Dyno Report 9.8:1 vs. 8.7:1 Whipple Tune
#51
it varies in the mid range but up top it's 23-25 degrees. curious what their 100 octane tune would run, I'm guessing it would be more mid range timing than anything.
I'll have to play around and do a log to see what it's doing on a full throttle run from 2000 rpm to redline.
I'll have to play around and do a log to see what it's doing on a full throttle run from 2000 rpm to redline.
I predict if you log your car you will see around 18-19 degrees total under WOT in 4th gear. It may peak at 20, but it will finish off in the 17-18 degree range most likely.
#52
Yes.
Low compression with boost is great for a street car that needs to run on pump gas. But if you're after all out power and your car is a 100% dedicated race car, high compression is your friend since you'll be running race fuel any way.
John Mihovetz runs a 281ci mod motor at 11:1 compression with 52 psi at the finish line (yes, 52 psi). His engine makes 9hp per cubic inch. The highest powered mod motors in the world are running high compression and very high boost. Of course, the fuel he has to run is beyond expensive. But it's a race car so big deal.
Another thing, don't let anyone confuse you about the 5.0's high compression and boost. It'll do just fine with a smart tune + TiVCT. These cars will have awesome power out of boost and make a crap load while in boost, but because of how efficient they are, they don't need high boost numbers to make a lot of power. The whipple being designed for it makes 600 bhp at 7 psi. This same blower would probably be at 12+ on a 3v due to the differences in flow characteristics. Don't forget boost is not power and getting hung up on boost psi is missing the point.
Now, if we can ever get to the point where E85 fuel is everywhere, that will be great for high compression high boost street cars. I look forward to this if it ever happens. E85 would be awesome b/c it's a lot cheaper than regular gas and a crap load cheaper than race gas but gives octane ratings like race gas (some of it).
Low compression with boost is great for a street car that needs to run on pump gas. But if you're after all out power and your car is a 100% dedicated race car, high compression is your friend since you'll be running race fuel any way.
John Mihovetz runs a 281ci mod motor at 11:1 compression with 52 psi at the finish line (yes, 52 psi). His engine makes 9hp per cubic inch. The highest powered mod motors in the world are running high compression and very high boost. Of course, the fuel he has to run is beyond expensive. But it's a race car so big deal.
Another thing, don't let anyone confuse you about the 5.0's high compression and boost. It'll do just fine with a smart tune + TiVCT. These cars will have awesome power out of boost and make a crap load while in boost, but because of how efficient they are, they don't need high boost numbers to make a lot of power. The whipple being designed for it makes 600 bhp at 7 psi. This same blower would probably be at 12+ on a 3v due to the differences in flow characteristics. Don't forget boost is not power and getting hung up on boost psi is missing the point.
Now, if we can ever get to the point where E85 fuel is everywhere, that will be great for high compression high boost street cars. I look forward to this if it ever happens. E85 would be awesome b/c it's a lot cheaper than regular gas and a crap load cheaper than race gas but gives octane ratings like race gas (some of it).
#53
Kenne Bell may say they have 23-25 degrees built in, but really, that's under ideal circumstances.
I predict if you log your car you will see around 18-19 degrees total under WOT in 4th gear. It may peak at 20, but it will finish off in the 17-18 degree range most likely.
I predict if you log your car you will see around 18-19 degrees total under WOT in 4th gear. It may peak at 20, but it will finish off in the 17-18 degree range most likely.
honestly I'm not too far away from getting SCT's "pro racer" software setup so I can tweak things myself. my last two cars had full standalone ECU's in them and I miss the control
#59
that's what it's priced at on their site, a dealer could be cheaper, I haven't shopped around yet. you need a tuner on top of that price for actually loading the tunes, I already have one with my Kenne Bell kit so I'm all set. it would be sick if you could make live changes like a real standalone ECU or even the modded Honda ECU's let you do that but it must be a limitation with the factory ECU.
on my last two cars I have full standalone ECU's that cost over $1,000 even second hand. to get pretty much the same capabilities for $350 is a deal plus you get factory support if you need it. I guess I'm getting older but I try not to steal everything from the interweb anymore
I just need to call them and ask them some more questions before I purchase the software but so far it's the best thing I've found out there for tuning the car yourself.
on my last two cars I have full standalone ECU's that cost over $1,000 even second hand. to get pretty much the same capabilities for $350 is a deal plus you get factory support if you need it. I guess I'm getting older but I try not to steal everything from the interweb anymore
I just need to call them and ask them some more questions before I purchase the software but so far it's the best thing I've found out there for tuning the car yourself.