Burrosito

Hey guys, did a basic keyword search but nothing showed up. If there is already a thread, feel free to redirect me there.

Stock 2006 Ford Mustang GT, 5spd Manual, 75,000 Miles.

Ok, I replaced my alternator a few weeks ago with a NAPA one. Did the swap myself, simple. 135amp like manufacturer. Replaced that and my battery due to charging issues.

Well, been a few weeks and charging system is working fine. Only new problem I'm noticing is, under heavy acceleration, my electric seems to shut off. Car stays on, but anything electric shuts off.

First I noticed it with my radio. I'd do a hard acceleration, and my radio would reset itself (power off then power on, as if I turned off and on the car). Then I started noticing my dash cluster would do the same thing. Under hard acceleration, first a few lights would turn on (abs, traction control), but now it will light up a few more, and even shut off (all dials act as if the car was shut down), yet the car stays on and I continue accelerating. After I return to cruising, everything goes back to normal.

It doesn't even have to be a hard acceleration (like speed racer ****). Today, I did a heavy climb, third gear to about 4.5 rpm, and the symptoms showed up again.

Also note - I think it happens under heavy acceleration AND the RPM's hit above 3 grand quickly.

Also note - Will act up electrically when parked and revving the engine high.

Question - did I get a **** alternator from NAPA? Possibility I don't have a wire tight enough on the alternator? A whole other problem with my electric?

I'm probably about 95% sure these symptoms started AFTER I did the alternator swap. But now I'm questioning myself if it started at the same time as the original charging problem, but I doubt it.

Any help would be appreciated.

TL;DR - Quick acceleration and electrics bug out, yet car stays on, no power loss.

Nuke

Even if the alternator was disconnecting somehow, everything would still be fed from the battery momentarily. Since the engine continues to run, the plugs are sparking so power is coming from somewhere. Providing that your description of the problem is accurate, my only thought would be to look at the wiring diagrams and see how the ignition would retain power while everything else looses power and begin checking those junctions/wires.

SeanG91

Not familler with the 06 stangs but sounds like a loose dash connector or a loose wire for the dash.

Burrosito

Thanks guys. I'll start poking and prodding. The only other thing I've dine was install an aftermarket cd player, but that was way earlier this year so I doubt it was anything I did there.

I'll recheck around the battery and alternator areas to see if I made something loose.

Burrosito

Sorry for reviving, but just wanted to give an answer to what the problem was. Ended up being a bad voltage regulator on the alternator.

Did some other tests. Put a meter on it while idle, reading 14.5v. Revved up hard and voltage shot up to 19v+ and electronics would spaz out. Shouldn't go any higher than 15-16v, if that.

Replaced alternator and all is well.

JCON

Didn't read all the posts.

Just an FYI to others who may find this, if it wasn't the regulator read on:

You likely have a loose ground. Check the grounds around the front passenger side of the engine. If you lose the ground for the computer (grounds above passenger headlight) you will lose electronics but the car will continue to run. Get a wire brush and unbolt each factory ground, brush it and the contact point on the frame and wipe clean, then bolt them back in. There's one near the passenger shock tower, rear of the computer, front of the computer, and above passenger headlight. There are a few more but those are the main ones you may have disturbed.

To test this, start the car and turn on your headlights, move a window up or down, or move your convertible top. If your car shuts off, it's bad grounding. Follow above instructions.

sunstang23

Hi guys i'm a new user this is my first time on here. So here's the problem I have a 2007 Ford Mustang, and recently it shut off on me. I thought it was a bad battery, however when I took it to advanced auto and after running running a systems test, turns out the battery was fine, however since it was under warrenty I replaced it (battery is an optima rated at 720, but running at 890). So what the problem really was was the alternator. So I got that changed, but only after installing it I found out the sales rep by mistake gave me a refurbished which proved to still give me problems (example the battery light wouldnt go away, and turned out it wasn't charging the battery during standstill and it would vibrate bad at idle) so finally I changed out the alternator for a new one, and now although the battery sign and the vibration at idle is gone, now ther is a new problem. It is the same exact problem as burrosito stated. Now when ever I accelerate even a bit hard, all the electrical instruments and stero shut off and restart. And it will stay that way until I let off the pedel. Is there a simple solution to this, I really do not feel like getting the alternator changed again. Can I not just replace the sensor or something. Thank you any help is greatly appreciated.

Burrosito

I think on some alternators, you can get the regulator swapped out, or get the alternator rebuilt if you have a place that can do that (here in Orlando, a company called TRS does alternator and starter rebuilds). If the alternator is still under warranty, I'd get it swapped out. Tedious and annoying, I know, but hopefully fixes your problem.

Simon1

Get a better alternator.

Make sure all connections are clean and very tight on the alt and battery.

grex11

did you ever figure out what the problem was with your gt? im having the same exact problem same year model and with an after market stereo