mypony89

How did you know that the safety neutral switch wasn't hooked up or bypassed. You're right about it and I plan on getting the key switch replaced. I worked on it yesterday, changing oil, fuel filter, puting dielectric grease on the connectors and cleaning up the salt-pepper connectors. I went over all the ground I could find as well. Ieven put on a new mas. I wasn't able to use the sefoam because for some reason, the brake pump is not where its supposed to be and I couldn't find it before it got dark. I'm going to call the people who put in the engine and see where they hid it. It runs much better and it doesn't "seem" to have the problem as bad now but whenever I first start it up and really punch it it will still bog down even if it's been running for a while. However thanks to all the help everyone has given it runs soooo much better.

88lx5.0

lol i was the one with the problem with the baffle in the gas tank , it took me 2 months to figure that out we tryed everything possible except the gas tank .

mypony89

I was reading a link one of you posted about the EEC and started thinking back to this problem. Tell me what you all think about this line of thought. I agree with Joel5.0 about it being electrical especially since I can turn it off after a while and then turn it back on and it will work fine. Do you all think the problem could be something to do with the TPS since it is what is calling all the shots to the EEC about how fast to go etc? Is the TPS telling the EEC that the throttle isn't pushed down as much as it really is but the intake has more air in it than the EEC thinks its supposed to have to be have. Like I say, I'm just learning about the EEC and had this thought come to mind. Let me know what you think. Thanks

Joel5.0

If you run a self-test (KOEO & KOER), and no TPS related codes are logged (23, 53, 63)....it is within specs for the ECM to do its job. Intermittent problems like yours, require that the testing takes place when the condition/symptom is present......anything else would be a guess, and trust me.....the guessing game could get expensive....if you want to really eliminate the TPS as a possibility, hook a voltmeter to the signal wire at the ECM connector, and monitor its signal, that way you'll see what the ECM is working with all the time.....

nickr182002

Try MAF sensor. I know if those go bad cars run like ***. Could also be something as simple as a plug wire. If the metal inside the boot breaks loose, the spark will not always be strong enough and will cause a misfire. I had this on my other car and it was doing the same thing. Even the whole turn off for a minute thing worked for me. Like alot of ppl have said, try the simple things first. I will bet that it is more than likely a sensor.