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Rear lower control arms, Worth it?? Best brand?
#31
The technical answer to your question is that lowering your car changes the angle of the lower control arms with respect to the body, and that change reduces the anti-squat characteristics of the factory geometry. As such, the general consensus on all of the forums is that if you lower an S197, you should install LCA relocation brackets in order to restore the anti-squat and improve traction.
However, plenty of people hook well without the relo brackets.
However, plenty of people hook well without the relo brackets.
FYI, the rod end LCAs work better than the polyurethane bushing LCAs, but they are noisy little buggers.
#32
How low warrants relocation brackets? I did the Ebach suspension kit. I will have to look at the actual numbers but it put the fender right at the top of my tires. I have 20" wheels and 35 series tires.
Last edited by yfz450killer; 12-26-2011 at 12:34 AM.
#33
I added UMI poly/roto LCAs and weld in relo brackets at the same time. Definitely noticed a difference with less wheel hop, no more squatting and better traction. Can still break my 555s loose pretty easy from a stop though, but regardless am very happy with my purchase
#35
Truthiness^ Here's a plug for UPR as well. I blew out a bushing on the first set of LCAs I bought (from a different manufacturer) while launching on slicks at the drag strip. I replaced those with a set of UPR's rod end LCAs and the car hooks like a monster. I'm at stock height with no relocation brackets.
FYI, the rod end LCAs work better than the polyurethane bushing LCAs, but they are noisy little buggers.
FYI, the rod end LCAs work better than the polyurethane bushing LCAs, but they are noisy little buggers.
#36
The technical answer to your question is that lowering your car changes the angle of the lower control arms with respect to the body, and that change reduces the anti-squat characteristics of the factory geometry. As such, the general consensus on all of the forums is that if you lower an S197, you should install LCA relocation brackets in order to restore the anti-squat and improve traction.
However, plenty of people hook well without the relo brackets.
However, plenty of people hook well without the relo brackets.
#37
I've just never been a fan of relocation brackets... for two reasons.
#1 They introduce an additional point of failure. Why add a component that is not absolutely necessary? I'm sure we've all seen failures of relo brackets, be it with S197 cars, or 79-04 chassis with southsides or similar. It just contradicts my engineering philosophy to add components that are not necessary.
#2 Here is my personal experience with relo brackets, and this was on a Fox chassis. (same as your New Edge) When you increase the anti squat percentage, you increase the initial bite. For example, right when you let out the clutch, it'll hit or shock the rear end, forcing it down into the ground. That's a good thing, right? Well, sort of. Depending on the setup, sometimes after the initial hit on the tires, the rear axle actually rebounds and bounces back up, effectively unloading the tires and hurting traction.
I had a set of HPM Mega Bite Jrs on my '93 LX that did that. They didn't help the traction any because after the initial bite it would unload the rear end and blitz the tires.
That said, (and I'm sure my buddy Jazzer would say the same), suspension is a VERY complex topic and there are MANY MANY variables to consider. All I'm saying is that I've seen plenty of Foxes, New Edges, and S197s hook EXCEPTIONALLY well without relo brackets, so I don't run them on any of my cars.
#1 They introduce an additional point of failure. Why add a component that is not absolutely necessary? I'm sure we've all seen failures of relo brackets, be it with S197 cars, or 79-04 chassis with southsides or similar. It just contradicts my engineering philosophy to add components that are not necessary.
#2 Here is my personal experience with relo brackets, and this was on a Fox chassis. (same as your New Edge) When you increase the anti squat percentage, you increase the initial bite. For example, right when you let out the clutch, it'll hit or shock the rear end, forcing it down into the ground. That's a good thing, right? Well, sort of. Depending on the setup, sometimes after the initial hit on the tires, the rear axle actually rebounds and bounces back up, effectively unloading the tires and hurting traction.
I had a set of HPM Mega Bite Jrs on my '93 LX that did that. They didn't help the traction any because after the initial bite it would unload the rear end and blitz the tires.
That said, (and I'm sure my buddy Jazzer would say the same), suspension is a VERY complex topic and there are MANY MANY variables to consider. All I'm saying is that I've seen plenty of Foxes, New Edges, and S197s hook EXCEPTIONALLY well without relo brackets, so I don't run them on any of my cars.
#38
I've just never been a fan of relocation brackets... for two reasons.
#1 They introduce an additional point of failure. Why add a component that is not absolutely necessary? I'm sure we've all seen failures of relo brackets, be it with S197 cars, or 79-04 chassis with southsides or similar. It just contradicts my engineering philosophy to add components that are not necessary.
#2 Here is my personal experience with relo brackets, and this was on a Fox chassis. (same as your New Edge) When you increase the anti squat percentage, you increase the initial bite. For example, right when you let out the clutch, it'll hit or shock the rear end, forcing it down into the ground. That's a good thing, right? Well, sort of. Depending on the setup, sometimes after the initial hit on the tires, the rear axle actually rebounds and bounces back up, effectively unloading the tires and hurting traction.
I had a set of HPM Mega Bite Jrs on my '93 LX that did that. They didn't help the traction any because after the initial bite it would unload the rear end and blitz the tires.
That said, (and I'm sure my buddy Jazzer would say the same), suspension is a VERY complex topic and there are MANY MANY variables to consider. All I'm saying is that I've seen plenty of Foxes, New Edges, and S197s hook EXCEPTIONALLY well without relo brackets, so I don't run them on any of my cars.
#1 They introduce an additional point of failure. Why add a component that is not absolutely necessary? I'm sure we've all seen failures of relo brackets, be it with S197 cars, or 79-04 chassis with southsides or similar. It just contradicts my engineering philosophy to add components that are not necessary.
#2 Here is my personal experience with relo brackets, and this was on a Fox chassis. (same as your New Edge) When you increase the anti squat percentage, you increase the initial bite. For example, right when you let out the clutch, it'll hit or shock the rear end, forcing it down into the ground. That's a good thing, right? Well, sort of. Depending on the setup, sometimes after the initial hit on the tires, the rear axle actually rebounds and bounces back up, effectively unloading the tires and hurting traction.
I had a set of HPM Mega Bite Jrs on my '93 LX that did that. They didn't help the traction any because after the initial bite it would unload the rear end and blitz the tires.
That said, (and I'm sure my buddy Jazzer would say the same), suspension is a VERY complex topic and there are MANY MANY variables to consider. All I'm saying is that I've seen plenty of Foxes, New Edges, and S197s hook EXCEPTIONALLY well without relo brackets, so I don't run them on any of my cars.
The downward force applied during launch by this kind of setup produces the opposite reaction of lifting the body upward. (Hence why the arms I used to have were called "lift bars"). As the body rises up eventually its going to run out of travel, at the point the inertia of the body moving upward would unload the tires.
This will be a very simplified explanation but it gives you a picture of what is going on. Stand with your knees bent then push upward with some authority but not enough to actually be jumping. You feel more weight on your feet as you push up. When your legs reach the top you pay attention to how the weight of your body unloads from your feet for a second from the inertia of pushing upward. Same thing is happening to your tires.
You get a great initial hit during launch, but your tires are starting to unload by the 60ft mark and you get wheel spin.
I've had 3 04-earlier generation Mustangs in my life. I only used relocated arms on one of them. Never made that mistake again.