Who's done the 2.3t swap?
07-02-2009, 09:22 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: north carolina
Posts: 159
Bellhousing for 2.3 all same. Some turbocoupe have hydralic clutch not sure on yours. You can use the starter but the 93 has the small starter which most are changing to. The swap on the 86 turbo coupe wiring is a little differant than stinger or other website. The vam pins differant. I think sleeper-inc has difference in the tech info. If I can provide. Just compare the vam wiring between these 2 diagrams. the 87-88. Stinger uses.
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/88Thunderbird.pdf
And the 86
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference...hunderbird.pdf
May want to find a 87-88 computer and large vane. The stock 86 is good for 145 hp and 88 is 175 plus more with minor modification. Mine started out with a 86 computer and wiring. If need info just ask. Just look at my photobucket and will see my first install. Maurice
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference/88Thunderbird.pdf
And the 86
http://www.rothfam.com/svo/reference...hunderbird.pdf
May want to find a 87-88 computer and large vane. The stock 86 is good for 145 hp and 88 is 175 plus more with minor modification. Mine started out with a 86 computer and wiring. If need info just ask. Just look at my photobucket and will see my first install. Maurice
07-03-2009, 08:22 PM
#12
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,171
Awesome solves that problem. Stinger site should wire like he posted with large vam and LA3. The 86 turbo is the better of the turbo. It has the Garrett instead of the IHI in the 87-88 model. You will need if haven't already got it the hose from the big vam to the turbo. Make sure it has a wire spring in it. The turbo can pull air hard enough to collapse the hose and cause problem. The one on the 86 is smaller on the vam end. PS great prices. One repinning just count the wires real careful it is easy to miscount. Maurice
07-03-2009, 08:37 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: north carolina
Posts: 159
Awesome solves that problem. Stinger site should wire like he posted with large vam and LA3. The 86 turbo is the better of the turbo. It has the Garrett instead of the IHI in the 87-88 model. You will need if haven't already got it the hose from the big vam to the turbo. Make sure it has a wire spring in it. The turbo can pull air hard enough to collapse the hose and cause problem. The one on the 86 is smaller on the vam end. PS great prices. One repinning just count the wires real careful it is easy to miscount. Maurice
07-04-2009, 11:29 AM
#14
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,171
I wouldn't the vibration of the motor will make that flapper move and mess with you.
Stock vam mount will mount in the mustang in stock location. That is where I would start. Can always change after getting it running. No use adding variable on running right off the bat. On the intercooler look at my video. Cheap e-bay intercooler and "U" bend exhaust pipe cut and welded. Just make sure to add welded ridge on end to prevent hose blowing off. I would get running first no intercooler and running good. Keep boost low because do need intercooler with big vam and la3. Once all this is right then add intercooler. Make sure to test all intercooler pipe. I made up this homemade device to do it with. Pressure test with no more than 10psi. Hose can blow off and hurt I know.
air regulator and some hose and gauge.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...5/100_5699.jpg
While at it with engine out. Think about porting the exhaust manifold if it has e-6 on casting if not leave it alone. You be luck if not cracke if not e-6
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/530871/50
Ps look over this site real good. He does good writeups. And gives real good advice. He is on this forum . Maurice
Stock vam mount will mount in the mustang in stock location. That is where I would start. Can always change after getting it running. No use adding variable on running right off the bat. On the intercooler look at my video. Cheap e-bay intercooler and "U" bend exhaust pipe cut and welded. Just make sure to add welded ridge on end to prevent hose blowing off. I would get running first no intercooler and running good. Keep boost low because do need intercooler with big vam and la3. Once all this is right then add intercooler. Make sure to test all intercooler pipe. I made up this homemade device to do it with. Pressure test with no more than 10psi. Hose can blow off and hurt I know.
air regulator and some hose and gauge.
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...5/100_5699.jpg
While at it with engine out. Think about porting the exhaust manifold if it has e-6 on casting if not leave it alone. You be luck if not cracke if not e-6
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/530871/50
Ps look over this site real good. He does good writeups. And gives real good advice. He is on this forum . Maurice
07-15-2009, 10:17 AM
#19
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: United States
Posts: 3,451
3x for me.
Once in my notch, one in a friends car, & the most recent the ranger. The first two were repins.
The last (ranger) I built the wiring harness from scratch along with megasquirt II 3.0 (second ms) which I bought unassembled & put together myself along with a 4bar map. Put in some violet led's, wasn't much for the red ones. I did away with the key switch in favor of toggles, which are still on cardboard until I can make a dash :P, I'm ditching the factory dash for a fibreglass one when I can get time to build it. Hopefully pretty soon.
The head has been ported, block bored .030, 3" exhaust, AEM 6in1 wideband.
The turbo is a 12cm hx35 (exhaust housing machined for external gate). Intercooler 33"x22"x3" core from a semi; as i'm sure you can tell the body had to be modified to fit it. The frame rails had to be cut to let it drop low enough, end tanks had to be modified, then the body got metal added to it to brace it back from the material taken out. The top brace (not in picture) is bolted on to be removed if the engine needs pulled or worked on. I don't have an up to date picture of the wiring. I used the factory body harness going to fuel tank/rear lights/front lights & turn signals. The rest was made using 4 relays; 12v toggle on (power for eec relay/radio/push button start/interior 12v accessory supply), eec relay (power for sensors/fuel pump relay), fuel pump relay (fuel pump/HEGO), & the electric fan relay. Here are some pics, not completely up to date.
Can possibly get some more up to date ones soon. I had some more on my laptop, but a recent storm claimed it. I rebuilt the engine before putting it in, new bearings, gaskets, rings.
Once in my notch, one in a friends car, & the most recent the ranger. The first two were repins.
The last (ranger) I built the wiring harness from scratch along with megasquirt II 3.0 (second ms) which I bought unassembled & put together myself along with a 4bar map. Put in some violet led's, wasn't much for the red ones. I did away with the key switch in favor of toggles, which are still on cardboard until I can make a dash :P, I'm ditching the factory dash for a fibreglass one when I can get time to build it. Hopefully pretty soon.
The head has been ported, block bored .030, 3" exhaust, AEM 6in1 wideband.
The turbo is a 12cm hx35 (exhaust housing machined for external gate). Intercooler 33"x22"x3" core from a semi; as i'm sure you can tell the body had to be modified to fit it. The frame rails had to be cut to let it drop low enough, end tanks had to be modified, then the body got metal added to it to brace it back from the material taken out. The top brace (not in picture) is bolted on to be removed if the engine needs pulled or worked on. I don't have an up to date picture of the wiring. I used the factory body harness going to fuel tank/rear lights/front lights & turn signals. The rest was made using 4 relays; 12v toggle on (power for eec relay/radio/push button start/interior 12v accessory supply), eec relay (power for sensors/fuel pump relay), fuel pump relay (fuel pump/HEGO), & the electric fan relay. Here are some pics, not completely up to date.
Can possibly get some more up to date ones soon. I had some more on my laptop, but a recent storm claimed it. I rebuilt the engine before putting it in, new bearings, gaskets, rings.
Last edited by FoxGT; 07-15-2009 at 10:27 AM.