .028 fuel only gained me 60rwhp. That helps me understand the traps a little better, since I was basing my conclusions on a 100rwhp gain. Note that some nitrous kits rate their HP at the flywheel, not at the rear wheels. ZEX is one of them.
If you want better results at the track, do add a pressure gauge, a bottle heater, and a purge kit. You will get MUCH more consistent results from your nitrous that way.
Good luck and let us know how it goes next time out!!!
The .046 and .030 jets in my car would be rich. A little rich is safer than a little lean, but the .046 nitrous jet goes perfect with a .028 fuel jet in my car. I am not suggesting that you should make that change if you had your car tuned with those jets.
However, I can say that the .046 nitrous & .028 fuel only gained me 60rwhp. That helps me understand the traps a little better, since I was basing my conclusions on a 100rwhp gain. Note that some nitrous kits rate their HP at the flywheel, not at the rear wheels. ZEX is one of them.
If you want better results at the track, do add a pressure gauge, a bottle heater, and a purge kit. You will get MUCH more consistent results from your nitrous that way.
Good luck and let us know how it goes next time out!!!
12-08-2011, 07:08 AM
#28
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: New jersey
Posts: 403
Yeah i have a purge..im going to be getting a pressure gauge and bottle heater...
I really appreciate your help man!, I also just invested in nittos for the track. So I think im gonna be able to get better times next season
I really appreciate your help man!, I also just invested in nittos for the track. So I think im gonna be able to get better times next season
12-08-2011, 08:17 PM
#29
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Another addition to the nitrous system that I would suggest if you can afford to get it is a window switch. It would allow you to set a minimum activation rpm (nitrous wouldn't activate unless rpm are above the set minimum) and a max rpm (nitrous deactivates when rpm reach the set maximum). The max is WAY more critical since you definitely DON'T want to hit your rev limiter with nitrous activated. Serious damage can occur in an instant like that.
You will love the DRs! They will help you lower your ETs by quite a bit. You have to REALLY heat up the Nittos to get them sticky though.
You will love the DRs! They will help you lower your ETs by quite a bit. You have to REALLY heat up the Nittos to get them sticky though.
12-08-2011, 10:15 PM
#30
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Unless he spun his tires a long way down the track (I hope he would have pedaled it a bit before doing that), he wouldn't have lost 5,6,7 mph in 1/4 trap speed. Without more information, I still cling to the idea that he is missing a fair amount of the power his 100 shot should produce.
Pi or not, the 100 shot should be getting him much better traps. My car with only 3.73 gears, 240rwhp, and a pair of very old and dry factory original street tires was trapping 81.5-82mph in the 1/8 and 101.5-102 in the 1/4. I just can't see a 1/4 trap below 106mph with a 100 shot.
On motor alone (283rwhp) I trap 108mph (at our local slow track) to as much as 112mph (at our fast track). I would expect the 100 shot to get him to at least 275rwhp.
Trap speed is mostly about power to weight ratio.
I'm hoping to be able to help him out a little, but need some more details to see if I can...
Pi or not, the 100 shot should be getting him much better traps. My car with only 3.73 gears, 240rwhp, and a pair of very old and dry factory original street tires was trapping 81.5-82mph in the 1/8 and 101.5-102 in the 1/4. I just can't see a 1/4 trap below 106mph with a 100 shot.
On motor alone (283rwhp) I trap 108mph (at our local slow track) to as much as 112mph (at our fast track). I would expect the 100 shot to get him to at least 275rwhp.
Trap speed is mostly about power to weight ratio.
I'm hoping to be able to help him out a little, but need some more details to see if I can...
Bottle pressure was down because it was cooler out, get a bottle heater. You were probably only spraying a 50-75 shot. I bet this is the problem.