smokievol

But not to highjack AgentFrosty's thread.......just do the research and do what you want to do.

outceltj

I assumed you meant to do this with the block that's already in your car. Of course you can buy bigger block to achieve 400 NA. And yea one day the bottom end will get done on mine. If u can do it then awesome with current block but like many have stated it will near impossible to drive on the street. Of course I don't see it happening buypt if u do it then awesome. If u decide to purchase a bigger block then great and be curiouse to see which way you go

pascal

OP, call Roush/Yates...
They used to build our 5.0 (Cammer based) in our race car, FR500GT.
625hp (crank) and about 590lbs of torque.
Cost was $65K for that mill for 30 hours of run time (endurance racing) and it took another $15K for refresh/rebuilt it after that time period.
We never blew one up...

Those numbers are a little radical but it gives you an idea.
I'm sure they can build you a street mill with the HP you're after for about 20 Grands or less maybe.
I'm just not sure that they mess with the 3 valve engines in a N/A application though, as they would cost more than a 4 valve for the same gains...

AgentFrosty

Danzcool, I noticed you have a 4.75l block from MMR. Are their shortblocks good stuff?? I mean, obviously its holding a good deal of power with your build. I've been looking at them very much recently, kinda comparing them to Brenspeed's B326 shortblock. I'd be interested to see which of those engines would suit my needs better, i'm looking for a shortblock that takes to high revs. Do you have any advice on which one would be better for my application?

danzcool

It's been good for me so far, I have the rev limiter set at 7K. I know there are other people who have had issues with them in the past. MMR does offer a 1 year warranty & they'll build it according to your specs (if you want specific rods, pistons, stroke, or an aluminum block, etc. at a cost). I can't speak to the Brenspeed blocks, but I know there are a lot of people who are happy with them. I went with MMR because that's what my tuner recommended when I was getting the turbos done.

Generally speaking, for high revs you would want a square aspect (bore = stroke), or close to it, beyond that, the quality of the actual rods and pistons are key in the block, then you need the valve springs in the heads to keep up with the RPMs.

debit_free_2010

Roush/Yates in Mooresville built my short block and here's some prices they quoted me 2 yr ago,

$2800 to install 3.700" sleeves, 1200 various other machine work, 1400 PP heads, 600 assemble short block.

I just had my block bored 20 over and assembled the cost was 3800 with me providing the rotating assembly.

IMVHO, It's as cheap to forge and supercharge to get 600+ rwhp than to try a 400hp NA build.

yourmyboybh1026

So, if you decide to do a different engine, why not swap a Coyote in there? Or better yet why not swap a forged Coyote from a boss 302. Here is a video of one that has 501RWHP NA. It has cams, exhaust, and the cobra jet intake.

AgentFrosty

*le sigh and facepalm*

Ok so I quoted myself from the original post, I must have not worded it right or perhaps I wrote it in a different language or something, so that's my bad. Allow me to reiterate.

I. Don't. Want. Boost. Everybody and their mother boosts their 3-valves. Yes its easy, yes it's a hell of a lot less expensive than what I'm doing, and I don't care. I don't want easy. This is going to be a challenge and that's half the fun of it. I don't want 500hp, or 600 or 700. If I wanted that much I would have bought the red and white GT500 that was sitting next to my car at the dealership. So please, please stop giving me the "you know, for the money you could go SC and get 600hp+" comments, and instead help me with my original question about which cylinder heads I should get.

And you know, yourmyboy, I briefly thought about getting a Boss crate engine, but considering the price for one of those boys is north of 15 grand, i'm going to stick with the original plan of keeping it a 3-valve. Besides, I like the sound of a 3v better than I do that of a 5.0 anyways, and once again that would just be too easy. I mean, if I'm going to spend close to that much money anyway, I'd prefer to do it in a slightly more unique way.

Oh, and by the way, with the way my parts list is looking right now, it seems I'm going to have a nice all-original 3v longblock with less than 40k miles on it for sale shortly. Any takers?? LOL

Murphdog

When I was looking at reviews of the Ford Racing intake manifold, I came across this article. It may have some good suggestions.

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...g/viewall.html

AgentFrosty

That was some really good information actually, Murphdog. I had seen that article a long time ago but couldn't find it, so I'm glad you put it up there. Its brought up some interesting things, most specifically for me in comparing Ford's two ported head options. The High Flow heads, while making around 8-10 more hp from around 5800rpm on up, seem to lag just a little behind on the midrange. For being double the cost, they don't seem a very wise investment for the gains they give. I'm wondering if having the same exhaust flow as the lesser heads might be holding the high-flow heads back some. Also, the fact that they were able to push the Hot Rod cams above 7k rpm, and make power at or above that mark, is interesting as well. Though I still don't think they would perform as well as, say, a Stage 3 Comp setup in peak hp, they still seem to be pretty solid performers, which I might look into as an alternative. I have to admit, the Hot Rod's lope is sexier than that of the Stage 3 Comp's.

I'd also be interested to see what a larger displacement, higher-compression shortblock would do to those numbers as well. Yes, veeeery interesting here...Of course I'm sitting here talking about 8-10hp here, 5-6hp there, but you do that a couple times over and that could make or break a 400+whp build. Of course, for the price of the base heads from Ford, MMR's stage 1 heads flow just 5 cfm's shy of Ford's top heads, and have a 13cfm-greater exhaust flow. Step up to their stage 2's and you have the same intake flow and even more exhaust flow. Oh yes, things are starting to get interesting.

Good stuff guys, keep it coming! I'm having fun discussing this, and I'm not even building it yet!