75k miles, no major services yet. Should I get some done?
#21
Wow...
1) Yes, check the owners manual for recommended service intervals
2) Not everything that needs service is in the manual (i.e Brake fluid, and PS fluid).
3) ALL fluids have a finite life so ALL fluids will need to be changed at one time or another. Simply using the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" is misleading. Everyone knows what preventative maintenance is yet they often go with the lazy or ignorant mantra.
Brake fluid - (Every 2-3 years 24K/36K miles) Brake fluid is extremely hygroscopic (Loves water), contains no filters in its system and will break down over many heat cycles. Any water in the system begins to corrode the metal parts. These metal parts oxidize and send particles into the fluid. These particles reduce the boiling point of the brake fluid and start degrading braking power (brake fade). This oxidation also starts to create issues in brake calipers, master cylinders, and ABS computers.
$30-40 bucks of brake fluid and some time to flush the old stuff out and replace with new will avoid a lot of costly issues down the road.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfluid.htm
http://www.ucx.com/documents/brakeflushing.pdf
- Power steering fluid, same thing (3yr/36K)- No filters from the factory for this system. Ever wonder what that whine when you turn the wheel is as your car gets older? It's a power steering pump on its way out probably because the fluid has never been changed. So instead of $20 in tranny fluid (for PS fluid) and some time you end up buying a $150 pump + that $20 tranny fluid and some hassles to replace it. If it's bad enough you end up with a new rack/pinion system.
http://www.mikesgarage411.com/vehicl...steering-fluid
- Auto Tranny fluid (disregard if you're talking about a manual tranny) - biggest area for major failure just due to skipping the service. $170 tranny flush every 30K miles or a pan drop with filter change every 15K can avoid a transmission rebuild. The 5r55s auto tranny in the S197 is known to be fickle and problematic when service is skipped or the interval is made longer than what Ford Recommends. All tranny fluids are very temperature sensitive.
http://tomdwyer.com/wp-content/uploa...Newsletter.pdf
http://www.transmasterstransmissions...nsmission.html
A lot of this stuff is common knowledge but people ignore or neglect it because they don't want to spend the few bucks on fluids and some time. Instead they skip it and end up paying for it later, then bitching and blaming the car for the problem or bemoaning their problems. Ounce of prevention saves a pound of suffering later. /rant
Edit: fuel injectors do not need servicing unless there is a problem. That one is true. The problems can mostly be avoided by ...preventative maintenance replacement of the fuel filter at recommended intervals. The servicing your mechanic is talking about is simply taking a concentrated version of the detergents already present in gasoline these days and running it directly through the fuel rail. Having worked in a shop for a few years, it's snake oil. The below video is just for reference but shows a common procedure for this "injector service". There are a few variations but they all work through the fuel rail.
If a modern car with modern fuel has a clogged fuel injector(s) you can feel it or see it in a diagnostic scope or the spray pattern. Not to mention a shop that claims a problem with a fuel injector should be able to show it to you in some way. If they can't, skip the "service" and either get a second opinion or do a treatment yourself.
1) Yes, check the owners manual for recommended service intervals
2) Not everything that needs service is in the manual (i.e Brake fluid, and PS fluid).
3) ALL fluids have a finite life so ALL fluids will need to be changed at one time or another. Simply using the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" is misleading. Everyone knows what preventative maintenance is yet they often go with the lazy or ignorant mantra.
Brake fluid - (Every 2-3 years 24K/36K miles) Brake fluid is extremely hygroscopic (Loves water), contains no filters in its system and will break down over many heat cycles. Any water in the system begins to corrode the metal parts. These metal parts oxidize and send particles into the fluid. These particles reduce the boiling point of the brake fluid and start degrading braking power (brake fade). This oxidation also starts to create issues in brake calipers, master cylinders, and ABS computers.
$30-40 bucks of brake fluid and some time to flush the old stuff out and replace with new will avoid a lot of costly issues down the road.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/bfluid.htm
http://www.ucx.com/documents/brakeflushing.pdf
- Power steering fluid, same thing (3yr/36K)- No filters from the factory for this system. Ever wonder what that whine when you turn the wheel is as your car gets older? It's a power steering pump on its way out probably because the fluid has never been changed. So instead of $20 in tranny fluid (for PS fluid) and some time you end up buying a $150 pump + that $20 tranny fluid and some hassles to replace it. If it's bad enough you end up with a new rack/pinion system.
http://www.mikesgarage411.com/vehicl...steering-fluid
- Auto Tranny fluid (disregard if you're talking about a manual tranny) - biggest area for major failure just due to skipping the service. $170 tranny flush every 30K miles or a pan drop with filter change every 15K can avoid a transmission rebuild. The 5r55s auto tranny in the S197 is known to be fickle and problematic when service is skipped or the interval is made longer than what Ford Recommends. All tranny fluids are very temperature sensitive.
http://tomdwyer.com/wp-content/uploa...Newsletter.pdf
http://www.transmasterstransmissions...nsmission.html
A lot of this stuff is common knowledge but people ignore or neglect it because they don't want to spend the few bucks on fluids and some time. Instead they skip it and end up paying for it later, then bitching and blaming the car for the problem or bemoaning their problems. Ounce of prevention saves a pound of suffering later. /rant
Edit: fuel injectors do not need servicing unless there is a problem. That one is true. The problems can mostly be avoided by ...preventative maintenance replacement of the fuel filter at recommended intervals. The servicing your mechanic is talking about is simply taking a concentrated version of the detergents already present in gasoline these days and running it directly through the fuel rail. Having worked in a shop for a few years, it's snake oil. The below video is just for reference but shows a common procedure for this "injector service". There are a few variations but they all work through the fuel rail.
If a modern car with modern fuel has a clogged fuel injector(s) you can feel it or see it in a diagnostic scope or the spray pattern. Not to mention a shop that claims a problem with a fuel injector should be able to show it to you in some way. If they can't, skip the "service" and either get a second opinion or do a treatment yourself.
Last edited by Derf00; 12-29-2014 at 12:37 PM.
#22
Nuke I have a question? -fuel injector replacement/service Shame on anyone that hasn't been adding fuel system cleaner at every oil change or 10k miles since day one. If not, then go ahead and bite that bullet.
Hey Nuke what product you using for this? I don't do this unless I use Seafoam occasionally what are you using?
Hey Nuke what product you using for this? I don't do this unless I use Seafoam occasionally what are you using?
#23
Really! Sounds like you don't like Seafoam or other additives? I swear by Seafoam in small engines I have had numerous cases when they were gummed up and not running well and Seafoam made a huge improved difference. I just did't know about the Mustang motor.
#24
fresh gas would have done the same thing. Seafoam is a blend of a light oil, paint thinner (naphtha/mineral spirits,) and isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. There's nothing magic about it. Any petroleum solvent can "de-gum" an engine.
#25
The entire wall of fuel additives at stores is one of the biggest rip offs of the century.
#28
I have 98,000 miles on my 2006 GT. Runs just fine, doing regular oil changes. Replaced serpentine belt recently. The only injector problem occurred, mysteriously, following repairs done at a dealership, after being rear-ended by a pickup truck. Couldn't even get it out of the parking lot...but it was just "an odd coincidence"! $700 later, it ran fine for the next 75,000 miles. I trust no dealerships, and very few mechanics. No way would I pay $900, if the car is running well.
#29
Our company (along with others) make fuel additives that do exactly what the bottle claims they do, if not more.
Last edited by STA-BILŽ; 01-08-2015 at 02:57 PM. Reason: error