Turbo questions?
08-23-2008, 06:02 PM
#17
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Regina Beach, Sask
Posts: 9,991
If I was doing this I would get the head ported, intake ported, bigger valves, better cam (bo-port stage 1.5) bobs log, 5.0 TB, power stroke FMIC, #75 LPH injectors, J3 chip, HX35, stage 3+ spec or a 5.0 clutch and flywheel. Boost, AFPR, 255 LPH HP fuel pump, 3/5-4" exhaust, 3.55 rear gears, etc etc
Around $4000-$6000 I would imagine
Around $4000-$6000 I would imagine
08-23-2008, 09:13 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: IL and KY
Posts: 227
You could get a header and 3 inch exhaust for under $700. The holset turbos can range anywhere from 150-450, depending on where you get them and their condition. The stock brown top 35# injectors will get you to about 300 hp but you could get the J3 with some 553 injectors and a mass air kit or go to another engine management kit that eliminates the use of air meters. You will definitely need a wideband o2 sensor when you start changing injectors and stuff.
A front mount intercooler will most likely need to be installed to keep temps. down.
A stronger rear end with better gears will help on the strip. The one legger 7.5 rear will only take so much.
Get the better fuel pump to supply the injectors.
You can attempt to rebuild the turbo yourself but as we found out with mine, the bearing journals get oversized and the standard replacement bearings are no good. The shop will be able to accurately measure the clearances to ensure the right fitment.
A bypass valve will help out a lot to keep the turbo from getting damaged.
A front mount intercooler will most likely need to be installed to keep temps. down.
A stronger rear end with better gears will help on the strip. The one legger 7.5 rear will only take so much.
Get the better fuel pump to supply the injectors.
You can attempt to rebuild the turbo yourself but as we found out with mine, the bearing journals get oversized and the standard replacement bearings are no good. The shop will be able to accurately measure the clearances to ensure the right fitment.
A bypass valve will help out a lot to keep the turbo from getting damaged.
08-24-2008, 03:02 AM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nevada
Posts: 443
for 4-6 grand i could build a nasty 302... but still be like everyone else around reno with a 5.0... with all that setup will it still be good on the street? what kinda numbers can i get with just upgrading to a little bit bigger turbo and fuel injectors? ima get the crank undersized so its all good... the block i should beable to get ready without payng someone...
08-24-2008, 03:47 AM
#20
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 3,451
Those bolts usually always break. The only way I've found around it was to heat up the exhaust housing with a cutting torch first, then try to take them out. Without doing that I've only had one exhaust housing that didn't break any bolts.
The garrett center cartridge is very rebuildable. I haven't done an ihi, so I couldn't tell you on them. You'll need two tools, a vernier caliper to measure the turbine shaft diameter to get the correct size bearings & a tool to hold the inducer section of the fins on the turbine. Do NOT try to grab the thing at the end of the turbine that looks like a weird wrench might fit on, that is a balance. You can make the tool to hold the fins with a 2x4 board; use a holesaw the size of the exducer to cut a hole in the 2x4, then use either a hand saw or whatever you have to cut slits in the board for the fins to slide in. If you need I can show you a picture of one I made long ago.
If your turbine & compressor aren't mangled you can just get a cheap rebuild kit to replace the o-rings, seal, & bearings. I order mine from g-pop shop for around $50. The seal in your turbo should be a 4 piece carbon type, I don't believe garrett switched until late 80's/early 90's, either way it's best to take apart first to see. You have to get the shaft diameter anyway.
As for shaft play I rebuild all of the used turbos I get before using them on a kit, whether they need it badly or not for reliability purposes. I don't consider them bad until there's enough side to side play to touch the fins on the compressor or turbine housing. front to back play I'm very picky about so any & I consider in need of rebuild, a very very small amount i'll let slide.
Btw, are you sure the wastegate is stuck? They generally are very very hard to pull out & they are pretty reliable in terms of durability. try putting the wastegate canister between your feet & pulling the wastegate rod with 2 hands
7.5" rear is fine providing you don't put wide tires & do many high rpm launches. My friend is running a 7.5" on his supercharged 306 mustang with a little over 400whp. But he also is running i believe 235's on the back.
I wouldn't spend that much if you're trying to go with the cheapest 12 sec car. I run 12's with my '89 GT & I don't even have $1000 into it & I still get around 25mpg granted you're at a higher altitude. 2.3t's can be built fast cheap, but it depends on where you get your parts from... My 5.0 for example was built using almost everything used or from junkyard cars. The 2.3 can be built the same way, junkyard/diy mods. But honestly I prefer driving the 2.3t over the 5.0 because it is more street friendly, it takes off smoother, the idle isn't choppy, it's fairly quiet (I hate loud cars).
Check this guys build out http://www.msvorinich.itgo.com/ A pretty quick car for pretty cheap
The garrett center cartridge is very rebuildable. I haven't done an ihi, so I couldn't tell you on them. You'll need two tools, a vernier caliper to measure the turbine shaft diameter to get the correct size bearings & a tool to hold the inducer section of the fins on the turbine. Do NOT try to grab the thing at the end of the turbine that looks like a weird wrench might fit on, that is a balance. You can make the tool to hold the fins with a 2x4 board; use a holesaw the size of the exducer to cut a hole in the 2x4, then use either a hand saw or whatever you have to cut slits in the board for the fins to slide in. If you need I can show you a picture of one I made long ago.
If your turbine & compressor aren't mangled you can just get a cheap rebuild kit to replace the o-rings, seal, & bearings. I order mine from g-pop shop for around $50. The seal in your turbo should be a 4 piece carbon type, I don't believe garrett switched until late 80's/early 90's, either way it's best to take apart first to see. You have to get the shaft diameter anyway.
As for shaft play I rebuild all of the used turbos I get before using them on a kit, whether they need it badly or not for reliability purposes. I don't consider them bad until there's enough side to side play to touch the fins on the compressor or turbine housing. front to back play I'm very picky about so any & I consider in need of rebuild, a very very small amount i'll let slide.
Btw, are you sure the wastegate is stuck? They generally are very very hard to pull out & they are pretty reliable in terms of durability. try putting the wastegate canister between your feet & pulling the wastegate rod with 2 hands
7.5" rear is fine providing you don't put wide tires & do many high rpm launches. My friend is running a 7.5" on his supercharged 306 mustang with a little over 400whp. But he also is running i believe 235's on the back.
I wouldn't spend that much if you're trying to go with the cheapest 12 sec car. I run 12's with my '89 GT & I don't even have $1000 into it & I still get around 25mpg granted you're at a higher altitude. 2.3t's can be built fast cheap, but it depends on where you get your parts from... My 5.0 for example was built using almost everything used or from junkyard cars. The 2.3 can be built the same way, junkyard/diy mods. But honestly I prefer driving the 2.3t over the 5.0 because it is more street friendly, it takes off smoother, the idle isn't choppy, it's fairly quiet (I hate loud cars).
Check this guys build out http://www.msvorinich.itgo.com/ A pretty quick car for pretty cheap
Last edited by FoxGT; 08-24-2008 at 04:07 AM.