Installing 4.10's... rebuild rear?
#1
Installing 4.10's... rebuild rear?
Ok so I'm about 90% sure my pinion bearing is shot, so I decided since I have to take everything apart I should do some gears. My question is, should I replace my clutch packs seals and all bearings while in there too? Obviously my pinion bearing has to be replaced but should I do the others as well? Also should I spend the money and do new clutch packs too or do you think my stockers will last a bit longer? The car has 83k miles on it and wasn't driven too hard it's whole life, the clutches in it are still good (read: still spin both rear tires... not sure on exact life left).
So basically what stuff do you guys replace when swapping gears?
So basically what stuff do you guys replace when swapping gears?
#2
Just found this in another post, guess this is a must and probably a good idea to do it all?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/rearen...93-BaseFitment
http://www.americanmuscle.com/rearen...93-BaseFitment
#4
i just did the bearing and seal kit on mine. the clutch packs made noise when turning when i first got the car at 86k miles, but stopped after i changed the diff fluid and added friction modifier. accidentally overfilled the diff and it busted the pinion seal so i had to get that replaced. then i added the gears a couple months ago, replaced all bearings and seals, and at 103k miles still have no noise from the clutch packs.
the way i see it, if the clutch packs give out, that'll just give me an excuse to buy a 31 spline diff and axles. but thats just my opinion
the way i see it, if the clutch packs give out, that'll just give me an excuse to buy a 31 spline diff and axles. but thats just my opinion
#5
Well I have the money to do everything if I wanted to, but I'm trying to save for a house so I don't want to just burn money like its newpaper. If the stock clutch packs will last 200k miles I see no reason to change them now. But if it's something that tends to go bad at 100k I see no reason not to.
For the cost of the bearing kit and seal kit I'll probably just do all that, but the clutch packs are another 125 bucks and that's more what I'm debating on now. Is there anything else I would have to change in there? I hit on all the components right?
For the cost of the bearing kit and seal kit I'll probably just do all that, but the clutch packs are another 125 bucks and that's more what I'm debating on now. Is there anything else I would have to change in there? I hit on all the components right?
#6
http://www.americanmuscle.com/rearendrebuild.html - just went on sale, be sure to use the disc code on there too. also, i have heard several recommendations, including one of the two mechanics who installed my gears who is a trusted friend, that mobil1 is the way to go for gear oil. pricey, but supposedly much much better for your rear than other oils.
i mean if you can do all the installation yourself, i guess doing the clutch packs would be worth it. however, seeing as how a 31 spline setup is much more desirable in almost every way, i personally wouldn't waste the time/money on rebuilding the stock 28.
i mean if you can do all the installation yourself, i guess doing the clutch packs would be worth it. however, seeing as how a 31 spline setup is much more desirable in almost every way, i personally wouldn't waste the time/money on rebuilding the stock 28.
#7
http://www.americanmuscle.com/rearendrebuild.html - just went on sale, be sure to use the disc code on there too. also, i have heard several recommendations, including one of the two mechanics who installed my gears who is a trusted friend, that mobil1 is the way to go for gear oil. pricey, but supposedly much much better for your rear than other oils.
i mean if you can do all the installation yourself, i guess doing the clutch packs would be worth it. however, seeing as how a 31 spline setup is much more desirable in almost every way, i personally wouldn't waste the time/money on rebuilding the stock 28.
i mean if you can do all the installation yourself, i guess doing the clutch packs would be worth it. however, seeing as how a 31 spline setup is much more desirable in almost every way, i personally wouldn't waste the time/money on rebuilding the stock 28.
But as far as the 31 splines, why would I need it? What's wrong with the 28 from the factory? My car can't be more than 280 hp and maybe 320 tq on a cold winter day? I don't plan on anymore mods really, even if I did somehow end up with full bolt ons and cams I can't see how the 28 is bad. I'll never run anything but a street tire on this car so I feel like the tires would spin before I broke the rear.
#8
the 31 spline setup is more durable and more resistant to breaking under heavy torque load. if you're planning on staying where you're at, keeping street tires on at all times, and avoiding hard launches, you should be fine with the 28 spline setup.