BBK throttle body voltage help needed!
#1
BBK throttle body voltage help needed!
I have an 07 mustang gt and i am trying to install a BBK throttle body.
Boy! this was a pain.
one of the TBS screws broke off because there was soo much locktight in there.
I took a voltage reading on the stock TB before hand, but maybe I did something wrong because my reading was 1.15~1.16.
I put on the new one and adjusted it to the same, but it seems to keep fluctuating after i turn it on. I turned it off and tried again, and the reading was like .98
I have been going up and down. Does it matter if all screws are in when testing, etc? Obviously the car is running like crap.
Do you know any shops to call for suggetsions?
I don't want to have to take the whole thing back off and put the other on to get a reading....
Or, can I just hold the old throttle body without mounting it, hook up the TBS and test the voltage?
I am confused...
Thanks,
Boy! this was a pain.
one of the TBS screws broke off because there was soo much locktight in there.
I took a voltage reading on the stock TB before hand, but maybe I did something wrong because my reading was 1.15~1.16.
I put on the new one and adjusted it to the same, but it seems to keep fluctuating after i turn it on. I turned it off and tried again, and the reading was like .98
I have been going up and down. Does it matter if all screws are in when testing, etc? Obviously the car is running like crap.
Do you know any shops to call for suggetsions?
I don't want to have to take the whole thing back off and put the other on to get a reading....
Or, can I just hold the old throttle body without mounting it, hook up the TBS and test the voltage?
I am confused...
Thanks,
#2
sorry...this is all new to me.
I thought about it more, and perhaps since i am only holding the TPS in with one screw, that the TPS may be shifting.
I obviously need to replace it, so does anyone know the length, pitch, etc for the TPS bolt/screw?
for bikes, there are tons of sites for looking up OEM parts right down to the screw. anything like that for cars?
I thought about it more, and perhaps since i am only holding the TPS in with one screw, that the TPS may be shifting.
I obviously need to replace it, so does anyone know the length, pitch, etc for the TPS bolt/screw?
for bikes, there are tons of sites for looking up OEM parts right down to the screw. anything like that for cars?
#3
Fixed!
I guess this is what i get from working in the dark last night...
I went out this morning, and was like "yea, it would be nice to plug in the MAF sensor"...yeesh.
runs great now, but I must say...the stupid voltage is rediculous! I would set it, pop in a screw or two on the motor cap, and it would change! took forever to get right.
I guess this is what i get from working in the dark last night...
I went out this morning, and was like "yea, it would be nice to plug in the MAF sensor"...yeesh.
runs great now, but I must say...the stupid voltage is rediculous! I would set it, pop in a screw or two on the motor cap, and it would change! took forever to get right.
#4
You will see no HP increases from the TB unless you have
cams, headers and the like. The OEM TB flows enough
for something like 500HP.
All it does it stop working at the worst possable moment.
If you do get it worked out, keep the OEM TB and the tools
needed to change it out in the trunk....
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=1
cams, headers and the like. The OEM TB flows enough
for something like 500HP.
All it does it stop working at the worst possable moment.
If you do get it worked out, keep the OEM TB and the tools
needed to change it out in the trunk....
#6
You will see no HP increases from the TB unless you have
cams, headers and the like. The OEM TB flows enough
for something like 500HP.
All it does it stop working at the worst possable moment.
If you do get it worked out, keep the OEM TB and the tools
needed to change it out in the trunk....
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=1
cams, headers and the like. The OEM TB flows enough
for something like 500HP.
All it does it stop working at the worst possable moment.
If you do get it worked out, keep the OEM TB and the tools
needed to change it out in the trunk....
http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=1
Are they really that fickle that it could break? What breaks? sensor, spring, gears?
I definately don't want any problems, so I am certainly listening.
with that said, I have to disagree with the no HP increase statement. I don't mean to be rude, but I have done each mod one at a time, and I can tell a serious difference.
#7
it's probably a little more responsive since a small change on a big TB is more noticeable than a small change on a small TB. that responsiveness could make it feel more powerful.
Kenne Bell said the stock TB doesn't become a restriction until 600+whp. it's possible there's gains to be made before that point but they wouldn't be huge gains.
I got the Kenne Bell stage 2 which comes with a larger TB and even at close to 500whp it's not a huge gain, it's a good gain, but not huge. they advertise 21whp at 500whp, 64whp at 675whp. I only got it since I'm going to build the motor later and I don't want to pay for another $100 tune just to swap the TB, getting it now saved the money later. unless you're close to those power levels the gains, if any, will be pretty small since the motor isn't sucking in all that much air.
I'm not hating, hopefully you did gain something for your money, but without a before and after dyno you'll never really know.
Kenne Bell said the stock TB doesn't become a restriction until 600+whp. it's possible there's gains to be made before that point but they wouldn't be huge gains.
I got the Kenne Bell stage 2 which comes with a larger TB and even at close to 500whp it's not a huge gain, it's a good gain, but not huge. they advertise 21whp at 500whp, 64whp at 675whp. I only got it since I'm going to build the motor later and I don't want to pay for another $100 tune just to swap the TB, getting it now saved the money later. unless you're close to those power levels the gains, if any, will be pretty small since the motor isn't sucking in all that much air.
I'm not hating, hopefully you did gain something for your money, but without a before and after dyno you'll never really know.
#8
dID YA DO THE THROTTLE PEDAL CALIBRATION?
a LOT OF WORK WILL MAKE ALMOST ANY hp MOD
SEEM MORE 'GIDDY UPPITY' IN THE 'PANTS SEAT DYNO' DEPTMENT.
fricken caps lock....
They are just more problems than they are worth.
The cost alone does not warrant the purchase unless
you are pushing more than 500HP out of the 4.6L.
Search BBK TB or aftermarket TB and see....
a LOT OF WORK WILL MAKE ALMOST ANY hp MOD
SEEM MORE 'GIDDY UPPITY' IN THE 'PANTS SEAT DYNO' DEPTMENT.
fricken caps lock....
They are just more problems than they are worth.
The cost alone does not warrant the purchase unless
you are pushing more than 500HP out of the 4.6L.
Search BBK TB or aftermarket TB and see....
#9
it's probably a little more responsive since a small change on a big TB is more noticeable than a small change on a small TB. that responsiveness could make it feel more powerful.
Kenne Bell said the stock TB doesn't become a restriction until 600+whp. it's possible there's gains to be made before that point but they wouldn't be huge gains.
I got the Kenne Bell stage 2 which comes with a larger TB and even at close to 500whp it's not a huge gain, it's a good gain, but not huge. they advertise 21whp at 500whp, 64whp at 675whp. I only got it since I'm going to build the motor later and I don't want to pay for another $100 tune just to swap the TB, getting it now saved the money later. unless you're close to those power levels the gains, if any, will be pretty small since the motor isn't sucking in all that much air.
I'm not hating, hopefully you did gain something for your money, but without a before and after dyno you'll never really know.
Kenne Bell said the stock TB doesn't become a restriction until 600+whp. it's possible there's gains to be made before that point but they wouldn't be huge gains.
I got the Kenne Bell stage 2 which comes with a larger TB and even at close to 500whp it's not a huge gain, it's a good gain, but not huge. they advertise 21whp at 500whp, 64whp at 675whp. I only got it since I'm going to build the motor later and I don't want to pay for another $100 tune just to swap the TB, getting it now saved the money later. unless you're close to those power levels the gains, if any, will be pretty small since the motor isn't sucking in all that much air.
I'm not hating, hopefully you did gain something for your money, but without a before and after dyno you'll never really know.
i didn't pay retail for the TB, because I didn't think the anticipated gains on my current said could justify the price.
I bought it 3 months old for $200 shipped. I get unlimited tunes for life since I purchased my SCT tuner from American Muscle. They provided me BAMA custom tune for the JTL CAI and BBK TB I have.
I had the tune for just the CAI before hand, and post TB I can hear quite a difference in the air suction and exhaust note.
I would be happy with even an 8hp increase, but I would assume a 10-15hp increase.
#10
Easy tech for you...
step 1: Remove the BBK throttle body
step 2: Find the nearest trash container
step 3: place the BBK throttle body in that trash container
step 4: realize lesson learned that a TB is a waste of money for your car
step 1: Remove the BBK throttle body
step 2: Find the nearest trash container
step 3: place the BBK throttle body in that trash container
step 4: realize lesson learned that a TB is a waste of money for your car