4.6L General DiscussionThis section is for non-tech specific information pertaining to 4.6L (Modular) Mustangs built from 1996 to 2004.
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So I recently installed a zex wet system. I am running the 100 jets. I also have installed a window switch that is set to activate at 3100 rpm. However I jacked up the window switch wiring and I sprayed at like 2500. Nothing catastrophic happened during the spray. After I sprayed one more time after fixing the wiring. This time it activated at the proper 3100 rpm.
As soon as the has hit I broke traction so bad I had to get out of the gas. I was testing to see if I had the switch properly wired and now I did. However after, the car seemed bogged down. I drove to a stop light where it just stalled and died. After about an hour or so I got it back started and drove it home missing.
Once I got home I have the trouble code coil on plug for #1 cylinder. I replaced the coil and started it. It seemed to be fine. I drove it a bit and it drove fine a while then started missing again. I came home checked the coil and it was not really firing from what I could tell. I removed it while the car was running. No spark. So I took the coil from cylinder 5 and put it on there. No spark. So I took the coil from cylinder 6 and put it on 5. It worked. Then I took the coil and put it on 1 and it worked. Bought another new coil. All coils are now firing. I haven't drove it again yet. It idles fine but then when you push the clutch in, the idle drops a good bit to where it doesn't sound right.
When you release the clutch it goes back to normal. This is driving me nuts. I don't know if anyone has any insight but all is appreciated. Sorry for the long read
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Yes I was running a bama tune for 100 shot of nitrous. Also the coil on plug cylinder 1 code just came back. I took the coil out with it running and it was sparking. So the coil appears to be good
Mail order tune for Nitrous of FI is not good. Eventhough the company you mentioned is great at doing tunes when you get into boosters (FI or Nitrous) it's really best to get on a dyno for a full custom tune because any small variables in your A/F that the mail order tune won't pick up on is magnified by like 10 times.
Anyways, any smoke coming out the tailpipe? How'd the plug look on cyl 1?
What codes are stored in PCM?
08 S197 GT Auto: FRPP Strut Tower Brace, FRPP Bullitt CAI, Bama 91-P Tune, VBX remaned valve body with Superior Transmission Shift Kit.
Pending upgrades: Shaftmasters Aluminum 3.5" DS, FRPP 3.73 gears, Axle back exahust (?)
Originally Posted by LostBoyz
if you are getting 29mpg in your 5.0, you aren't driving it correctly
yeah it was a bama mail order tune. the only DTC that im getting is the"p0301 coil on plug" code. I can clear it and it still comes back. even when it does come on, i have pull the coil with the car running and it the car will stumble and i can observe steady spark. The car seems to idle fine. When you push the clutch in the car will drop idle to by at least 100. Down to where it never idled before all of this. The plug on cylinder 1 looked ok. Actually they all did. There is some light white smoke coming from the tail pipes now. it isnt a thick cloud or anything. It is however another thing that was not happening prior to this. That along with the sweet smelling puddles of water that now accumulate under the tail pipe, i'm fearing the worst. I will drain the oil and see if it looks milky.
Misfire codes can be thrown for any reason that causes a misfire (lack of a combustible fuel mix, compression, or spark), not just ignition problems. As suggested by others you need to do a compression test to first make sure there is not a mechanical problem, then move on to fueling and ignition.
my bad man it is 0351 i was just going from memory, on the tuner i used to read the code it actually had the code and the description. i just drained the oil. It was very light brown but i didnt see any milky watery seperation. I did notice very very tiny specs of metal though
The most likely cause for P0351, if the COP checks out, is a wiring problem in the red wire from the CCRM to the COP (KOEO there should be +12V between the red wire and ground), or the light green/white wire from the COP to the PCM; or a blown driver in the PCM.
Thirty seconds with a diagnostic scope will tell you which...
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