chwithad

I own the car of my dreams - an '05 Black Mustang GT 5speed. I purchased the car with 33k miles on it from a Ford Dealer in Wheaton, MD in 2008 and opted out of the optional warranty. It now has 63k miles on it. The only aftermarket parts I have installed are a K&N intake system and a Pypes catback exhaust.
Approximately 1.5 years after I purchased it, everything went downhill. Started (and continues to have) MIL P0345 and P0349. Yeah yeah yeah, I've heard ALL of it about the alternators being bad. Replaced mine over 4 TIMES! Both aftermarket AND O.E. Motorcraft alternators. I've had the engine engine wiring harness inspected and even had the ECM replaced. I've had my car looked at by many many different reputable shops, including Ford. I've even replaced the two cam sensors TWICE.
I never race and never drive it hard. I can't afford to be hard on it and mess anything up. Every shop I've taken it to straight out say they don't know what the problem is.
I'm tired of paying $800 for emissions waivers. I pray that there is someone on here reading this that has ANY advice/information. Thanks in advance for all and any help!

jz78817

why would you replace the alternator for cam position sensor codes? has anyone looked into the cam phasers?

chwithad

The reason is because shops told me that if the alternator diodes went bad, it could have negative effects on the power going to the cam sensors. I have slightly thought of the cam phasers, but since it's such a complicated job, I might as well get the timing chains replaced. I just would hate to pay $$$$$ for a timing chain/phaser job if it doesn't fix it since nobody knows if that would fix it or not. I wonder if there is any legal actions I could take due to a automobile manufacturer not being able to diagnose their own vehicles lol.

hootie_john

Have you replaced the battery? A weak battery can kill the alternator, especially the weak ones in our cars. If you haven't, I'd install a new battery and another new alternator together.

EDIT: Just because it will "test" good at AutoZone, doesn't mean it's good.

hootie_john

Bad alternators are known to throw cam codes (among others) on these cars.

chwithad

Yes, I've replaced BOTH the battery and the alternator at the same time.

outceltj

So these are reputable shops that keep changing the same part. Have someone check out the phazers for god sake.

jz78817

Huh, learned something new.

I'm guessing that if the alternator rectifiers are popped, the alternator dumps enough electrical noise to interfere with the cam sensor signal?

chwithad

I understand that certain repairs are expensive, but is it possible to visually inspect whether or not the phasers are bad without removing them? Thanks in advance for your help.

tx_zstang

The easy way to rule out alternator/power issues is to measure and watch voltage when you drive it. It'll stay over 14 volts when everything is ok. Usually, you'll get P034x codes when the voltage drops to around 12.5-13 volts, due to alternator.

Now, the P0349 is an interesting code, because it's telling you about an intermittent sensor issue. You could have a nicked wire or an improperly seated connector (due to the cam install, passenger side). A reputable shop would make sure the cam sensor wiring is intact in the harness and to the pcm.
It is possible the chain jumped a link, that could cause issues. Also make sure the cam phasor bolt is tight.

It should be fixable, or at least diagnosable to identify the problem. Each DTC has a problem resolution procedure for it in the service manual. If the signal is indeed intermittent and working when the checks and testing is done, the shop would likely replace the identified part, right or wrong, and call it done. The cam sensor signal should be able to be logged and viewed, and compared to the other side's signals. That may help.