rear end clunky
#12
I have a clunk in my rear end as well. I took it to the dealership who refused to do anything about it(suprise suprise).
I had heard that the stock UCA has some play between the front bushing and the mounting bolt resulting in a possible clunking noise. I replaced my UCA with this J&M part:
http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=21
The clunking is now reduced which makes me a happy camper. Next up, Driveshaft!
I had heard that the stock UCA has some play between the front bushing and the mounting bolt resulting in a possible clunking noise. I replaced my UCA with this J&M part:
http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=21
The clunking is now reduced which makes me a happy camper. Next up, Driveshaft!
#14
+1 on finding where the clunk is coming from; chances are it is the rear end.
The clunking is most likely caused from too much backlash (slack), but could be caused by other things too, depending how bad it is.
Getting gears done properly will get rid of most of it, and leave just enough slack for proper performance and life.
Will it hurt? Probably not.
The clunking is most likely caused from too much backlash (slack), but could be caused by other things too, depending how bad it is.
Getting gears done properly will get rid of most of it, and leave just enough slack for proper performance and life.
Will it hurt? Probably not.
#15
Bringing back ye olde thread...
So about a year ago I had the trans fluid changed and it took away this weird noise I'd get from the torque converter (a swishing "shh" sound) but the rear clunk is still there. It only happens once it gets hot and it's worse in the summer.
Today I finally took it in to the dealer and one of the guys test rode with me. Of course the car didn't want to do it even though it was doing it before me arriving. GRRR! But I was able to make it happen by manually downshifting so he could hear it.
I had them do a rear end service which is replacing the fluid and rebuilding the clutch packs in the diff. This came to about $130. I won't know until later but so far so good. I only had a very very slight clunk on the way from the dealer to work (about a mile away). This is probably normal. But I really need to drive for a longer period of time to make sure it gets hot. So when I leave for home later that will happen.
I figured that since it's quiet when cold but only clunky when hot then maybe since the fluid has about 74K miles on it, it has broken down some and the viscosity is not what it should be (the weight) once it gets hot so slack is introduced. That's my theory and I could be completely wrong about that.
I asked them about rebuilding the rear with new gears and how much that would cost. The labor is about $600 since they say it's a 6 hour job. Buying the parts from them (FRPP parts) would run me $658. ROFL! I was like, no I can get that stuff A LOT cheaper. I could get all parts and fluid for less than 300. But even then, this would end up being close to $1K when you include that high labor. Unfortunately, I don't know of any one else that could do it that I would trust. I don't want whining or buzzing and the rear end guy at my dealer is damn good I hear.
So about a year ago I had the trans fluid changed and it took away this weird noise I'd get from the torque converter (a swishing "shh" sound) but the rear clunk is still there. It only happens once it gets hot and it's worse in the summer.
Today I finally took it in to the dealer and one of the guys test rode with me. Of course the car didn't want to do it even though it was doing it before me arriving. GRRR! But I was able to make it happen by manually downshifting so he could hear it.
I had them do a rear end service which is replacing the fluid and rebuilding the clutch packs in the diff. This came to about $130. I won't know until later but so far so good. I only had a very very slight clunk on the way from the dealer to work (about a mile away). This is probably normal. But I really need to drive for a longer period of time to make sure it gets hot. So when I leave for home later that will happen.
I figured that since it's quiet when cold but only clunky when hot then maybe since the fluid has about 74K miles on it, it has broken down some and the viscosity is not what it should be (the weight) once it gets hot so slack is introduced. That's my theory and I could be completely wrong about that.
I asked them about rebuilding the rear with new gears and how much that would cost. The labor is about $600 since they say it's a 6 hour job. Buying the parts from them (FRPP parts) would run me $658. ROFL! I was like, no I can get that stuff A LOT cheaper. I could get all parts and fluid for less than 300. But even then, this would end up being close to $1K when you include that high labor. Unfortunately, I don't know of any one else that could do it that I would trust. I don't want whining or buzzing and the rear end guy at my dealer is damn good I hear.
#16
Alright fluid change didn't help. Still does it.
Oh well, it needed the change anyway.
So I remembered back when Brenspeed was trying to figure out my flashing O/D light problem that they gave me a tune to test that had the trans tuning set to stock. That tune never clunked. Once I went back to a tune that changed trans stuff the clunk came back. Stock, it seems, waits until the RPM is well under 1K, close to idle I think, and then it shifts. It seems this trans is clunky if you downshift over 1K. Shift pressures may have something to do with it too, I'm not real sure.
So, if I can ever get a hold of Chris Rose again (he seems to be a lot more busy these days I think) I'll get him to make some tweaks to my tune when it shifts from 3->2 to see if we can stop the abrupt downshift causing the clunk. Maybe if on that shift it can wait until it's at or a little below 1K and try to shift as softly as possible it will stop. It's gotta be a tune thing I think now.
Oh well, it needed the change anyway.
So I remembered back when Brenspeed was trying to figure out my flashing O/D light problem that they gave me a tune to test that had the trans tuning set to stock. That tune never clunked. Once I went back to a tune that changed trans stuff the clunk came back. Stock, it seems, waits until the RPM is well under 1K, close to idle I think, and then it shifts. It seems this trans is clunky if you downshift over 1K. Shift pressures may have something to do with it too, I'm not real sure.
So, if I can ever get a hold of Chris Rose again (he seems to be a lot more busy these days I think) I'll get him to make some tweaks to my tune when it shifts from 3->2 to see if we can stop the abrupt downshift causing the clunk. Maybe if on that shift it can wait until it's at or a little below 1K and try to shift as softly as possible it will stop. It's gotta be a tune thing I think now.
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Dragonus18
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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09-09-2015 01:21 AM