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4 Cylinder NA and Turbo This section is for questions pertaining to stock or modified 4 cylinders, including the performance 2.3L applications

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Old 10-13-2008, 05:19 PM   #1
sleeper_inc
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Default How to swap in a manaul T5 transmission *56K shoots itself*

Ok guys, after my A4LD took a **** on me, I decided I'd go manual...

I bought my T5 from a tow yard for $250 with everything that I wanted off the car.

So here's the specs on the T5

Rebuilt less than 30,000kms ago (around 18,000 miles)
has 3.97 1st gear... other wise stock

I had the flywheel re-surfaced for $50 and trust me, you should all get it done by a shop and not by yourself... It turns out so much better.

Bought a stock replacement clutch kit for a 1988 Mustang 2.3 with an ungraded pressure plate (has 8 extra fingers compared to stock)

Also to give you some helpfull tips, a 2.3 N/A flywheel is made for a 8.5" clutch, SVO flywheel is made for a 8.75" clutch, Merkur flywheel is made for a 9" clutch and the Turbo coupes flywheel is made for 9.25" clutch. a flywheel made for a 8.5" clutch wont work with a 8.75" clutch, and a 9" wont work with a 9.25" clutch soTHEY DO NOT INTERCHANGE!

I'm running a 8.5" clutch and it's holding the power good, but if you're going to have loads of power than I would tell you to grab a TC flywheel and run a 9.25" clutch or a 5.0 clutch with some mods.


This swap will work with almost any fox body ford, you may have to change a few things but it should still follow the same principle.

Cost
Transmission $250
Fly wheel resurfacing $50
Clutch kit $200
Transmission fluid $15

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This is what your shifter should look like

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Remove the robber outlining, this can be thrown away or used to throw at someone who's in your way

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Remove the plastic covering around the shifter to get at the bolts

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4 8mm bolts holding the gear indicator in place. I removed mine (see below) to get better access to the bolts

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This is a connection for your light to show you your gear at night...
Also there are 2 bolts you'll have to remove here

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And here

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You'll have to use a 8mm wrench to get the bolts out from under the dash

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You'll then have to disconnect the shifter linkage with a 13mm wrench to remove the shifter

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It'll take some time but you can get the whole shifter housing out without taking the consul out

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Next remove your exhaust, raise your car and support it properly

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Use a block of wood between the transmission and the jack so you don't punch a hole in it causing transmission fluid to pour all over you

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Next remove your driveshaft. If you don't not have a impact like I did, use a screw driver to keep the pinion from turning on you (id did this as well and yes it dose work

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Auto and manual driveshaft comparison... Do you see why the auto one on the 2.3 wont work now??

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Make sure to bag and tag all your bolts or else you'll lose them (I stopped and lost 3 bolts... damnit!)

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Next is the speedometer and VSS connection on the transmission
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1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, built 2.3 turbo with LOTS of goodies! now I gotta find a rear end and a ps/pump XD

1989 Ranger STX 4x4
2.9L auto
274,xxx km's
tinted windows, 2 - 12" kicker comps with a 400.1X at 500watts

Last edited by sleeper_inc; 10-13-2008 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 10-13-2008, 05:36 PM   #2
sleeper_inc
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Default

Click the image to open in full size.
Remove the VSS/speedometer gear with a 10mm wrench

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It's out!!

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This is the CCL switch on the A4LD's. Driverside just behind the bellhousing

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This is the only 17mm bolt that has to be removed, the rest that hold the transmission to the engine are 13mm

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3 bots holding the starter

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Disconnected the battery, and the transmission fluid lines (make sure to have a drain pan underneath (13mm or 12mm)

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Cut transmission lines

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Auto crossmember held in by the mounts on the frame, and the mounts are held on by one bolt and nut each

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Starter removed, and you can see the converter bolts which are 15mm. Use a wrench and a long pole to keep the engine from turning over when you remove the converter bolts

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Remove the kick down cable

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Remove the crossmember, WHILE THE TRANSMISSION IS SUPPORTED by the jack and pull the transmission out. This transmission is full of FAILURE!

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With the auto out, remove the flex plate remembering to have the engine locked down with a wrench and a pole. Use a breaker bar or a torque qrench to remove the bolts (15mm)

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Now you can see if the seal is leaking, mine was (as you can see) so I replaced with the pictures below

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Use a flat head and a hammer to get into the seal and pry it out

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seal coming out

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Old seal on the left and new on the right

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seals out

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Lube the new seal with motor oil so it wont tare on first fire up and installs easier
__________________
1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, built 2.3 turbo with LOTS of goodies! now I gotta find a rear end and a ps/pump XD

1989 Ranger STX 4x4
2.9L auto
274,xxx km's
tinted windows, 2 - 12" kicker comps with a 400.1X at 500watts
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Old 10-13-2008, 05:54 PM   #3
sleeper_inc
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Default

Click the image to open in full size.
Oil seal ready to be pushed in

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Using a hammer to drive the seal into place

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Use thread locker on the fly wheel bolts to stop them from backing out on you... This thing weighs 20lbs after getting it resurfaced

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Manual bolt on to, auto on the bottom... You see why you need to grab them before you do the swap?

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Dirty fly wheel installed

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Torquing the fly wheel down to 85ft lbs (I don't want this bitch to get lose!)

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There is a o-ring seal you want pointing towards the transmission

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Time to clean the fly wheel with acetone to get all the grease and oil off the fly wheel so the clutch wont slip

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ooooooo clean fly wheel

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Use a long socket and a hammer to knock the pilot bearing into position

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See the alignment tool? USE IT!

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Not so hard? was it

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This is what you use the alignment tool for... It saves you alot of time and headache

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Pressure plate installed with the bolts torqued to 40ft lbs

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Lube the splines on the clutch with the supplied lube

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New throw out bearing installed
__________________
1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, built 2.3 turbo with LOTS of goodies! now I gotta find a rear end and a ps/pump XD

1989 Ranger STX 4x4
2.9L auto
274,xxx km's
tinted windows, 2 - 12" kicker comps with a 400.1X at 500watts

Last edited by sleeper_inc; 10-13-2008 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 10-13-2008, 06:18 PM   #4
sleeper_inc
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Click the image to open in full size.
Shifter in it's place

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Modded auto crossmember

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Added 2 holes and spacers, works perfect

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Modded return line, works fine

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Remove all the covering to get to the bracing

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Remove this so you can drop the steering column and remove the pedals easier

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Remove the connections on the column to make removal easier

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Remove the bolts on the column supports to remove the hood release and drop the column down

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Removing the seat makes this swap a TON easier

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All the connections removed and steering column ready to be removed

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Remove this bolt and pull the steering column if you want it removed, I kept mine in because my bolt was seized on

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These two bolts (and the ones below) hold the brake booster in place, they must be removed (15mm)

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Remove
__________________
1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, built 2.3 turbo with LOTS of goodies! now I gotta find a rear end and a ps/pump XD

1989 Ranger STX 4x4
2.9L auto
274,xxx km's
tinted windows, 2 - 12" kicker comps with a 400.1X at 500watts
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Old 10-13-2008, 06:29 PM   #5
sleeper_inc
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Default

Click the image to open in full size.
Remove

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Use a long extension to get at the bolts

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Bolts removed, ready for the booster to be pulled forward

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Use the crow bar to forced the brake booster forward to pull the studs forward

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Remove the BSS(?) and the brake light switch, they should slide right off after the lock pin is removed

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More bolts on top (ohhh goody)

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This big bolt is a PITA to remove

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Pedals ready to be removed

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Auto Vs. Manual pedals

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The white outlines need to be cut out to make it fit easier

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Remove the vacuum tree

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Where the speedometer cable goes through the fire wall is where the clutch cable goes through.
__________________
1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, built 2.3 turbo with LOTS of goodies! now I gotta find a rear end and a ps/pump XD

1989 Ranger STX 4x4
2.9L auto
274,xxx km's
tinted windows, 2 - 12" kicker comps with a 400.1X at 500watts
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Old 10-13-2008, 06:36 PM   #6
sleeper_inc
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Click the image to open in full size.
Left - speedometer cable through the fire wall
right - clutch cable almost installed, just need to put a bolt in that hole

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These cables are in the auto cars right at the back of the fire wall near the wiring harness. These are the clutch safty switch

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They go here

The rest is reverse. The only thing that you would need to do differently is the mounting location of the speedometer cable and the clutch cable.

If you use the auto crossmember then you'll have to drill 2 new holes and use spacers since its going to have to be used in the manual location because it has to be moved back. The manual mounts are wider than the auto mounts, hence the spacers.
__________________
1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, built 2.3 turbo with LOTS of goodies! now I gotta find a rear end and a ps/pump XD

1989 Ranger STX 4x4
2.9L auto
274,xxx km's
tinted windows, 2 - 12" kicker comps with a 400.1X at 500watts
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Old 10-13-2008, 07:47 PM   #7
mg man 75
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Awesome Sleeper. Didn't know differant in TC setup. If know it could have got one of these setup this weekend. I didn't need it so didn't both. Cluch pedals bellhousing everything there. Learn something everyday.
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Old 10-13-2008, 08:34 PM   #8
Stang2.3
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SICK!!! Sounds like you had a blast
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Old 10-13-2008, 09:36 PM   #9
sleeper_inc
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Your welcome guys, I had issues finding a good how to so I got as many pictures as I thought it would need

Also the mustang has no grip in 1st at all... It's a whole new animal now
__________________
1988 Mustang LX
Ex 2.3 N/A car, built 2.3 turbo with LOTS of goodies! now I gotta find a rear end and a ps/pump XD

1989 Ranger STX 4x4
2.9L auto
274,xxx km's
tinted windows, 2 - 12" kicker comps with a 400.1X at 500watts
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Old 10-14-2008, 01:08 PM   #10
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Manuals are a whole lot more fun! can't launch a Auto like you can a Manual (at least stock for stock lol)
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Old 10-14-2008, 01:08 PM
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